The Project Pad

Justin517 wrote:Just read his entire thread. Car looks great. I want to lower mine eventually... But never will... Just a fast high riding winter cah.

Thanks, It's very far from the caliber of any of the other 200s on here however.

I just got the radiator replaced, removed the secondary one, ad tightened up all the lines. Seems to be working well.

As with the last few months with the car, on to the next issue....
When I accelerate hard, I get a rubbing sound in what seems like the rear of the car. I've raised the back end up over 3/4 of an inch now thinking that it is rubbing somewhere, but I still get the rub...Rather frustrating. I also am getting a metal on metal sound when hitting bumps still, although I check almost daily that stuff is still nice and tight. I've raised the front up several times as well to no avail.

Maybe its rubbing on the inner (inboard) fender if you have pretty high offset wheels?

im betting exh. is rubbing somewehre

my2000apb wrote:im betting exh. is rubbing somewehre

I will check later today and update!

check where it goes over the pass/rear cv shaft and on the mid/rear tunnel shielding near the diff

my2000apb wrote:check where it goes over the pass/rear cv shaft and on the mid/rear tunnel shielding near the diff

This is a t44 not a small chassis.

pilihp2 wrote:

my2000apb wrote:check where it goes over the pass/rear cv shaft and on the mid/rear tunnel shielding near the diff

This is a t44 not a small chassis.

ok well my exact guess may be wrong, but theres plenty of stuff on a t44 for exhaust rubbage potential

As always, I'm thinking Chris may be right. I saw two little wear marks on the inner fender..

The Audi decided it would be nice to crack at the Auxiliary Water Pump. Dumped out a large amount of coolant into my driveway.

New pump on the way along with a new coolant reservoir. I need to start catching up on the cleanliness the rest of you guys maintain.

Also, I want to put out feelers on getting myself some 17 inch wheels with the intent to go a front brake conversion within the next few months.
What sizes have been run on the coilover setup as far as width and offset? Also would be interested in what everyone has laying around and would be willing to part with(brake parts would be nice too!)

No problem with the rubbing, some spacers will fix that right up (assuming you are talking about the part of the fender well that is toward the inside of the car... not the part which makes up the wheel arch). I can only assume your stock wheels aren't anywhere near wide enough to hit on the arch part of the fender You wouldn't want to mess with that until you get into some different wheels though.

In the front, I've only run 8.5" wheels. I forget the offset, but I think it was ~27 after my adapters. Never had any problem at all. To give you a little better idea of what can fit in the outward direction, I had some BMW Style 5's on the car. They are 8" wide and 20 offset... but I had to put 20mm adapters too. They poked a bit, but with some camber they would have fit. You'd probably be safe with an 8" wheel and 10mm offset. So you can do the math as to what that translates into for a wider wheel. For performance, I'd like to see some 9" wide wheels on the car all around. You can easily fit 10's in the back, but that throws the blance all off. Looks cool though

Chris,
I've been playing around with a few options and seem to like these.

17x9 with 22mm offset.
Any thoughts? Also, I am still running UFO up front, will i need to do both at once?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/17X9-VARRSTOEN- ... 0880625531

Those are pretty nice looking. I'm not sure the centerbore will fit though (I forget exactly what it is on the Audi). I think that size and offset might be a tight squeeze, but it could work. This might help you out...

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator#Results

What do you mean both at once? Both brakes at once? You mean brakes and wheels at the same time? Yes, You will probably need to do them at the same time.

loxxrider wrote:Those are pretty nice looking. I'm not sure the centerbore will fit though (I forget exactly what it is on the Audi). I think that size and offset might be a tight squeeze, but it could work. This might help you out...

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator#Results

What do you mean both at once? Both brakes at once? You mean brakes and wheels at the same time? Yes, You will probably need to do them at the same time.

I feared that I would have to convert brakes at the same time. Will take a little longer to get the funds together.
What size were those Porsche wheels you ran? I want wide rims, but I don't know if fitment issues are worth pushing it.
For the front brakes are they really 750$ for two front calipers? Or can I buy a remanufactured set off of RockAuto for example? That seems excessive for it to cost $1100+ or so bucks for calipers, rotors, brackets, and lines....

20VAvant wrote:

loxxrider wrote:Those are pretty nice looking. I'm not sure the centerbore will fit though (I forget exactly what it is on the Audi). I think that size and offset might be a tight squeeze, but it could work. This might help you out...

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator#Results

What do you mean both at once? Both brakes at once? You mean brakes and wheels at the same time? Yes, You will probably need to do them at the same time.

I feared that I would have to convert brakes at the same time. Will take a little longer to get the funds together.
What size were those Porsche wheels you ran? I want wide rims, but I don't know if fitment issues are worth pushing it.
For the front brakes are they really 750$ for two front calipers? Or can I buy a remanufactured set off of RockAuto for example? That seems excessive for it to cost $1100+ or so bucks for calipers, rotors, brackets, and lines....

That isn't too far off in price, but you might find a good deal somewhere. Just check e-bay I suppose. If it makes you feel better, I think I paid around $700 for my calipers, rotors, and brackets... all used.

The Porsche wheels were 18x10 and 18x8.5 et~23 and ~25 respectively after spacers if I remember correctly. Casey would be a good one to ask too. He is one of the others with 200 20v's who has tried wider wheels.

I don't know what's involved in the swap from UFO but I have a complete big red 993tt brake kit with brackets, ss lines, pads, and rotors that I'm half assedly trying to sell for $650. But not if I get brackets made so they can go on my 4k

chaloux wrote:I don't know what's involved in the swap from UFO but I have a complete big red 993tt brake kit with brackets, ss lines, pads, and rotors that I'm half assedly trying to sell for $650. But not if I get brackets made so they can go on my 4k

Which brackets do you have?
I'm a little clueless on what exactly I need to make them work on the 200 with UFOS

I believe you need UFO specific brackets.

loxxrider wrote:I believe you need UFO specific brackets.

Chris,
I emailed the guys over at Apikol and they informed me that I will need to convert to G60 struts.

"unfortunately we do no make an adapter for the UFO configuration. You need to convert to the G60 struts in order to use one of our adapter brackets."

I will have to do a bit more research on this.

In other news....cooling system issues galore!
It started up at school one day, I got out to make sure I wasn't over the line and noticed a stream of coolant. Upon further investigation it was spewing from about 2 inches up from the bottom of the rear of the radiator into the fan. Below you can see it was pretty eaten up.


The night after getting the radiator replaced, I took the Audi for a spin to let it warm up and when I pulled into my driveway, the gates of hell opened. I lost almost all of my coolant due to a crack in the Secondary Water Pump. New one shown below.

Also while I was at it replaced the old coolant reservoir and cap. I need to start working on catching up with how clean some of the cars on here are.

Yoda (Austin) has linked a company that sells ufo brackets. I have it in my favorites at home.

They used to make them, I don't know why they dont anymore. I have a design for them somewhere, but this was from a really long time ago and I don't remember if it needed any tweaking or not. You could have them made though or take the cad file and check it against measurements if someone here wants to take some on their calipers/strut housings

Somewhat related that I found in my favorites.
http://www7.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php ... ead#unread

loxxrider wrote:They used to make them, I don't know why they dont anymore. I have a design for them somewhere, but this was from a really long time ago and I don't remember if it needed any tweaking or not. You could have them made though or take the cad file and check it against measurements if someone here wants to take some on their calipers/strut housings

I'd be very interested in that drawing. My work could make them for under 35-50$ if I have them modeled and program them .myself. save me quite a bit of money and hassle. What brakes were they meant for?

If you can do them for cheap I'd probably be in for a pair so I have future options...

*Updated

WELL.
Upon looking at the front right shock tonight I noticed a ring on the shock body almost all the way up to the top. It's the seal on the cap that threads onto the upright. Assuming this is a dust seal.

On to further frustrate me I f#%ked up the thread on the top of the body being an idiot. Ordered a die to fix, we'll see how it goes. *It's fixed.

On a different note, it's still starting incredibly poorly, 4-5 cranks and when it starts it fluctuates from 250-1000 RPM pretty roughly.
I need to play around with settings. I changed the injectors to individual as some have recommended and it's noticeable worse on startup but smoother than afterstart. On simultaneous it will start better but takes it longer to even out.

Cleaned the engine bay some on a day off.
[URL=http://imageshack.com/i/gvf8i8j]
[URL=http://imageshack.com/i/fvlw69j]

The car is on vems now right? You're either too lean or way too rich at idle. Probably brought on by some cooler weather?

If the billies are really blown ready that's pretty sad. Take a picture? Usually when they blow, they just Leake a lot of oil. At least you'd be sure to get them rebuilt for free!

Small little update

Starting a lot better recently after switching a few settings.

Having a few suspension problems at the moment.
The cap that threads the shock insert in the front has a little seal on it that centers the shock body. It separates from the cap and slides up and allows the shock to wobble....

I also discovered why I get a rubbing sound on hard acceleration.
[URL=http://imageshack.com/i/mhtkycj]
As you can see above, there is a rotational wear on the axle. Upon further inspection I noticed some fresh metal up on the frame where it has been rubbing.... I will be grinding away the excess material there and also be looking into some stiffer springs for the rear.