Alright guys, we have passed through the final revision of the 07k motor mounts for the b2/b3/c4/type44/URQ chassis. We have taken out some weight where they didn't need it, and added support where they needed it. These aluminum mounts should take 1000whp worth of abuse and not flex.
Doug- 1989 Toyota Supra 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo 5spd, 372rwhp/420wtq 22psi (stolen but recovered) 1991 Toyota Supra 19,818 Original Miles Sunroof 2004 VW Touareg (Wifey's Car) 2001 Audi A6 Quattro 4.2 (swapping 01E) 1998 Toyota Camry (Sold)
HT Motorsport wrote:Annodizing welded parts doesnt come out great. Powdercoat would be a better bet.
They will need some form of coating to stop corrosion but I figure that can be on the end users end of things.
Nice parts as ever Hank
Have you tried different rod Haydn? 4043 is terrible in anodizing apps, but 5356 does a pretty good job. A little more gray on the heat affected zone, but not bad really.
If it were me selling them, I'd leave them raw. Most of the people who put their hands on these will finish them the way they see fit. For the few people that may want them anodized, it seems like the upfront cost and potential 'on the shelf' time on your end may not be worth the slight profit margin on the anodization process. I've been wrong before though
90 Coupe Quattro - 3b + 01e 87 4000 - future trail rig 00 a6 2.7t 6speed - winter beater
Are motor mounts that are made like this and not with a rubber thing a more noticeable feel in the drive of the car? or is it more of a stationary thing you wouldnt notice?
Keep them raw. Makes it easier not to have to clean off the coating when you go to powder coat them
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)