1984 Ur-quattro 20vt, 336whp 380 torques, 6-speed

[ralleyquattro]

Bit of an update.
Swapped the rear diff to 4.11, (thanks to Steve O for a minty diff).
Installed the prop shaft, because I moved the engine as far back as possible it did not require a spacer.
The CVs bolted up nicely with lots of fore and aft play.
Brakes are bled and done, clutch same same.
Managed to get the centre console in.. interior is looking better and better.
Installed the starter (thanks Gabriel!).
Started to rough in the rad, I'll have a bit of fun because the upper front support is now in the way of the intake/throttle body... so another way to fix that point in in order.
Still haven't decided on what to do re. PCV venting. Can or stock system?

Next I'll focus on the dash and the diff lock panel (MB/RR style with push button rather than a rotary switch).

Hope to have Mike and Craig over next Sunday so they can help me turn this beast around (my driveway is a bit steep).

Cheers

[glibobbo21]

this is all very tight... any concerns when the engine and tranny move in their mounts?

Well... given these are 034 mounts there should be very little movement..

We'll find out soon enough.

Cheers

If theyre not the MS ones you def need to weld spots where they are crimped, because they WILL come apart if you drive hard. They tack weld all of them now, but I suggest some "meaty beads".

[Hank]

Even Meaty beads lifted mine. I weld mine 100% around the perimeter of the crimp now. I suggest the same. Stitch them in inch incriments and drop in water as to not burn the rubba

[ralleyquattro]

Are you guys using the poly snub nose mounts? If so, why would the main mounts see that much movement?

[Hank]

No, but that is sortof the point of the mounts. They "practically solid"... ie, they should keep the engine solid from any movement. The stiffer rubber does, but the crimp is not up to snuff. If I wanted to limit movement with a snub, I would keep the mounts stock.

If the crimp is welded, the mount functions as intended.

[ralleyquattro]

I have a set of stock motor mounts and was planning on using the poly snub nose, I guess that will work as well. Save me from having to get the 034 mounts..

[Hank]

The snub will stop vertical movement, but not front to back movement. Shifting gets lots smoother when that movement is eliminated. For this reason the 034 mounts are so nice. They secure the car with very little vibration noise.

[ralleyquattro]

Thanks for the input. Will see if I can afford it.. :(
Still saving my pennies for a GT3071...

[ralleyquattro]

Update, the GT3071r is in the house..

Thank you 034!

Pics tonight.

[84urq20v]

I just PM'd Hank - but I'm curious about an O1E solution if you don't move the motor back to compensate for the shorter O1E box. I'm thinking the shift linkage you are using will be about 15mm too short...

[ralleyquattro]

Linkage has a joint in the middle just like the Ur-q so there is at least 20-25mm of adjustment fore and aft.
The linkage is not your problem. Main driveshaft and OEM RS2 tranny mounts are

Cheers

[Dave]

main shaft seems like an easy fix, you could use the one from a b3 90 or coupe. since we switch to the shorter 4k shaft to run an 01e, seems like you could swap in the longer b3 shaft.

[Hank]

Also remember that hte shifter arm is not located in the same location on the 01e. iT is further forward on the 01e, thus canceling the scoot back.

[ralleyquattro]

main shaft seems like an easy fix, you could use the one from a b3 90 or coupe. since we switch to the shorter 4k shaft to run an 01e, seems like you could swap in the longer b3 shaft.

What is the length difference between 01A and 01E?

Thanks
Martin

[Dave]

01e is an almost an inch longer

[ralleyquattro]

the precise difference between 016 and 01E is 15mm (as per bloke in UK who did it).
I had 016 and 01E side by side and it looked a bit less but I failed to measure exactly.
1" is about 25.4mm so the typ 89 shaft would probably end up being too long.

Cheers

[Dave]

well in this article:
http://www.quattro.ca/6%20speed%20article.pdf

he machined a 15mm spacer.

[ralleyquattro]

That's the bloke I mentioned..

But that is going from 016 to 01E.
If I use a typ 89 propshaft (which is 25mm longer) that makes it 10mm too long.

So, either make a spacer or move the assembly back 15mm.
Typ 89 propshaft does not look like an option.

[Hank]

The 15mm spacer does! Or just man up and move everything else back!

[84urq20v]

I understand a 15mm driveshaft spacer and slotted custom tranny mounts are part of the solution, no?

[ralleyquattro]

Choose one option only.

- 15mm spacer for the propshaft.
- Move engine and transmission back 15mm.

BTW I did not need to slot the OEM RS2 mounts, I guess they are designed to work with the OEM transmission/engine spacer and my application does not require it.
Only mounts required slotting were the engine mounts.

HTH

[my2000apb]

martin, do you have a pic of the s2 engine mount arm that mounts the aux h20 pump

[ralleyquattro]

Sorry, I don't, but the alloy mount itself is exactly the same as 7A. In the S2 the steel bracket bolts onto the mount (two bolts on each side).

Here is a pic on S2 forum.



HTH

[ralleyquattro]

Long overdue pics of progress (at least some of it).

Front brakes all done! SQ calipers and S4TT rotors turned down to 300mm and re-balanced.



This is where I am thinking of placing the coils... any comments?



Turbo mounted to see how it looks... the downpipe is going to be tight!







More and more to come.

[Hank]

Not that it matters much, but the rs2 mount will only allow for about 10mm of movement rearward. They do need to be slotted to get the full 15mm.