The Project Pad

Posted: **Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:41 am**

haha yes, a lot has gone on since page 8!

The orange reflectors don't really bother me, but I guess if I knew where to source them I might look into changing them

Posted: **Mon Apr 05, 2010 6:28 am**

loxxrider wrote:I assume you are talking about the rings. I'll make a thread about them over on QW, etc. if you want. I make them for cost plus whatever you want to donate to fund college and my car haha. They cost about $10 for the steel, $5 for shipping, and $5 for supplies. The new hole saws were not cheap so basically I would have lost money this time if it wasn't for some nice little donations It takes me about an hour in the shop to make a set.

The next sets I wont have to buy more hole saws...hopefully I can get a few more sets out with these same saws. Anyway, I will make the design for the strut mounts available when I'm done as well. I just want to see more old audis on coilovers! Its nice to give back to the community too.

dont sell yourself short thought. Especially with the lack of availability for good coilovers for the c4 chasis cars etc = do it up. I can tell you right now id buy a set and know 2 other people who would definately put the money up. Hence the suggestion of throwing the thread up on quattroworld urs4-s6 .

Posted: **Mon Apr 05, 2010 6:45 am**

germantoy wrote:
loxxrider wrote:I assume you are talking about the rings. I'll make a thread about them over on QW, etc. if you want. I make them for cost plus whatever you want to donate to fund college and my car haha. They cost about $10 for the steel, $5 for shipping, and $5 for supplies. The new hole saws were not cheap so basically I would have lost money this time if it wasn't for some nice little donations It takes me about an hour in the shop to make a set.

The next sets I wont have to buy more hole saws...hopefully I can get a few more sets out with these same saws. Anyway, I will make the design for the strut mounts available when I'm done as well. I just want to see more old audis on coilovers! Its nice to give back to the community too.

dont sell yourself short thought. Especially with the lack of availability for good coilovers for the c4 chasis cars etc = do it up. I can tell you right now id buy a set and know 2 other people who would definately put the money up. Hence the suggestion of throwing the thread up on quattroworld urs4-s6 .

Right, gotcha...I would love to make lots and lots of them and sell them but I don't want to over stay my welcome in the machine shop since there isn't one dedicated to students anymore. I may have to find another way to do it unless I space them out over time a lot more.

I'd love to find a drill press that could spin the hole saws slowly enough to do it properly...but I don't know of any that will. I'll have to look around.

Posted: **Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:32 am**

chinesium

That's freakin awesome, my new word of the day

I have Snap-On hole saws, they work awesome...One trick is to put the drill in reverse to get the line started, then change to forward for less "walk"..I had a set of those HF ones, one weekend I needed some and didn't want to drive all the way to my shop to get my good ones..Those things were only good for cutting through ABS plastic :x

Posted: **Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:39 am**

Its not getting it started that worries me, its spinning it slowly enough so the tool doesn't wear out quickly (get too hot) and its also the chatter and such that you get from spinning too quickly.

I just want something strong and slow (down to 60rpm). I also want something old and american that I can find on CL or something...I just need a brand to look for

Posted: **Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:10 am**

I use mine in a Chinesium HF drill press hahahahaa...

Posted: **Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:25 am**

lol I got a kick out of chinesium too

OK well I guess it cant hurt to try one on a regular drill press...we'll see!

Posted: **Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:48 pm**

Here are some nice rings

and here are all of the nice, new Hargetts I got in

its no wonder they aren't cheap...looks like they are machined out of a solid chunk of aluminum

dont forget your o-rings! They cost extra lol

all closed up

did another firmware update (now 1.1.70) and got the car to idle better. Had to give it a lot of fuel. Like .82 lambda :(

Also got the car to come off of decel more smoothly by increasing the duration of spray for accel enrichment. (thanks to Marc)

Car still has issues when it hits around 10psi. No idea what it is yet. We'll see.

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:52 am**

Don't forget to lube the o-rings before assembly, otherwise you can cut/tear them...

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:26 am**

yeah, no kidding they pretty much wont go together otherwise actually. These things are TIGHT. It helps to have some pipe welded on there for grip obviously.

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:08 am**

Excuse my ignorance... but what is a hargett?

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:00 am**

Instead of silicone couplers for intercooler piping, you have these Hargetts which is essensially a quick disconnect, "hard" fitting. No more worrying about boost leaks. If there ever is one, its because of an o-ring, and that wont happen for years and years.

I just like it because there is no way for them to blow off, no way to have a leak as long as the o-rings are good, no t-bolts to mess with, no nothing. Just two fingers to release it and you have your pipe off or on.

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:05 am**

I'm thinking about those clamps for my UrQ. seksay.

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:21 am**

You should definitely do it. For any kind of high end build I think they are a must. They just look soooo much cleaner and classy than silicone. If you do get some, I have the hookup on the o-rings. They are $4.50 a piece on the site. I can get them for pennies on the dollar. (mine were free!!

)

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:17 am**

Hmm... does that mean that if I spec'd out a size for you, you might be able to get me them? I'm needing some for my motorcycle project.

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:39 am**

I'm only talking about the Hargett ones. I know they are standard o-rings, but I'm pretty sure I only have access to the ones you can use on the QDC couplings which means the 1". 2", 2.5", 3", etc.

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:45 am**

Ok... I'm looking for specific metric O-rings.

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:46 am**

:/ sorry

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 12:12 pm**

Hmmmm I really really like them. I was thinking about just doing the t-bolts with the silicone ... but now that I see this... It really has me thinking. My only reservation is flexibility, because when the engine rocks back underload couldn't those connections become strained or will you have some kind of flex pipe to handle that? BTW What site did you pick these up from?

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:19 pm**

They allow for a pretty decent amount of flex actually. They are able to seal misaligned tubes as well. I got them thru a friend of Mr. Hargett...they are available to the public here though.

http://hargettprecision.com/index.php/q ... e-qdc.html

Posted: **Fri Apr 09, 2010 6:26 pm**

Sweet thanks!!!!

Posted: **Sat Apr 10, 2010 4:58 pm**

Tuned for about 30min last night while driving on a longer trip. Marc on the phone in one hand, laptop in my lap putting in values with right hand, and steering with my knees lol.

The problems it was having were all due to timing. Put more timing in it and the car was perfect. So I need to take a timing light to the car and set the base timing again.

Posted: **Sat Apr 10, 2010 6:50 pm**

Yeah, I've kinda had it with silicone couplers and tbolts. I'm doing Adel Wiggins clamps in the future.

Posted: **Sat Apr 10, 2010 6:59 pm**

Why Wiggins over Hargett? I'd also look into Hydraflow fittings. They are much cheaper than Wiggins and are the same thing. Both compete with each other in the military market.

Posted: **Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:06 pm**

I like em. How do they allow for engine flex?

The Project Pad

Loxxrider's 200 20v Revver: See you on "The Project Pad"