The Project Pad

Since I'm getting serious about an 01E, lets get serious about hammering out some of the details of fitting one in a 200 20v.

I'd search for this stuff (I tried actually), but the search feature seems to suck since the forum switch.

First thing's first. What is the difference in axle length and how is that achieved?

Second of all, does driveshaft length change and how to achieve that?

Third, tranny mounts...

Fourthly, shift linkage

I will get you some pics and details tonight..

This should get you started (scroll down to where it says transmission):

http://www.forums.justfourrings.com/vie ... 1797#18598

http://www.forums.justfourrings.com/viewtopic.php?t=275

Thanks guys, can't wait to see what you have for me Cary

loxxrider wrote:Since I'm getting serious about an 01E, lets get serious about hammering out some of the details of fitting one in a 200 20v.

I'd search for this stuff (I tried actually), but the search feature seems to suck since the forum switch.

First thing's first. What is the difference in axle length and how is that achieved?

Second of all, does driveshaft length change and how to achieve that?

Third, tranny mounts...

Fourthly, shift linkage

Axle length? I measured and they are the same length. Driveshaft? same length.
Ok I was in the middle of an AAN swap into my 200 and have been planning on using the 01E(more on this later). The S4 subframe and tranny mounts are different, so I basically just cut the mounting "ears" off the subframe and was going to weld them to my 200 sf..See pics. The DS is the same, and the front axles measure out to the same length.
Shifter? just remove the entire shifter/linkage assembly from the ur-s and install it into the 200---if you are using a 5-speed 01E..6-speed, you will need to use the linkage from the donor car or custom fab something.
I have so much going on right now that I may just sock the AAN in with the 016 for now. I just want to get the car back on the road, I can always go back and take this project up later..
You will either need the OEM dual-mass clutch setup, or ditch that garbage and use a 7a FW and 200 clutch setup..

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I am not sure how accurate that information is. The 01e is physically a wider transmission. It may have the same axle lengths as the urS, but the urS also has a wider track.

If that were not the case, I would just use my stock URQ axles, as they are 108mm inner flanges as well, and all would be well... I hope I am wrong

Right, and I'm talking 6 sp. 01E with wide first, so I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not.

demensionally they are all the same. I'll call today Chris

So basically what it comes down to is that the 01E is wider than the 016, so I need shorter axles. Also, need proper splines and or CV's. Ugh.

I'd love to get away from the 200 20v outer CV's since they are unobtanium. So would need new CV's with splines to work with the 200 hubs and then CV's on the inside of the axles that have CV's splined for the 01E.

So how do we solve this puzzle??? I know someone has done this. Custom shafts? That still leaves the outer CV problem though.

I thing that for American audi 200 20v have 01E five gear transmition, and European have ADZ or ADY gearbox .

soo if you have 01e 5 gears , you can easy put sixth gear from audi RS4 , and without any problem have 6 gear transmition..

I have problem because have ADZ , and I want 6 gear on my car...

I will measure both tranny widths tonight, I think I did this before but I forgot what I came up with..However, that won't help if you are using a 6spd, don't have one of those to compare but maybe someone can jump in..
Also, I know the rear track in the S4 is same as V8, so it is wider, but are you sure the front track is? I could have sworn I swapped an S front strut housing into a 200 once upon a time..You could also look at a 20v front axle to shee if it is shorter.
Can't really check the dimensions of the housings, as I hauled about 1900lbs of crap tho the recycler last week, and those strut housings were in the mix..

The B5 S4 01E and the 5 spd should be the same dimensions according to Hank, so that might help

They are the same from an axle perspective, but do have slightly different bell housings. Have a drill handy and be ready to ditch the second alignment dowel.

The 01E is wider than the 016 and the front output flanges are also offset to the drivers side.

I've done a few V8 01E conversions and I used the urS4 drivers axle on the right side of the V8, and shortened another drivers side axle by an amount I can't remember, but it worked well.

There are some slight differences in the early and late model cases but for the most part can be modified to work.

The B5 01E won't allow you to use the drivers side dowel pin on a 5 cylinder. The 5 speed 01E is what we use for our early 6 speed builds.

how did you shorten it? just chop it and weld it back together?


i cant imagine being able to get good penetration without warping the hell out of the axle

yeah, I was wondering that also. Seems like it would be really hard to get it straight.

Mentosman42 wrote:how did you shorten it? just chop it and weld it back together?


i cant imagine being able to get good penetration without warping the hell out of the axle

Cut it then make an insert, press and weld insert into shaft, then straighten. I didn't do it I had a machine shop do it. Runout was within .0005, which was better than the shaft was before shortening it!

dang nice!!

how much torque was the car producing that you did the shaft chop on?


i mean if this stood up to 450-500 torque it might be the best option, UR-Q(and rear 4k i believe?) axles can easily take the punishment if you can get them straight after welding.

There are two ways to shorten the axle---cut it in the middle and re-weld, or take the outer cv off, shorten it there and have it splined..A friend of mine owns a machine shop, when he did a VR conversion into a MK1 rabbit, he used the latter procedure..

I'd love to go with some custom axles for the future, but I bet thats not cheap. I do like the latter idea you listed Cary.

i would be afraid to respline it because arnt the splines hardened? i mean you can reharden the ends but i dont know anywhere around me that could actually do that properly.

as long as you know someone that can correctly respline it and harden it that sounds like the better way to go afaik

I will find out the exact procedure he used, he is planning on going forced induction on the rabbit, so I am sure he took the strength of the axle into consideration. I trust his judgement b/c he has a very successful machine shop with two huge CNC's and a lot of big machines/welders, with clients like Diebold. He also is a VW and Audi Certified Master Tech. If the guy tells me it's strong enough, then I take his word for it.
The guy would probably do the axles for you t a reasonable price..

care to ask him for me? New splines would make everything so much easier. Then I could use any CV's I want!

/\ Sure but we have to also get the lengths..
Also you have a front and rear subframe bushing on the way