Easy way to swap rear diff bushing without press?
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Jersey90TQ
Re: 1990 CQ-SEAT SWAP! I NEED HELP! WONT RECLINE!?
the stock grill looks better, but it looks much better with the chrome painted black
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
so i need to take the good regulator out of the door of the spare door, and put it into the old door. BUT HOW!? i dont understand this car as much as the typ44...
Scubadave has been a great help on the text, but i need a visual.
Scubadave has been a great help on the text, but i need a visual.
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
Unbolt it.
2005 A4 Ultrasport - K04'd, AEB head, GIAC tuned, still pokey
2001 TT 225 quattro Roadster - Stage 2+, looking for B&M shifter
2001 S4 - Tial 770R'd 3.1 stroker coming
1988 80 quattro - 4.2 powered FrankenAudi made from 13 cars and counting...
2001 TT 225 quattro Roadster - Stage 2+, looking for B&M shifter
2001 S4 - Tial 770R'd 3.1 stroker coming
1988 80 quattro - 4.2 powered FrankenAudi made from 13 cars and counting...
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
I did! I undid the three little ones in the Center. Then... I don't understand how to get it out!?
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Glug
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
After looking at that i don't see how its going to help....
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varia
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
its simple:
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Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
Ok, from start to finish from memory so I hope I do t miss something. Also keep in mind my memory sucks from working the graves, I could be wrong about a few things. It's been years since I was in my doors.
Start by lossening the three Allen bolts on the armrest. They don't come out of the assy. Then pull the upper part of the armrest out straight sliding the switch assy out of the grip. Next detach switch assy. Then unscrew the Phillips head screws holding the metal brackets the grip assy attached to. One screw on the rear of the door card as well. Pull the inside door handle lever and remove the screw inside the hole. Slide doorhandle forward about 1/4 inch to release from slots and wiggle it out of doorcard. Take a picture if you want to of how the door latch cable hooks to the handle for replacing it back together correctly. Pop clip from off of cable/handle, pop cable out of cradle and remove. At this time you should be able to slide doorcard up about an inch and out while feeding electrical through the hole. This will be harder to install as you need to feed the doorlock rod as you set it back on all the hooks and sliding it back down into its locked position. Don't forget to feed the wires back through before you do or you will be getting lots of practice taking it off and putting it back on.
You are now at the cradle assy. I can't remember if it has plastic on it or not so you will find out. Now, the doorcard has all these rubber things in all the holes for the doorcard hooks. You will want to put them back in when you reassemble for quiet and a solid feel. This is where you position the window and unbolt it from the regulator. You can unbolt the whole cradle from the outer shell of the door with the window still installed, but if you do, map out where and how many shims you take out of each bolt. Also the wiring is attached to the inner frame and you will have to deal with that as well. I'm pretty sure I remember you can leave the cradle unmolested and remove the regulator alone. This is best. So, unbolt window from regulator when you get it at the right height to access the bolts. Remove window. I'm pretty sure unmolested regulators are riveted in, so you may need to drill out the rivets to remove it. If its bolts, unbolt it. 3 on the motor, then the reg. Weasle the motor and reg out of the door and unplug motor from electrical connector. You can unbolt the motor from regulator, three screws I think.
Reassembly is just in reverse with a few exceptions. Once the motor and regulator is back in and plugged in, you will need to temporarily attach the drivers door switch and connector to set the regulator to the right hight to install the window again. Once all is bolted up before you replace the doorcard, make sure the window is adjusted to the right height so it will nest itself properly when you close the door. Careful you don't break the window by slamming the door closed with it misadjusted. It may take a few try's to get it just right. Be patient. It's only a car. No throwing tantrums! Replace the rubber thingys in all the hole/slots. Hold the doorcard up to the door and feed the wiring through. Then contort your hand and feed the lock rod just into the hole. It may help to unscrew the cap 90% to give you more length for easier install. Then seat the doorcard in all the slots and slide down. This is best accomplished with the window rolled down fyi. The rest is fairly simple and I went over it already anyway. I hope this helps you where you are stuck.
Start by lossening the three Allen bolts on the armrest. They don't come out of the assy. Then pull the upper part of the armrest out straight sliding the switch assy out of the grip. Next detach switch assy. Then unscrew the Phillips head screws holding the metal brackets the grip assy attached to. One screw on the rear of the door card as well. Pull the inside door handle lever and remove the screw inside the hole. Slide doorhandle forward about 1/4 inch to release from slots and wiggle it out of doorcard. Take a picture if you want to of how the door latch cable hooks to the handle for replacing it back together correctly. Pop clip from off of cable/handle, pop cable out of cradle and remove. At this time you should be able to slide doorcard up about an inch and out while feeding electrical through the hole. This will be harder to install as you need to feed the doorlock rod as you set it back on all the hooks and sliding it back down into its locked position. Don't forget to feed the wires back through before you do or you will be getting lots of practice taking it off and putting it back on.
You are now at the cradle assy. I can't remember if it has plastic on it or not so you will find out. Now, the doorcard has all these rubber things in all the holes for the doorcard hooks. You will want to put them back in when you reassemble for quiet and a solid feel. This is where you position the window and unbolt it from the regulator. You can unbolt the whole cradle from the outer shell of the door with the window still installed, but if you do, map out where and how many shims you take out of each bolt. Also the wiring is attached to the inner frame and you will have to deal with that as well. I'm pretty sure I remember you can leave the cradle unmolested and remove the regulator alone. This is best. So, unbolt window from regulator when you get it at the right height to access the bolts. Remove window. I'm pretty sure unmolested regulators are riveted in, so you may need to drill out the rivets to remove it. If its bolts, unbolt it. 3 on the motor, then the reg. Weasle the motor and reg out of the door and unplug motor from electrical connector. You can unbolt the motor from regulator, three screws I think.
Reassembly is just in reverse with a few exceptions. Once the motor and regulator is back in and plugged in, you will need to temporarily attach the drivers door switch and connector to set the regulator to the right hight to install the window again. Once all is bolted up before you replace the doorcard, make sure the window is adjusted to the right height so it will nest itself properly when you close the door. Careful you don't break the window by slamming the door closed with it misadjusted. It may take a few try's to get it just right. Be patient. It's only a car. No throwing tantrums! Replace the rubber thingys in all the hole/slots. Hold the doorcard up to the door and feed the wiring through. Then contort your hand and feed the lock rod just into the hole. It may help to unscrew the cap 90% to give you more length for easier install. Then seat the doorcard in all the slots and slide down. This is best accomplished with the window rolled down fyi. The rest is fairly simple and I went over it already anyway. I hope this helps you where you are stuck.
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audiPete
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
Kuma
re: Stock Speedline Wheels
I just purchased a 91 Black/Grey CQ for my sister in law...previous owner had sanded the out lips with medium grit, then finer & finer grades of sandpaper, then polished and waxed them....they look stunning. I'll be able to snap some pictures this weekend if you're interested.
re: Stock Speedline Wheels
I just purchased a 91 Black/Grey CQ for my sister in law...previous owner had sanded the out lips with medium grit, then finer & finer grades of sandpaper, then polished and waxed them....they look stunning. I'll be able to snap some pictures this weekend if you're interested.
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jaesunel
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
Does the spare door have glass in it? IF so, just take the entire assembly out of both doors (frame, glass, regulator), should be 4 bolts... put the good one on the car and you're done. Well, there will be some adjusting to get the glass to fit into the body seal, but much easier than removing just the regulator.
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
The glass is broken in the spare door.
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
Yes, bolt your glass in the spare frame. Keep shims where they belong and adjust glass hight if need be. That's your easiest avenue.
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
But the spare door is black.
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jaesunel
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
Kuma85 wrote:But the spare door is black.
When he said "frame" he didn't mean the whole door, he meant the bare metal frame that everything window related is attached to. It's held to the door shell by 4 bolts. Those 4 bolts offer adjustability to the frame so that you can get the location correct so that the glass seals against the body properly.
Take the frames off both door shells.
Remove the glass from your frame and install it into the spare frame, keeping the shims in the same locations.
Reinstall the spare frame with your glass onto your door shell and level so that the glass meets the body properly.
Reinstall door card.
Done.
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
Oooooooooh, got it. Looks like I'll have to do it after I get time during my work day. Working a new job! It's fun.
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rally3
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
For the trans fluid it is hard to beat BG Syncro Shift,
A little hard to find but works wonders on worn syncros.
http://www.bgprod.com/products/driveline.html
A little hard to find but works wonders on worn syncros.
http://www.bgprod.com/products/driveline.html
Re: 1990 CQ-Driver window regulator, need ETKA.
That's great! Thanks so much. My boss just signed on with World Pac(sp?). So maybe I can get some for a good price.
Re: 1990 CQ- Swapping doors-PITA- how do I remove mirror?
Trying to swap doors. How do I remove the mirror?
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varia
Re: 1990 CQ- Swapping doors-PITA- how do I remove mirror?
fold them towards the rear of the car.
2 alan bolts inside (later model has torx)
2 alan bolts inside (later model has torx)
Re: 1990 CQ- Swapping doors-PITA- how do I remove mirror?
It's stuck, won't trim!!!! Guh
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rally3
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varia
Re: 1990 CQ- Swapping doors-PITA- how do I remove mirror?
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1990 CQ- Swapping doors-PITA- how do I remove mirror?
When removing those bolts make sure to clean all debris from the head and have the Allen in good before going for it. I had one strip on me due to impatience and a small amount of dirt. Good luck!
- audifreakjim
- Posts: 2142
- Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:00 pm
Re: 1990 CQ- Swapping doors-PITA- how do I remove mirror?
I was just typing the same thing. Those bolts are super easy to strip.
Re: 1990 CQ- Swapping doors-PITA- how do I remove mirror?
The bolts were already stripped. I couldn't get the mirror off so I went and took the good mirror glass off and said fiddle sticks it. Got the door on now I have to put the window regulator and window in and connect all the wires. Then I have to put on my newer door car. My door arm rest is broken though....


