The Project Pad

Posted: **Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:54 pm**

oh wow...good luck with all that...

question, why are you placing the fuel cell under the hood?

Posted: **Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:01 pm**

drag race only. small cell, less weight. fuel is ~6.5 lbs per gallon, and i can go with something 1gal if need be. the rabbit custom cell is 2.25 gallons, i get ~5 runs out of it? this one will be roughly the same size.

the reason is to have shorter runs of fuel lines.... its all compact right there. twin 044 pumps, cell, filter, all right in that front corner.

this cars' use is only ever drag race use. never on the street ever.

and the way i analyzed the front end was for support of the bumper for anything forward of the motor mounts. the lightness of the sheetmetal leads to not much cross support, and the frame horns are accordian style for impact. the peice that connected the frame horns to each other is way light, too light for structural support in my mind.

so, i can remake the front end in a different material, giving me the room i need at the same time. and mine will have a bit more structural support than factory. hell, the Euro Cab front bumper is not US spec for crash ratings, so then my thinking is that the mounts for it do not need to be either. if i have impact, i got alot more to worry about than if the front sheetmetal bends a little. remember, i am shooting for 140+ traps.... a high 9 sec would be awesome, too.....

Posted: **Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:24 pm**

speeding-g60 wrote:so, i can remake the front end in a different material, giving me the room i need at the same time. and mine will have a bit more structural support than factory. hell, the Euro Cab front bumper is not US spec for crash ratings, so then my thinking is that the mounts for it do not need to be either. if i have impact, i got alot more to worry about than if the front sheetmetal bends a little. remember, i am shooting for 140+ traps.... a high 9 sec would be awesome, too.....

So, since your not going to be rear ending anyone the only functions of everything in front of where you cut is now supporting the hood, bumper, lights, radiator and providing mounting for any misc stuff.
so long as you brace the struts back to the body and maybe incorporate a snubber (or just REALLY stiff motor and tranny mounts) you do not need much structural support up front.

IE just add more lightness!

Posted: **Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:25 pm**

WTF!

AARON!

Posted: **Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:39 pm**

Mcstiff wrote:So, since your not going to be rear ending anyone the only functions of everything in front of where you cut is now supporting the hood 15lb CF, bumper Euro Cab real light, lights none, radiator and providing mounting for any misc stuff. TROOF

so long as you brace the struts back to the body and maybe incorporate a snubber (or just REALLY stiff motor and tranny mounts) you do not need much structural support up front. i think that the solid mounts are stiff enough. it dont get much stiffer than that

IE just add more lightness!

and my thoughts on the front snubber lean more toward ease of servicing the trans. think about it. drop the trans and the car has a snub mount, the motor stays placed by 3 points. if it had no snub mount, and you drop the trans for say a clutch job, the motor would fall over. just my thoughts.... and i can see it may do a little bit for fore/aft motor movement, but not too much.

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:47 am**

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 6:09 am**

holy crap!! your a crazy man but I think thats a good thing!

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:43 am**

speeding-g60 wrote:and my thoughts on the front snubber lean more toward ease of servicing the trans. think about it. drop the trans and the car has a snub mount, the motor stays placed by 3 points. if it had no snub mount, and you drop the trans for say a clutch job, the motor would fall over. just my thoughts.... and i can see it may do a little bit for fore/aft motor movement, but not too much.

I agree about the snubber; with solid mounts you should be fine. How about selling the EU Cab bumper (is it the revised one?) to me and just run a FG skin?

With composite hood, fenders, and bumper I would skip the OE headlights and just use some light LED driving lights.

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:52 am**

speeding-g60 wrote:man.... i have not been home for 4 hours yet. and already, i have found a new level of commitment to this project. what have i done??? :?

.

damn, and i thought shaving my bay sucked.

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:25 am**

I like it Aaron. I have always wanted to do that to my URQ.

Hank

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:33 am**

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:58 am**

Mcstiff wrote:I agree about the snubber; with solid mounts you should be fine. How about selling the EU Cab bumper (is it the revised one?) to me and just run a FG skin? i would, because for my application it really dont matter. but its already painted.... and shipping stuff like that sux. plus the bumper has none of the lights. you figure it out, find a bumper and show it to me we can talk
With composite hood, fenders, and bumper I would skip the OE headlights and just use some light LED driving lights. no headlights or any lights. maybe a single little foglight or something in case i run friday night at the drags in Portland..... but i doubt it.

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 9:03 am**

i guess you don't have commitment issues after all!

Posted: **Thu Feb 05, 2009 9:05 am**

speeding-g60 wrote:i would, because for my application it really dont matter. but its already painted.... and shipping stuff like that sux. plus the bumper has none of the lights. you figure it out, find a bumper and show it to me we can talk

Hmmmm, Shipping from you is better then from GM!

I was thinking the composite skins that have no back. OR, we could pull a mold from yours and make a skin for racing!!!!!

Posted: **Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:42 pm**

so, i did a little locking. its permanent now. shame too, because this Torsen unit is a pretty nice piece of work. i am looking into a machined part to directly replace the torsen for full time locking like this. the Subaru has something like that available from what i understand.

and i did a little shifter clearancing. this is better for me than modding the rods....

Posted: **Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:44 pm**

I love the smell of hot Sawzall blades in the evening :wink:

PS - get a 4th key ring

Posted: **Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:51 pm**

i dont use a sawzall.... the tool of choice is a Metabo brand Quik-Saw. its basically a high RPM low Torque grinder. uses 6" diameter thin discs (.045?) and cuts insanely quick.

haha, yeah the keyring chain of fury.... is so i dont lose it

Posted: **Sat Feb 07, 2009 9:55 pm**

this place is sometimes confused for a 3 ring circus... but it's 4 rings :wink:

Posted: **Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:30 am**

ok. so i tossed in the mock up block to see how i want to make the motor mounts.

anyone have thoughts on solid my style versus the solid/delrin 034 ones? whats the difference? that delrin crap is pretty stiff. and since the trans is mounted SOLID, it cant get any flex anyhow.

http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... cts_id=434

anyways.... couple pix. dont worry, i have a remote oil filter setup so there is no interference there. and the motor is just in there for mockup purposes.

Posted: **Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:59 pm**

i know youve already got the solid trans mounts, and i havent driven my car yet obviously...but the motorspec mounts i got from 034, are farking solid. like, you could take them out and use them as a weapon solid. with just the two tranny mounts bolted in and the passenger side mount bracket 'resting' in the passenger side mount....the motor didnt move even the slightest bit.

shoot me a link to the remote oil filter setup too please, cause i may need to go that route, cause im not sure if the aeb oil filter hosings bolt to the 06a blocks....cause those put the filter at an angle.

Posted: **Sun Feb 08, 2009 10:56 pm**

the 016's def. came in an A4 at some point. i would think those cant be that hard to find....

although remote is nice too

Posted: **Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:00 pm**

careful with the totally solid mounts... you will make your engine and transmission "structural" in the build of the car, and chassis flexing will put stress on your block and transmission. and i'm sure that it'll have it's own load of stress to deal with just from normal engine operation.
i was going to make my mounts solid and a friend of mine was telling me of some old mopars that guy were making solid mounts, and breaking the trans tail snouts off, so i decided to design a little isolation into my mounting systems to take extra stress off the engine/trans.

Posted: **Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:21 am**

it all depends on how much power is being made, obviously a strong built mopar should be pushing huge amounts of torque and horsepower most likely more power than most of us would be pushing anyway.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2009 12:38 am**

hey Aaron, i found this in my external hard drive today.. thought you might like them..

and i couldn't pass these two up either..
twin turbo big block cheby

almost stock appearing honda crx..

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2009 7:43 am**

yeah, about those videos

i have not forgotten them. i have that same video from the inside of the car, too. goes just like that.... i have a theory of why it happened.... i was lower powered then. only 325whp/269wtq.

theory goes that when i did that burnout, i passed the lights. so i put it in reverse until i was staged. i think the tiny bit of play in slamming it forward snapped it. if i had backed thru the lights and then forward to stage it wouldnt have happened my thoughts are.

and the chevy..... the guy who tunes my car (Brian Macy - HorsePowerConnection) built the manifolds for the headers for it. Vulcan McClellan is the dude.... and ya, that car is impressive. the way it looks coming at you with those two sticking out the hood is daunting.....

http://www.horsepowerconnection.com/Cus ... lellan.htm

The Project Pad

Aarons Drag CQ: 3-29 anodized and welded stuff. AN lines