Motronic/034 flywheel/4000 swapped AAN

[Namreg Rac]

Been troubleshooting a no start situation on my AAN'd 4000Q that I just finished wiring Motronic in. By no start I mean, no fuel injector pulses and no spark. It has never started since finishing the wiring.

I have come to the conclusion that my crank position sensor is to far away from the timing pin on the flywheel.

Troubleshooting information to back up my current conclusion:

-Timing is perfect

-Crank pulley and cam pulley keys seem in tact. Engine stays in perfect time while continuously cranking motor

-Cam position sensor is functioning. (EFI express light harness)

-Engine speed sensor signal is allowing the ECU to ground fuel pump relay closed and start the fuel pump. (ECU Pin 3 is wired to "B" CEP bottom connector BS) (fuel pressure gauge on fuel rail supply line also confirms this)

-Using an AAN fuel pump relay - (same as a 3B as far as contacts go) Tried a 3B relay just for shits with the same result.

-Wiring has been triple checked - (fuel injector/maf/n75 ect control power comes through the fuel pump relay out of the CEP bottom, 87a spade)

-12V switched power via holding relay to fuel injectors/MAF ect. Wired to constant 12V via CEP bottom, L connector)

-12v switched power to the 2 coil leads via "B" CEP bottom connector B15

-12V switched power through fuel pump relay to O2 sensor/Heater via CEP bottom "O" spade.

-Brand new G4 and G28 sensors - resistance checks close to 1K

-VCDS output tests shows all equipment is functioning.

-I found out after the fact that I have to turn the motor over for 5 seconds for the VCDS fault code checks. I am away from my car for another week and will check for the crank sensor code. Initial VCDS checks showed the standard G28 engine speed sensor as well as an idle switch code. Cleared the idle switch code by loosening sensor and rotating to left until I heard the "click."

-Preliminary oscilloscope test shows maybe a total of 4 volts from peak to peak on crank position sensor. (I had to go to work for 2 weeks and was still trying to figure out how to properly set up said oscilloscope) I have been told that it needs to be 2V peak to peak and also that it needs to be 20V. I am assuming the 2V was a typo but not sure on that.

-I have an 034 aluminum flywheel for a 200 20v 016 transmission. The timing pin is definitely there. I backed the motor around 15 deg and centered the pin inside the crank sensor bracket hole. I then verified that the Cam position window was directly over the cam sensor.

-I measured the distance from the tip of the crank sensor to the pin and initially got 2.2mm. I sanded the primer and paint of the bracket location and got it down to 2mm total distance.

-I will use a 2 channel oscilloscope on the cam position and crank position sensors while cranking when I get home as well as take a more precise measurement. (Less Beer)

Finally my questions:

Has anybody ever had to mill the stock sensor bracket down to get the sensor/pin distance within spec? (.5mm - 1.5mm)
Has anybody ever been in this situation on the same or similar setup as mine? If so, what did you do?
Is there an interchangeable sensor that is longer that somebody has found does the trick for this specific setup?
Is there something I have overlooked?
Am I fucking crazy?

Sean

[Namreg Rac]

Ended up being a bad ECU.

[PRY4SNO]

Holy shit that sounds frustrating, but glad you got it figured out!

So now you're running and driving fine?

[Namreg Rac]

Not yet. I swapped to a stock ECU and the car fired right up. The problem is I have 550cc injectors, a 4bar FPR and a Gt3071r. As you can imagine, it didn't run very well. I just started it, I didn't drive it.

I sent the ECU back to the tuner. We will see what they say.


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