K update. Turns out 2 of the wgfv lines were reversed. Turns out I had the bottom Connection going to the igloo and the top going to the intake manifold. That should be reversed
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
Is your wastegate diaphragm in good shape? How about the bottom hose on the wastegate? It should connect to a metal pipe that is connected to the chamber on the intake manifold that goes to the idle stabilizer valve. This chamber bypasses the throttle body.
Also, make sure your boost signal hose to the ecu is connected to the intake manifold and not upstream of it or on the intake manifold chamber that goes to the idle stabilizer valve. Make sure your boost gauge is plumbed the same way.
The 1.8 bar spring would not be your problem unless you have a stock chip.
That chip should control boost to 1.95 bar and the fuel cutout should be a little bit above 2.2 bar. If the plumbing doesn't fix it then Just let Ben know, he will probably just send you another chip. Ben is a good guy, I had a different problem with mine and he hooked me up right away.
Thanks. Now 1 more question on that. Do I plumb the excess air AFTER the CIS metering plate? Or do I need to tap it into the airbox before the plate? I was just going to plumb it into the 1/2" (or w/e size it is) on the side of the igloo
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
The discharge from the bypass valve should be connected in between the metering plate and the turbo. Preferably as far from the metering plate as possible in order to prevent any disturbance to it.
I believe the only reason you'd get a hard cut like that is from overboost. And if you're only hitting 1.5 bar that sounds like you're overboosting a stock ecu.
EDIT: Oh we're on a new page now. Jeeze.
-Phil 87 5ktq - 20vt 91 v8 5spd - Why? 05 S4 - Gone and very much so forgotten 14 TDI Touareg
pilihp2 wrote:I believe the only reason you'd get a hard cut like that is from overboost. And if you're only hitting 1.5 bar that sounds like you're overboosting a stock ecu.
EDIT: Oh we're on a new page now. Jeeze.
It just seems weird that its hitting 6psi, or so I guess, and cutting out. I havent hooked up the boost gauge yet but I can tell it aint hitting 17 or so.
I will say that even with a slight miss, and 6 w/e psi, its as torquey as my truck which is saying something considering my truck has around 400 ft/lbs of torque. I cant imagine what this thing is going to do with 17-18psi and no miss
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
Damn, I just gave away a good 710n. Are you sure its bad?
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)
.3 is lean. You have a vac leak close to where you are spraying the carb cleaner. That explains why it smothes out and vac goes up. An AF ratio that is closer to stoich will make an engine produce more vacuum, hence why when you introduce more fuel and it goes form lean to slightly rich you see a rise in vac. You can try what rog suggested and see if that works. One thing that can also work is taking a peice of hose (fuel line, or similar in size) and hold one end to your ear and move the other end to various places where the leak may be. When you put the end over the leak you will hear it. Engine running ofcourse. Is it possible the vac leak is at an injector or injectors?
Dan 1984 Ur quattro 1985 4000 S QUATTRO Crashed 4KQ + 40v S8 engine + tubing bender + My BFF = 1987.5 Coupe GT Special Build