The Project Pad

AngryTaco wrote:

AudiSport4000 wrote:oh deer

Im confused. What do chicken of the forest have to do with turbos?

*cracks whip* GET BUSY BOI!!!

I'm going! I have a helper now with this car so either things are going to move faster with the mechanical, or I'm going to be getting nothing done at all (on the car at least)

So you are going to make your 20v head into a 20v head by re-shaping the CC? Why not just drop on a 3b head an be done with it? You will have the same low CR ratio in the end.

It is painful to sit back and watch this.

jim, what do you know about the benefits of 20v vs. 20v or limits of the 20v head anyways?
oh wait......

Maybe because I'm reserving the 20v for another project.

Ok, that's less painful if you keep yourself from pushing the 20v too far and use it for what it is.

audifreakjim wrote:So you are going to make your 20v head into a 20v head by re-shaping the CC? Why not just drop on a 3b head an be done with it? You will have the same low CR ratio in the end.

It is painful to sit back and watch this.

yes!!!

has no one told taco, that theres no cookie at the end of the rainbow for 4xxwhateveritmakes WHP?
just 20v that lemon already!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not trying to hate here man, but seriously, you need to just find a used 7a head or 3B head (talk to Dan) and throw the beast on that block to make some real power. You'll be fighting the design of the 20v head until the day you die if you keep with it.

Pay no mind, to the "haters," Taco! Real true's stay 20v for life! ;-p

Stick to the 20v, but be smart about it.

pilihp2 wrote:Stick to the 20v, but be smart about it.

+ realistic. Do what YOU wanna do. I'm a fan of both 20v and 20v motors.

I used to run off almost entirely spite. But yeah… it would be pretty cheap to make your power goals with a junkyard head….

#3 piston is toast. Will post pics later tonight

bummer man. what happened?

Still not going to get a wideband for this thing?
I'll sell you an entire 5ktq....but the block also needs work most likely

I have a 3b engine with no intake manifold a few other things (still has wire harness and ecu) sitting in the garage, and I also have a 7a head minus camshafts right next to it. Also, I have a 200 20vt that runs and drives that im going to part one of these days. Has fresh valve job with AAN HG and ARP headstuds and exhaust studs. Just an FYI

40v4kq wrote:I have a 3b engine with no intake manifold a few other things (still has wire harness and ecu) sitting in the garage, and I also have a 7a head minus camshafts right next to it. Also, I have a 200 20vt that runs and drives that im going to part one of these days. Has fresh valve job with AAN HG and ARP headstuds and exhaust studs. Just an FYI

Buy that and don't look back. You'll love your newfound power gains and reliability.

Holy fuck!

HOLY SHIT MAN!!! That is worse than the pistons I pulled from my free MC1 block, and the rings were melted into the pistons!

That should buff out

10 miles into the cruise, I get on it hard going up hill and then I lose all power with a HUGE smokescreen suddenly behind the car. Check the engine....fucking igloo popped off the CIS dizzy. The cylinder rings were already smoking, so I pretty much expediated the death of the current ones.

So igloo partially came off allowing a lean mixture for some period of time while you gunned it up the hill? If it suddenly popped off why all the damage? Wouldn't it just cause a sudden fuel cutoff because of the metering plate closing? Or did you start killing it as soon as you turned up the boost becuase the Natrix chip has too much timing for the cylinder pressures that you are running?

I'm only running 14 degrees at torque peak at 16 to 18 psi with an even 11.0:1 AFR. With 92 octane It keeps the det light from blinking at me under most conditions (unless I lug it up a hill or have bad gas) And I don't have "the cam" or a K24-7400. Just a lowly old K26.

aren't you also running mc2 pistons with mc1 ignition?
I did this once with EFI and chipped mc1 ecu, it was nocky nocky nock.

dana wrote:aren't you also running mc2 pistons with mc1 ignition?
I did this once with EFI and chipped mc1 ecu, it was nocky nocky nock.

Yes I was. I never had a knock problem even with the increased boost. I routinely checked the spark plugs for signs of knock and never had issues.

I'm honestly not sure if the det started after I fixed the initial boost issue or what. I have an idea of how I am going to go about now with the rebuild or engine swap. That's all I'm going to say for now but I believe the route I am going to go will surprise most people.

two days and no drama?
is everything ok?