Coupe with a working hand brake

[A1QSHIP]

It is nice to have a working handbrake on my Coupe again. Brake upgrades are complete on my eS2 project. At least until I need new rotors

[90quattrocoupe]

Nice, Chris. I have the same setup I got from John B. I just have not gotten around to doing an install. I may be emailing you down the road for some advice about the e-brake cable install.

Did you take off your hubs to drill and tap the splash shield bolts to hold the adapter? Is that the B6 S4 rotor, 300X22?

Greg W.

[A1QSHIP]

Hmm don' know what happened.

[A1QSHIP]

I will follow up with a handbrake cable modification & e-brake install. I followed John B's write up on the S2 forum & have a better idea on how best to accomplish the cable mods. When I was doing the 5 lug swap & Boxster S brake upgrade I had already decided then to drill & tap the hub carriers in the event that I could source the handbrake parts. I purposely had an extra set of front & rear hub carriers to work with so everything was remove & reinstall with ready to go components. In hindsight, I would have spot faced the holes that the bracket sets upon. At least then I would not have needed to fiddle with the bracket spacing as much.
Hubs will have to be removed to drill & tap the bracket mounting holes. Yes that is the old tried & true 300X22mm rotor. I used Apikol brackets to mount the Porsche calipers.
Chris

[varia]

Looks good!

please give us some details how much work involved, or the total cost.
Im doing a brake upgrade for someone, and since i love simplicity, im thinking about this caliper:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381316396763?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

[A1QSHIP]

Looks good!

please give us some details how much work involved, or the total cost.
Im doing a brake upgrade for someone, and since i love simplicity, im thinking about this caliper:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381316396763?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Thanks Chris!
Nice choice for a caliper. Working on a how-to writeup now.

[90quattrocoupe]

I figured I had to pull the hubs. I have an extra set of 14mm hub carriers I got from a late Euro coupe, so I will drill and tap those. Any info on the brake cables would be good. That part of John's write up could have been a little more explanatory.

Did you use B4 sedan cables? These are the same as the B4 avant ones that John used for the extra length.

Greg W.

[A1QSHIP]

I figured I had to pull the hubs. I have an extra set of 14mm hub carriers I got from a late Euro coupe, so I will drill and tap those. Any info on the brake cables would be good. That part of John's write up could have been a little more explanatory.

Did you use B4 sedan cables? These are the same as the B4 avant ones that John used for the extra length.

Greg W.

I'm having trouble with my pictures integrating in to a post. It is how they formatted when moved over from my smarter than me phone.To answer your question Greg, yes B4 sedan cables. I totally agree about John's cable mods information & made a few mistakes that with now obtained knowledge I can help others avoid. In his defense, he did say that they were done by someone else.
Chris

[A1QSHIP]

First off, credit where credit is due. I began this upgrade by thoroughly reading this thread on the
S2 Forum.
http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62766
This gives a how to & parts list that I replicated.
Secondly, I do not want to make another set of these brackets. It took me way too much time with the tools I had to work with.
I have S2 hubs front & rear installed when I did the 5-bolt hub swap. The A4 hubs commonly used on the rear "should" work without any issue.
Found the Viper handbrake calipers from a salvage yard listing on e-bay & sourced new e-brake cables thru Amazon that came from Shokan. Acceptable pricing for the Viper calipers, the cost of the calipers was still as much as I paid for the Boxster S brake calipers. Hardware, calipers, cables, steel plate for the brackets amounted to under $700. The heart wants what the heart wants.
I tried to source the brackets from Bambridge but I ended up making my own.
Started with a piece of Poplar wood to make my initial design. Easy to work with & cheap enough to try different designs. Moved to 1/8" steel plate for a pattern & then on to 1/2" plate for the final bracket. Maybe 3/8" would have been enough but I wanted to have at least 6 full threads on the 10X1.25mm bolts that held the calipers to the brackets & the thread depth should be at least the diameter of the fastener.
I torched the rough design out of 1/2" plate steel as I do not have a plasma cutter. I used a Harbor Freight bench top drill press for my "machining" work & an electric grinder for my finishing operations.
My first attempt placed the caliper too close to the hub carrier arm.

My first attempt.

IMG_1367.JPG (1.73 MiB) Viewed 46610 times

August 9 107.JPG (2.49 MiB) Viewed 46610 times

Evolution

August 9 206.JPG (1.68 MiB) Viewed 46610 times

Mounting hole drilled & tapped

August 9 131.JPG (1.35 MiB) Viewed 46610 times

Lower mounting hole drilled & tapped.

August 9 132.JPG (1.34 MiB) Viewed 46610 times

[A1QSHIP]

Metal mock up bracket

August 9 144.JPG (1.25 MiB) Viewed 46609 times

Showing pad contact rotor concentrically & not overhanging rotor.

August 9 213.JPG (2.13 MiB) Viewed 46609 times

Mounted to hub carrier

August 9 212.JPG (1.29 MiB) Viewed 46609 times

Spacers installed to keep bracket in the same plane as the rotor. Only needed on upper mounting point.

August 9 216.JPG (1.45 MiB) Viewed 46609 times

Modified caliper for B4 cable to fit.

August 9 211.JPG (1.83 MiB) Viewed 46609 times

[A1QSHIP]

On to the cables.I want to clarify first that the brake cables ends will be referred to as the caliper end (CE) & the hand brake adjuster end (HB). Also, there are the parts of the hand brake cable that makes up the hand brake cable assembly. We will call them in order, firstly, the outer covering with the metal spiral wrap. The spiral wrap covers the inner sheath with Ferrule on the CE end of the hand brake cable. The inner sheath covers the plastic covered cable that imparts motion from the hand brake lever to the brake caliper arm. The write up by John B left me with questions about the brake cable modifications. (You did read it thoroughly, Right?) He mentions to remove the extra length from the caliper end of the cable. I believe that the hand brake adjuster end will be the better choice. There is a metal Ferrel on the CE that holds the inner sheath in place. As you remove the 100mm of outer cable sheathing from the CE you risk the chance of melting the inner sheath as well as needing to move the Ferrule. After removing 100mm of length from the outer cable sheath you are faced with how do you get it off. I used an air powered cut off wheel but had to be careful to not melt the plastic inner sheath that the inner cable rides in. If you do melt it then you will need to transfer the Ferrule on to the newly cut part of the inner sheath. No fun. If you work from the HB end then you can let the inner sheath protect the inner cable when you cut the 100mm section out. I used a heat gun to heat up the metal end of the CE off the cable body while twisting off metal end with a pair of pliers.

Mark cable 100mm from end of metal end of CE

August 9 219.JPG (1.26 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

CE metal end removed & showing extra bit of outer cable housing

August 9 220.JPG (1.15 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

Showing Ferrule on CE end of cable.

August 9 221.JPG (837.85 KiB) Viewed 46598 times

Need to cut this out without damaging inner sheath.

August 9 222.JPG (1.01 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

Metal spiral wrap removed.

August 9 224.JPG (1.71 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

[A1QSHIP]

Working on the HB end of the cable.

Extra bit of inner sheathing to be trimmed off. I used a razor blade & carefully "fillet" it away.

August 9 226.JPG (1.72 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

Leave this much sticking out

August 9 227.JPG (1.41 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

HB end back together.

August 9 229.JPG (1.26 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

Back to the CE end of cable.

Boot trimmed on the CE end.

August 9 231.JPG (1.28 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

Boot trimmed to prevent interference with pulley. I left both ends of the rubber boot & trimmed away the inner section of the boot. A bit of grease to help seal the end & all is good. The pulley tends to keep the boot in place.

August 9 234.JPG (1.2 MiB) Viewed 46598 times

[A1QSHIP]

Right, continuing on. The bracket that secures the forward end of the hand brake cable will need to be enlarged for the B4 cable to fit the B3 chassis. The B4 cable end is slightly larger than the B3 cable bracket. You can reuse your old cable clips from the B3 cables if they are not rusted away as mine were.

Bracket needs to be slightly enlarged for the cable to mount properly.

August 9 233.JPG (1.31 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

Cable with new clip.

August 9 232.JPG (1.33 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

You will want to use these plastic sleeves from the B3 chassis. The cable passes thru these on their way rearward. Not bad for 26 year old plastic.

August 9 217.JPG (1.54 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

Plastic guide for fitment to the B4 chassis. Cut this off now as it will be in the way later.

IMG_1633.JPG (1.51 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

Tweak the factory cable guide bracket so it supports new cable & does not cut in to outer cable covering.

IMG_1631 (2).JPG (1.23 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

[A1QSHIP]

Almost done.

Cable routed Behind back end of subframe. Plastic tubing cut to fit over new parking brake cable for protection.

IMG_1636.JPG (1.67 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

Another angle.

IMG_1637.JPG (2.04 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

Adel clamp to hold cable to subframe on left side.

IMG_1650.JPG (1.67 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

Adel clamp holding cable on right side.

IMG_1630.JPG (1.62 MiB) Viewed 46589 times

And there you go. Questions? Comments? Criticisms?
Chris