The Project Pad

BTW- here is the picture I found from an Audiworld DIY:

AngryTaco wrote:Dot on back of cam gear lines up with top of valve cover gasket on driver side

The "0" on flywheel should be halfway covered by the "ledge" in the bellhousing.

Adjust the Distributor rotor to where it faces #1 spark plug wire.

Adjust timing with a timing light after starting up.

I lined the flywheel up on the "0", and the cam gear up with the notch in the cover, but the distributor rotor is facing the wrong direction (and not by 180* - more like 160* or so). Looking in the 20v section of my Bentley is looks like I'm doing everything right, but it really doesn't seem that way.

One thought I had was that at some point maybe the distributor was installed with the wrong alignment, but it was running well prior to the swap so something must have been right.....

Are you sure you didnt put the cap on backwards? Or criss cross wires if you removed them?

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_s ... g.html#tim

Read that. 20v turbo is same concept on N/A except you need to adjust timing after setting it.

AngryTaco wrote:http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/eng.html#tim

Read that. 20v turbo is same concept on N/A except you need to adjust timing after setting it.

Hmmm... they show a mark on the back of the cam sprocket- the one I was using is on the front. Looks like I need to check the back of the sprocket for a mark.

Aaaaaand I'm an idiot- mark is in fact on the back of the sprocket. No idea what the identical mark on the front is for. On the bright side, I confirmed that have it set correctly.

lol. I had a feeling that is what you were doing.

That's why I wrote "Dot on BACK of cam gear"

Lol yeah thanks- I'm just amazed I managed to back into the correct timing without using the mark. Set the ignition timing and it's all back to normal. Now I just need to find the 1.8 bar oil pressure switch; it's only working intermittently so half the times I have drive the car, it goes off every time I go above 2k rpm... which is really annoying.

Did you do an oil pressure test to confirm that it is indeed the switch and not actual pressure dropping?

its showing over 5 bar on the auxilary gauge

Ah. I'm fairly sure you can pick up new switches for fairly cheap from any general part store. It is a common part

Are you sure the two spades on the pressure switch by the coolant neck aren't reversed? If so I'd suggest the single pin oil pressure sensor just above the check valve as a culprit.

Yea, single pin sensor on drivers side of block. I hated that thing.

When the engine is warm does the oil pressure drop down at idle (normal)? The reason I'm asking is if the gauge sensor is shorted out it may peg the gauge over 5 bar all the time (this is how my 200 was when I got it).

Yep, gauge sensor works great, it's just the switch that's bad. It's only a $2 part, just need to order it. Thanks for valuing me in to location- I took a quick look last night but only saw the blue .3 bar one.

So the 20v is up and running, but still not great. It stumbles above 3k RPM and the power is not great. I haven't accurately advanced timing (don't have a timing light), adjusted fueling w/ a gas analyzer, or fixed the vacuum advance on the distributor, though all of these things would definitely help.

I don't like the CIS system, and even when running correctly the 20v just doesn't do much for power, so naturally I'm thinking about a swap of some sort and not putting any more money into this engine. Here is what I see for options (I would want to used stock EFI):

-12v V6 (172 HP): never really paid any attention to this engine before, but a crashed 90 is readily available for a few bills on CL so it would be cheap
-VR6 (160-180 HP): a bit of a science project to mate w/ the trans, would require a lot more work finding parts and likely end up costing over $1k
-7a (164 HP): bolts right in, great 5 cylinder sound, goes for ever, but none available locally at the moment (that I have found). I think this would be the most "true" to the car
-1.8T (160-180 HP): lots of cheap A4 donors to be had on CL, small, light, lots of tuning options, AFAIK it bolts right up to the trans (making motor mounts is not an issue), but I have some strange sentimental reservation against it.. not sure why
-10VT - not considering this because they are all CIS and I want stock EFI

What does everyone suggest? Any options I'm missing? Any motors people want to donate to the project?

BTW- I replaced the front control arm bushings this morning as the original ones were shot. The more I work on this thing the more I'm amazed by it's condition; this thing is the definition of "Rust Free". The 29 year old control arm bolts I pulled out where still perfect shiny gold and looked like they had just come out of the package. Freaking awesome. Seriously.

16vt is an option, best bang for the buck is probably 1.8t, VR will be $1000 for a clutch...that car has an ng stock correct? Ghetto 20vt is an option if it is. I think you might be able to just put a 7a head on it, or just efi the stock 20v...

I hadn't even considered 16vt- weren't the 16v all CIS though? Then I'm into messing with standalone management to get EFI.

This car has a 2.2l KX block; can a 7a head be swapped on? I like the idea of it, but at that point it seems like not much more work to just swap in a whole 7a.

Agreed in bang-for-buck on the 1.8t. They have never really done anything for me before, but they are so plentiful, cheap, and easily tunable that it's becoming an appealing option.

I realized I also left 20vt off the list of options, but I had already written that off as too expensive for this project.

Do a Dodge Small Block.....I hear they sound pretty cool

AngryTaco wrote:Do a Dodge Small Block.....I hear they sound pretty cool

you provide the motor, I'll make it happen

Id start by figuring out how much you wanna toss at the car money wise, then go from there. Lots of neat options, but the depth of your pocketbook is always a good starting point.

From car-part.com: http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi? ... ge=1&iKey=

Engine
Audi Coupe Quattro (DOHC),MT,2.3L/CORE/ IN PARTS C-DATE: 20131001, BLU-GRY 3850 $Call Weber's Auto Parts USA-WA(Yakima) Request_Quote 1-800-876-4711 Request_Insurance_Quote
89

Thanks Alex!

The question of how much to put into it is top of mind. It's in great shape, but I also know that I won't keep it for very long so I don't want to make a big project of it. I should really just get it running properly so I can drive it regularly then decide.

TDI swap it and use it as a commuter!

$300 ABZ with harness/acc
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/4747660674.html

$700 1.8T full swap (I don't know if this is a good deal or not, I don't know 1.8T prices)
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/4749057936.html