The Project Pad

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/98366.phtml

Not sure the source but it says 36/44.

Excellent info guys. Do the 996tt pads overhang the Audi 323x30 rotors? Are we sure the urs bracket will work on a cq/s2? I am heavily leaning towards the 996tt now. Those brackets look perfect, but the pads concern me since I read here they overhang.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=44560

I have a set of UrS rotors waiting to go on that are very close to or the same hat height as my G60 CQ rotors which are centered under the stock G60 caliper/carriers. I think that's enough to confirm that relationship, I'm running the hubs I bought from you up front.

Sam

Cool, thanks. The track event was a performance driving clinic hosted by buttonwillow, it was fun to be out there with that serious hardware:)

Thinking more about the pad overlap, hopefully that was accounted for in those brackets

Now, my rotors are just b5 rotors. They are b5 s4 rotors in made by racebrake in a two piece configuration and 32mm wide, but there isn't any pad overlap. They fill out the entire surface. These rotors were meant to be drop in replacements for the oem rotor, so they are 321mm rotors.

Thanks, Hank.

Mushasho!, is that the regular 4D0615301J US A8/S8 brake rotor, or is it a European model?

Let me know the applications and I can see if we have the pad/rotor in question laying around the shop. If not, I'll see about ordering one in tomorrow to test for you (we can return them right away).

Sam

audifreakjim wrote:Thanks, Hank.

Mushasho!, is that the regular 4D0615301J US A8/S8 brake rotor, or is it a European model?

The rotor on the 996tt caliper I pictured above were indeed Euro 314x30mm rotors... it's what we had at the moment to finish the task... they were swapped out with the appropriate 323x30 A8/S8 North American rotor the following weekend.

Now the rotor used on the black S8 caliper pictured above is a NA 323x30 A8/S8 Zimmerman coated rotor...

Hope that helps clear up what was going on there in my brake saga...
The question still remains, does any of this UrS fitment actual help out on the B3/4 side of things?

Sent from my NexusHD2 using Tapatalk

Vette front carbon brakes: 390mm/Brembo 6 piston
Vette rear carbon brakes: 380mm/Brembo 4 piston
Enzo front carbon brakes: 380mm/Brembo 6 piston
FXX front carbon brakes: 400mm/Brembo 6 piston

Here is what I decided upon in the end on the S4K Jim.

B8 A4 rotors 8K0-615-301-A 320x30 diamond pillar array with hub side cooling (needed for ducts) I picked these for many reasons but the biggies were A) low offset so they clear the lower balljoints, A8 rotors have too much offset and get too close to the balljoint. B) Good cooling setup, C) Size - fit well under 17's with Wilwood or Alcon calipers, D) Futureproof - B8 means lots of aftermarket support an now available 2 part floating rotors that will be available for a long time unlike A8 stuff, E) Cost - these are cheapish from Audi, like $100.

I designed caliper mount brackets and have the CAD if you want some made LMK

Heres the pics in my thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29308&start=100

Mushasho! wrote:

audifreakjim wrote:Thanks, Hank.

Mushasho!, is that the regular 4D0615301J US A8/S8 brake rotor, or is it a European model?

The rotor on the 996tt caliper I pictured above were indeed Euro 314x30mm rotors... it's what we had at the moment to finish the task... they were swapped out with the appropriate 323x30 A8/S8 North American rotor the following weekend.

Now the rotor used on the black S8 caliper pictured above is a NA 323x30 A8/S8 Zimmerman coated rotor...

Hope that helps clear up what was going on there in my brake saga...
The question still remains, does any of this UrS fitment actual help out on the B3/4 side of things?

Sent from my NexusHD2 using Tapatalk

Very nice, I can't see why this would not work on a B4/CQ. We already know the 323x30 A8/S8 rotor will work on the CQ/B4 as long as you are running Stock or S2 hubs and not the lower offset URS hubs. And we know a stock CQ with the same G60's as a URS requires the same rotor or a rotor with the same hat height. Did you ever figure out if that bracket you are using is the same one Apikol offers for the 993tt calipers?

Saxxy:



RS6 Calipers and 365x34mm Phaeton W12/V10 discs

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15713

The biggest problem I had with Porsche calipers is the cost of the pads, given they are a consumable of a very regular nature, and the rotors to a lesser extent my driving factors were compound availability, pad cost and rotor cost and the Porsche pads were 2x the cost of Wilwood shaped pads.

Haydn, I like your thoughts around brake pad cost, but I actually need the additional rotor depth on the A8/S8 rotor, and I am also under a bit of a time crunch to pull this together so I can make Laguna Seca in two weeks. I think I am going to try and pull together the 996tt combo, and eventually have 2-piece rotors made for them.

Haydn, could you argue that the pads om the Oem intended brembos are thicker than the alcon or stoptechs? The brembo pads are spendy, but the cost seems to offset slightly with pad thickness factored in. Granted, this is also the reason the bloody caliper is so wide and interfers with enkei spokes.

Jim, I just saw these posted on Rennlist. I can get you in touch with the guy if you are interested.

Front Calipers only. no rotors or pads. came off a working Turbo, not an
accident. No damage.
in very good condition; glossy paint and decals nice and white.
lmk if anyone needs pics.
I can send via Iphone text easiest.

$625 OBRO shipped, personal paypal preferred

LOL at that message. What turbo owner doesn't have an iphone4s ? That is a pretty good deal.

Yep, I would love to chat with him, working on a pair for $500

They are all over. While they are nice calipers for 3000lb cars, they struggle to keep up on 3400 lb track rats with upgraded Alpha tial kits making 700whp

Big Jim,
I'm looking way back a year ago in your post about the ball joint extenders.
Do it, they're worth it!
What nobody mentioned is the extenders raises your roll center wich will reduce the roll force in the front.
In other words, it will reduce the mount weight transfer from side to side in front and put more "stress" or weight on the outside rear tire.
When I installed the shortened 90 2 piece struts, I went up 100lbs in spring rate in front (added shorter stiffer Koni race inserts) and down from 1" to 5/8" on the rear bar, the balance barely changed, this shows how much I had to compensate for the drop in front roll rate. The first impression before I made any changes was the steering felt lighter turning into a corner, infact the whole front end had a weird subtle lightness to it!
I had to move the hub out 0.200" to make sure there's enough clearance for the ball joint.
I also learned another lesson, I added almost all my camber at the knuckle insted of moving the top of the struts inward; tilting the struts increases "kingpin inclination".
This has the same effect as caster but at a right angle to straight ahead, it causes camber loss as you turn the outside wheel into a corner, counteracting the effect of caster.
If you don't need alot of static camber because of all the caster (I can only get 3.5 deg), I recomend tilting the tops out a coulpe of degrees and compensating for it at the knuckle.













Attachment ( 29791 ) : Suspension_Geometry_012.jpg

Hey Dan,

Phil and I have been chatting in depth about those ball joint extenders. Unfortunately Dave Stone passed away last year so they are not immediately available, but there is something int he works to make them available again.

My other issue is the deep rotor I will be running after all of this. I think the ball joint will go directly into the rotor. What we really need is new knuckles

I agree on the camber, I am running at 0 right now and gaining everything through 6-7 degrees of castor:) The rear could really use those ball joint extenders though.

audifreakjim wrote:Hey Dan,

Phil and I have been chatting in depth about those ball joint extenders. Unfortunately Dave Stone passed away last year so they are not immediately available, but there is something int he works to make them available again.

My other issue is the deep rotor I will be running after all of this. I think the ball joint will go directly into the rotor. What we really need is new knuckles

I agree on the camber, I am running at 0 right now and gaining everything through 6-7 degrees of castor:) The rear could really use those ball joint extenders though.

I have a little magnetic digital angle gauge I use to check the dynamic camber "swing" at ride height.
I was happy to find I didn't lose any camber, but only picked up a couple of tenths, that is caused by the effect on the 15° of inclination.

Very nice. That is what we need!

If anyone is interested in my old brake setup shoot me a PM. They will fit cq or b3 20v by flipping the adapter around. I am thinking around $500 for boxter calipers brackets and barely used rotors that I can turn down if you want. The bracket setup may or not may to be to your likeing due to it being a modified bira so pm me to discuss.

audifreakjim wrote:Very nice. That is what we need!

If anyone is interested in my old brake setup shoot me a PM. They will fit cq or b3 20v by flipping the adapter around. I am thinking around $500 for boxter calipers brackets and barely used rotors that I can turn down if you want. The bracket setup may or not may to be to your likeing due to it being a modified bira so pm me to discuss.

I may know a guy. Timing may be bad.