The Project Pad

The fat fives are in the back of the TT and the keys are on the kitchen counter. Does weldcraftwheels sell stock so that donor wheels don't have to be cut up? A one inch ring that was already cut and that you knew was straight from the get go would sure make it easier to insert.

Thanks Hank, just e-mailed them for a quote.

I busted a rear axle tonight on the inner joint. Smoke was billowing out the boot when I looked under there for the culprit after nasty grinding bucking( I think that best describes it) I may be able to get away with just sliding a new joint on the existing shaft, but I also think there is a good chance that the thing is going to be mangled Janis style when I take it apart.. ..

What brand is my best shot at getting a strong axle back there? What Joints are the strongest? I have the 4kq rear diff and axles in there right now.. I suppose I should go to a 108mm rear axle and joint if this keeps happening.

I am pretty darn sure I can dip into the 10s with snows btw. They are soft, and sure do hook up well

Welcome to the club snows and 10ns hard to say, you will need to get > 1.6 ft with 500 whp I can not hook my car on a snows at all, and mt drags were melting of in a 3 gear @Ned

ShavedQuattro wrote: What brand is my best shot at getting a strong axle back there? What Joints are the strongest? I have the 4kq rear diff and axles in there right now.. I suppose I should go to a 108mm rear axle and joint if this keeps happening.

What did you do with your original axles from the back end?
You have two options, get some 5ktq rear axle flanges to get 108mm for the 4kq rear end. Or find an early 4kq large diff, it already has 108mm flanges (that's my solution).

The passenger side rear URQ now resides up front on the passenger front, remember? I have cups from the urs4 rear diff that would be plug and play to get up to 108mm cups, but no real way to get URQ rear shafts reliably. If you have a secret source of URQ rear shafts, PM ME

I have been playing around with shortening 5kq front axles to be the right length to work in the URQ without the spacers. Perhaps this is the time to see how they hold up.

Janis, Me things your CQ needs to loose some more weight. With an honest, and verified 520whp, I get great traction on greasy streets in third gear with snows (245-40-17s blizzaks) on. 1st and 2nd are a little tip toey, but I can get 3rd to hook up nicely.

Also, my big thanks to my buddy Brett with a 325iX!!! We recorded another 10 miles of flat tow last night!!

could you modify a rear urs4 axle to fit? are they the same spline count/size

no... different outter splines..

Looks like it's time to go RWD with leaf springs and live axle.

Lots of 4x4 companies make custom shafts and 300M CVs. I guess the question is what would be the next weak point?

I am going to contact a few shops to see if I can get a few shafts right now. The nice thing about hte 01e swap, is that i used spacers to take up the shorter length of the rear right axle I am using in 3 out of 4 axles. I think I could probably use a spacer in the rear right, and end up with the same axle length for all of the axles with the same outters and inner joints. This would cut costs significantly in getting nice Moly shafts cut, as 10 sets would mean 40 shafts.

This would also get URQ guys a replacement option for the rear right and front drivers, because as of now, they are NLA(and also the same shaft). We could use 5ktq inners and outer CVs

Oh Hank! That launch was INSANE!!!! And then clunk... :(

Nice! Thanks Brett again Brett!! You are the coolest Bimmer owner I know!

Haha, Anytime Hank!

A little washed out, but you get the idea...

looks like the exhaust took a ding

Mcstiff wrote:Lots of 4x4 companies make custom shafts and 300M CVs. I guess the question is what would be the next weak point?

Well said, If you make everything "stronger" the weaker part(s) will still break. The question is what would you rather break, axles or trans? If it had to be between CV's or shafts...hmm. I Vote keep the CV's weak, but when will those run out after you fast guys keep buying them. LOL

I think the rear diff may be next in line for breaking after shafts/CV's are indestructible. No?

looks like serious rubbing at some point too(exhaust)..initial fitting?

With an honest, and verified 520whp, I get great traction on greasy streets in third gear with snows (245-40-17s blizzaks) on. 1st and 2nd are a little tip toey, but I can get 3rd to hook up nicely.

I know Hank is talking about the dyno when he says verified, but last weekend I was up in Salt Lake and had the opportunity to take the Urq for a play session. I'm not sure how much of that 520whp I used, but I can verify that the car is scary fast. It took me 4 or 5 pulls to not chicken out at 5500 rpms, because it pulls so hard and quick. I have to say it's quite easy to break everything loose in 1st and 2nd and even 3rd, but it does start hooking up pretty well in 3rd. The problem is that by the time you are in 3rd @ 6k you are already approaching go to jail speeds and the 8.5k limiter comes so quick it's hard to modulate the pedal, especially in the first two gears. It's amazing at how drivable it is under part boost and still quite fast compared to most anything stock on the streets, but when the boost hits......oh my.....Katie bar the door....I'm just barely getting the grin off of my face days later.

Hank I'm glad it didn't break on me or Colter. That is a bummer that you have axle problems, but it's not like you didn't see it coming!! I guess the axle shaft just couldn't flex and twist anymore and something had to give.

Yeah, I wonder Hank, when your car squats maybe the exhaust contacted the crazy busted C.V. ???

Mcstiff wrote:Lots of 4x4 companies make custom shafts and 300M CVs. I guess the question is what would be the next weak point?

Hey Hank and Hankin

For me and the Monster, the fuse/weak point are the tires. They just break loose. Makes the car squirrely to drive but I'd rather have that than break axles or trannys. At some point I'll go bigger on the tires, 255/35-18 RE-11s for now, but when I do we'll have a new set of hardened axles done up.

Hap, with some kind of fuses near Everboost, Maguire

Yeah, the exhaust "ding" is from when I lost an exhaust hanger, and the aluminum exhaust crashed on the axle for a couple of miles before I limped over to Daves house(the warehouse) for a replacement. I welded on thick portion where that would potentially happen in the future, so it woudln't wreck the exhaust like last time.

The exhaust is somewhat hard mounted to the body, and the subframe is hard mounted to the body, so I don't think they ever come into contact unless a hanger/hardmount breaks.

Hap, the urs4 axles are huge. This is actually what I plan on doing. I want to use the inner CB and shaft of the urS shaft(they are hollow and friction welded together as two pieces) and weld them to an URQ/5kq outter shaft and CV with a moly center, and then a sleeve over the welded portion. I think this would make them a little more robust, and get a 108mm CV back that appears to be more weak than the shaft..

Lets not kid ourselves though, I'll post pictures that push the point, but my rear axles are twisted every bit of 180 degrees since i painted white stripes on them last time

I ordered a new rear axle that I will keep in the car as an emergency when I see track duty, I had the option to choose an 84 4000q, and did. I wonder if it will show up as a 108 inner, or the 4kq 100mm??

audifreakjim wrote:Looks like it's time to go RWD with leaf springs and live axle.

:stupid:

and 8.8" Ford Exploder would work right nicely. or 9". and have 4.11 available, too.

and i still have a theory on these axles... i have not broken any yet, and i hope i do not.

but my theory has to do with a Torsen center. when it modulates so hard back and forth, i think these little tiny unloaded times just let it give shock to the system.

i dunno how the UrQ is setup, does it have a Torsen or locker center? i think you have an 01E in it now right Hank???

A couple new developments. I wondered last night why I could not get the car to move with the rear diff locked. If one shaft goes, you still should be able to lock the rear diff(it was locked at the time of breaking) and limp with the good wheel, and the torsen would not freak out. (yes Aaron, I have a torsen center diff in an 01e)

Well I found out why that was..

Not one, but two busted inner CVs.


Now here is the interesting part. I had the car up on the lift just 2 days ago swapping in a new 01e trans that didn't have a fubared 1-2 shift collar. I had to take out the exhaust, and I would have noticed this. I even scoped out the possability of putting the big body urS rear diff in there, and looked at the mounts then..



Look how far it traveled up at some point (probably the loud bang sensation when it went)





That gives the drivers inner CV a break, as it would have overstreatched, but the passenger side really had no excuse, as it still had it's mount intact, and a very limited amount of movement..

Anyway, I put the cups from the urS diff in the 4kq diff. They fit perfectly. I misspoke a bit earlier, as I used drivers half shafts in front. So I do have the passenger rear URQ shaft, and it plugs right into the car right now with the urS cups. The other side is going to be more tricky. I am hoping that my axle shows up with 108mm cups, and I can just order a drivers rear 4kq axle and be done with it. if not, I plan on trying to weld a shorter length axle from a 5kq assembly, and trying it. What is the worse that can happen??

I would just do all my drag racing from a roll, jesus.

Sam