The Project Pad

You want a 6002VSR sealed bearing. The seals in the bearing pic are rubber and won't hold up well to the heat of the engine and clutch. You want one with viton seals.

DE80q wrote:You want a 6002VSR sealed bearing. The seals in the bearing pic are rubber and won't hold up well to the heat of the engine and clutch. You want one with viton seals.

Thanks. Do you (or anyone) know if the one sold by 034MS has the viton seals?

https://store.034motorsport.com/audi-01 ... 5276b.html

Going only by the color of the seal, that should be viton. I priced out the viton sealed bearing through by job and they were about $32 a piece. That's with our bulk rate discount haha.

Spent some time last night working on the replacement 7a. My plan is to clean up the block, give it a coat of engine paint, and freshen up all of the upper gaskets. Things were going well for most of the night until I got to the coolant flange on the head. I managed to mess up all three of the bolts. I rounded off 2 of the hex heads and the other one sheared off. So, that should be fun to deal with. Decided to call it quits for the night. I'm tempted to just leave it on as is, but worried about the one that sheared off.





Trying to stay somewhat organized.

The borked bolts needed some persuading, but they didn’t put up too much of a fight.

I ended up buying a bucket-top parts cleaner with a submersible pump and a flow through brush. It works pretty well, but requires water based degreaser.

Got distracted and worked a little on the valve cover.

One more thing checked off the to-do list. Rebuilt the shift linkage. I'm cheap and wanted to try the DIY method, so I followed this Audiworld DIY.

Started with this.


Ended with this.


And used a few pieces from the hardware store and amazon to get there.




Here's a list of the parts I used in case anyone needs them.

From the hardware store (Ace has the best selection in my area):

• (2) Nylon spacers 1/2" ID 5/8" OD 1/2" long
• (2) split steel spacers 3/8” ID 1/2" OD 3/4" long (cut down to about 13.5mm)
• (2) 5/8" electrical grommets
• (2) M6x1.0 16mm allen heads(used to bolt u joint assembly to rod)
• (4) M5x.8 10mm for holding box together

From Amazon:

• (2) 25mm x 10mm threaded sleeves. Threaded for M6x1.0. They come in a 10 pack. Joined together with an M6x1.0 bolt that I cut the head off of. I added this to my list of parts because I couldn't tap the ends of the steel pin.

Another slow progress, boring update...

Serviced the injectors this weekend.



And one of the reasons for the lack of any real progress. Been fighting the leaves the past couple of weekends.

Have a few more parts to clean up, but I should be putting everything back together soon.

Seems like the parts to be painted just keep coming.

jbrentd wrote:Seems like the parts to be painted just keep coming.

I might have missed it but what finish are you using?

MikeB25 wrote:I might have missed it but what finish are you using?

Valve cover is VHT wrinkle finish. Block is POR-15 engine pint kit in “aluminum”. Other parts are VHT engine enamel in “cast iron”.

Made some more progress today. Exhaust header, brackets, alternator are on. Also torqued down a new valve cover gasket.

Anyone have any tips on removing the pulley from the power steering pump? I have a puller, but it started to bend the edges of the pulley.

Got a decent amount done today. Engine is ready to come off the stand so I can bolt up the flywheel and clutch. Got all of the accessories, sensors, coolant connections, new t-stat, breather pipes, engine mounts, etc. on today.

I’ve been fighting a seized or frozen drain plug, but several rounds of heat and PB Blaster proved successful today. I was worried I was going to round it off and have to get creative.

Also refreshed the heat shield on the AC line that runs from the dryer to the firewall. Found this one with Velcro on Amazon and cut it to fit the length.

Old


New

I'm assuming you mean the oil drain plug. I have never had good luck getting them out. I order a new drain plug when I'm doing the oil change. I think I've gone through 3 drain plugs in as many years...

DE80q wrote:I'm assuming you mean the oil drain plug. I have never had good luck getting them out. I order a new drain plug when I'm doing the oil change. I think I've gone through 3 drain plugs in as many years...

Yes, the oil drain plug. I used to do the same on my B5’s. Might have to do the same on this one.

The place that resurfaced my flywheel gave me a shim. Not sure it’s needed though. Are there specs on this sort of thing to know for sure?



Also discovered that I’ll need a new radiator. I’d like to find a Hella/Behr radiator, but I’ve only been able to find them on eBay in Europe with long ship times. Does anyone know where to find one in the states?

One more step closer. Got the replacement 7A bolted up today. This was my first time doing this, so it took a lot longer than it should have. It felt like wrestling a gorilla at times, but once it was lined up right, it slid right it.

jbrentd wrote:It felt like wrestling a gorilla at times, but once it was lined up right, it slid right it.

There's a reason you always remember your first!!

jbrentd wrote:The place that resurfaced my flywheel gave me a shim. Not sure it’s needed though. Are there specs on this sort of thing to know for sure?



Also discovered that I’ll need a new radiator. I’d like to find a Hella/Behr radiator, but I’ve only been able to find them on eBay in Europe with long ship times. Does anyone know where to find one in the states?

Ron Davis sells a new unit - that is who used to make them for 034 before they stopped carrying them. You can order direct from Ron Davis.


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Ron Davis Radiator...


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FFF wrote:Ron Davis Radiator...


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Thanks. I ended up buying a Behr/Hella radiator.

No problem!


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Itching to get this thing fired up. Just need to bolt up the starter, battery and exhaust, change the TB/WP/pulley, and fill up the fluids.



Here are some things I noticed when installing the bag o' snakes on my '91.
- There are clearance issues with the AC hard line running from the dryer to the evaporator and the heat shield. Had to trim the heat shield a bit. I've heard that the AC line on the earlier cars runs in the fender.
- If you want to use the stock airbox, there are clearance issues between the inlet mixer valve/flap piece and the heat shield. The early style mixer might resolve this issue...not sure. Or trim the heat shield further.
- The vacuum line from the ISV boot to the charcoal canister check valve comes up a little short. I think this is due to how much bigger the tubular header is vs the cast manifold. I added a short piece of 5/16" vacuum hose and a coupling to close the gap.









Bought myself some new exhaust for Christmas.

I managed to get some time in last night while the wife was watching the Bachelor with some friends. Got the timing belt and water pump done and some other small things. I ended up removing the crank cog and the harmonic balancer together since the hex head bolts were starting to round off. It looks like a previous owner mixed some incompatible coolants as some point. I'll make sure to do a few rounds of fill & flush before I go in with fresh coolant.



I couldn't stand the thought of having an old crusty rear timing cover under there, even if no one would ever know. Especially since this one would be sitting on the shelf.



Timing all looks good and I should be able to fill it up with some fluids and give it a go!

This project is just motoring along nicely! Enjoying the updates, look forward to more.