The Project Pad

wow, very interesting on the kevlar showing no wear. looking forward to it

Speaking of, got back to work on the 6 speed swap. Current issue is to cut and re-weld the s4 linkage. As Janis found out on his 01E swap the rods are a little long. Pretty cool, audi fills the stock rods with lead:



Here's a really bad shot showing roughly where the box winds up with the rods uncut:



so it definitely has to come forward several inches.

I bought a scissor style low profile tranny jack from harbor freight to make the job a little easier. It works awesome, $100 bux:



took apart the old tranny. yep, not much left of 4th gear:



More updates when I get the linkage sorted tomorrow.

hey Marc, you can make your shifter shorter too for free..... just redrill the pivot hole on the shifter lever down about a half in or so. i did it on my A6 and like it a lot. not too short, not stock length either.

Marc - save that munched 01A, I'll grab it for the nerds at work to take apart (unless you have big plans for it)

RS wrote:Marc - save that munched 01A, I'll grab it for the nerds at work to take apart (unless you have big plans for it)

its yours, come n' get it

I also have a perfectly working 016 box out of a 5000tq you can have gratis if you want it.

sweet. nerds will be happy. greasy, but happy. save the 016 for some of the poor broke folks that will make use of it. failure analysis is much more interesting anyway.

Could i get 2nd gear???

So I'm stuck in shift linkage hell. Getting the rods right is a pain in the balls. Right now it shifts fine into 3rd,4th,5th,6th, but 1st, 2nd, and reverse are a bear because the linkgage rods touch as they angle in that direction, I tried clearancing the rods but the linkage binds near the top where everything attaches into the box. Not sure whats next, I might try changing the angle on the shift rod to give it more clearance as they angle in that direction. Grr.

Also, while looking at my bell housing on the 01E I saw a strange wear mark, like something happened to the clutch at one point and damaged the casing. It looks like someone repaired it at one point with JB weld but it appears to be worn through. Hmmmm.

Marc, odd question for you since you are there alrady...would it be possible to drill a hole on the bottom of 01A bell housing so I can sneak a peek at the back of the pressure plate?

Instead of dropping my trans I wouldn't mind taking a look first to see if some PP hands are indeed broken...

yep, very easy. best done with a boroscope so you dont need to drill a massive hole.

Yeah, but finding one might be challenging....i was thinking a small flash light and a mirror.....but cool, I just wanted to know if there is enough room to drill a hole...thanks.

a_CQ wrote:Yeah, but finding one might be challenging....i was thinking a small flash light and a mirror.....but cool, I just wanted to know if there is enough room to drill a hole...thanks.

you can borrow my boroscope if you need.

you can borrow my boroscope if you need.

Hmmm, didn't know you had one. I'll try and find one lpcally first. If no luck, I'll reach to you in next couple of days - thanks!

'round here we'd say you gots a West Virginia gearbox with all dem missin teeth!

you can borrow my boroscope if you need.

Marc, thanks again but I found one locally.

Peter

picked up some supplies to CC my heads, would have done it tonight but F1 is on

"Flavor Injector" from wally world, $3 with nice graduations and a fine tip needle

and the answer is: 50ccs



I used an arrangement of hardware store springs to keep the valves closed, only really needed one keeper jammed in there to keep things together, worked pretty damn good.

Cool,

So how much are you taking out and what CR change will you end up with?

H

and the answer is: 50ccs

What are the 20v heads by comparison?

timmmy wrote:Cool,

So how much are you taking out and what CR change will you end up with?

H

with stacked gaskets I calculated I was around 9:1 CR. The thought here is that if I can remove the same amount of volume from the combustion chamber as the area created by the additional gasket, stacked gaskets will not be necessary. This volume should be around 5ccs.

20v90q wrote:

and the answer is: 50ccs

What are the 20v heads by comparison?

high 4xccs, dont have an exact number handy.

yay, I now have a shifter that goes into all gears

rather than beat the hell out of the body I was able to get the necessary clearance by "flat spotting" a section of the linkage:



the complete assembly:



So on that funky hole in the bell housing that I found earlier, its actually pretty big.. here it is after cleaning it out:



I'm just going to seal up the hole and hope for the best. My guess is that this is a rebuilt box and a repair was made on the case. fingers crossed..

Id just check the shift linkage every couple months and check for....whats the word...structural integrity I think its been compromised ...not saying it wont hold up but it'd suck to have it come apart while trying to go fast...at least the main gear shift portion is relatively untouched...well I'd say id trust the butt weld further as long as you got good penetration

Marc, not to be a d!ck, but man that linkage is nasty looking. Wasn't there a better way to do that? If you were one of my fab guys I'd make you redo that

cuatrokoop wrote:Marc, not to be a d!ck, but man that linkage is nasty looking. Wasn't there a better way to do that? If you were one of my fab guys I'd make you redo that

now you and Haydn both are on me about it

The ugly rod is merely the stabilizer, just holds the shifter in position relative to the position of the tranny, eg if for some reason the tranny shifts backwards the whole shift assembly moves backwards. Its totally structural, just looks rough.

You should have seen it when it had a 1/2" of mig snot all over it from tacking it in place from underneath the car till I got the position right

Im not really sure I understand how you mocked it up/welded it with the amount of room you must have had lol