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Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:47 am
by Highlander
Looking great Jim
Cheers,
Craig
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:49 pm
by PRA4WX
a_CQ wrote:Nice! Welding that without warping all around is going to be tough. I'd be tempted to just rivet the flares on...nothing wrong with that. :wink:
Sissy! ;-)
Keep up the good work, Jim.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:15 am
by Hank
It is too bad that a family death is taking me to Florida this weekend not Orange County. I could have taken my suitcase TIG welder and made a house call for welding in some fenders without distortion.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 4:25 am
by WOMBAT
That is going to look proper Jim, very nice!
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:05 am
by my2000apb
ShavedQuattro wrote:It is too bad that a family death is taking me to Florida this weekend not Orange County. I could have taken my suitcase TIG welder and made a house call for welding in some fenders without distortion.
distortion free huh? how are you with sunroof plugs?
Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:59 pm
by audifreakjim
The plan is lots of tack welds....
This is getting more obnoxious by the minute, 275's are really huge, and require pulling the fender and the flares to clear while turning and compressing the bump stop. The hood gap I figure I'll just have to fill it and the door gap, TBD, maybe some kind of mesh.
Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:34 pm
by audifreakjim
I should just boxflare it..
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:48 pm
by Mcstiff
I was just thinking that you could do that following the body line.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:55 pm
by 90quattrocoupe
Jim.
Personal opinion is that, the B3 body style is too rounded for UrQ type box flares. I think you are going in the right direction, just need to start the flare earlier at the top, and make then wider. Just do the whole side of the car, as below. You already have the hood vents. Just do the rest. Will look nice, in all yellow.
Greg W.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:05 pm
by audifreakjim
Greg, seen any extra fenders in the yards lately ? I could use a few to make filler pieces
Do the entire side, do you mean rocker panels? It would be pretty easy to have some bent up, and would also fix my giant steamboat dent.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:08 pm
by 90quattrocoupe
audifreakjim wrote:Greg, seen any extra fenders in the yards lately ? I could use a few to make filler pieces
Sorry, Jim, no B4s or B3s in the yards last week.
GregW.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:54 pm
by Quattro v1.0
audifreakjim wrote:I should just boxflare it..
One of our German shop owners here in Vegas has a Golf 'rallye' TDi. He used the rounded box flares from an isuzu rodeo and they look freakin' fantastic on the Golf...
Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 5:00 am
by a_CQ
Jimmy, of you are looking for more ideas...e46 M3 fenders look good too.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 5:38 am
by RSCoupe
audifreakjim wrote:...275's are really huge...
:woowoo:
:-)
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 6:21 am
by my2000apb
944 flares would look great
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 6:59 am
by audifreakjim
Thanks guys, but I am going to stay the course and space out the front fender about an inch where it meets the door. I could avoid doing this by moving the flare up 1/2", but that make the wheel to fender gap too large and it looks like it's not even lowered. I could also rotate my steering arm another 1/2", but that has it's own issues that I don't want to fuss with. In the end the urs flares allow me to keep the same arch profile and height.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 5:21 pm
by audifreakjim
I have been watching way to many videos on how to build fiberglass parts.. Effing bodywork!
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 5:52 pm
by Mcstiff
CFFTW!
Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:02 pm
by audifreakjim
Going to shave this down and post the two or three ideas I have had whirling in my head for the past two months.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:06 pm
by 85oceanic
Sweet!
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:07 pm
by Hank
lol
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:12 pm
by quattro87
audifreakjim wrote:Going to shave this down and post the two or three ideas I have had whirling in my head for the past two months.
Just paint it as is.....the foam is already kind of yellow :wink:
Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:23 pm
by audifreakjim
Fro-fenders, lol
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:18 pm
by pkw
its a safety improvement.
Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp
Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:38 pm
by audifreakjim
It would kick ass on a lemons car!
OK, I eventually got feed up with this, said screw it and went to the beach..
This is how it started, here is where I really need the flare.
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So, option 1, would be pretty easy IMO, is just to step the fender out below the body line, that way the hood and windshield meet up.
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Or with a little more work, make sort of a small box flare. I like this option the best.
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Or keep it simple and just fill the gap, some new cars have this, I don't like it.
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I am going to play with a few things on the suspension. If I can get the wheel in another 10mm or so up against the strut tube I should be able to just weld the fender on as planned.
I am going to play with lowering the steering arm, anyone ever put it all the way down, almost inside the wheel?
*edit*
I just finished looking through Haydn's 4k thread and his pics show everything I have been thinking about, I am going to rotate and lower the arms some more.
I would like to have some ackerman angle, but may have to give it up.
One other idea is to increase the offset of the strut where the strut and bearing housing bolt together to move the steering arm in. I am not sure I understand how this will affect the geometry..
I feel like this is turning into a soap opera, I want them to be easily repairable as well, so not crazy custom.