The Project Pad

Afterthought wrote:That spot where you removed the center seat support . Looks like you got it just fine but for the future- when you are welding something real thin and trying to avoid blowing through, you can use a thick piece of scrap as a backer . I’ve used aluminum before but I think I recall hearing the preferred method is copper . A bonus is It will act as a a heat sink too.

Never thought of that, makes sense I will remember that for next time!!


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A cupboard drawer hinge or two might work well for your purposes, depending on how heavy the panel is. Soft/self-close being a nice bonus.

PRY4SNO wrote:A cupboard drawer hinge or two might work well for your purposes, depending on how heavy the panel is. Soft/self-close being a nice bonus.

Dustin has gone full bougie on us now.

I agree with hiding the wires too. I'm kind of kicking myself for not looking in to the lizard skin more.

Lol - yes he is!

I'm thinking maybe something like this.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3174

Considering some 5052 aluminum with a carbon fiber veneer (1/16" aluminum - the veneer will add to the rigidity with the right adhesive)...

Started picking away at the chassis wiring on the front end.

Everything in the engine bay will be protected with Raychem DR25 shrink tube with Kapton tape and some ResinTech rt 125 to seal everything up...



Lots of zip ties to hold everything and manage junctions, then I’ll pull it back out of the car, cut the tubing and put it all together before applying heat...

Good progress this weekend... didn’t check supplies so I couldn’t finish up the harness.



The Kapton tape does several things. It provides strain relief, protects from heat if you are doing hot molding, covers the wire so that when the ResinTech goes on you can peel it of a little easier... hopefully I never have to!!



I also use it to hold the wire together and to help form bends.



It’s important to plan how your shrink tube goes on as you do your wiring... I always Start working from the largest diameter wire, down to the smallest. Once all of the tube is on then I start at the with heat at the smallest shrink tube and work back up (if that makes sense)...

ResinTech at each joint...



The ResinTech should come out the end when heat is applied to the tubing.



I figured out that I have gotten very slow at all of this! Way out of practice...



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This looks so clean. You have made a hell of a lot of progress on this wiring.

Thanks - if I was working a little more efficiently it should take around 40 hours to do the entire car... it will likely take me 60 to 80... I am very pleased with the progress though!

I haven’t decided if I am going to use the concentric wiring for the engine harness... a lot more time and it results in a really nice feel to the harness... but way more work!


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Those are the kinds of extra input and efforts that really, really, pay off in the long run.

I've had it in mind to completely redo all the wiring because A) OEM rat's nest, and B) 30+ years of winters and heat cycles have the wiring brittle and abused looking in some places. So that will be a primary task in v2.0 when the time comes. Will definitely be referring back to your work.

PRY4SNO wrote:Those are the kinds of extra input and efforts that really, really, pay off in the long run.

I've had it in mind to completely redo all the wiring because A) OEM rat's nest, and B) 30+ years of winters and heat cycles have the wiring brittle and abused looking in some places. So that will be a primary task in v2.0 when the time comes. Will definitely be referring back to your work.

You nailed exactly why I decided to rewire - even though my coupe was in exceptional shape there were numerous connectors that were failing that were causing minor electrical issues I just didn’t want to have to deal with.

We're you able to source NOS connectors or are you using newer style connectors? That is, assuming you're not reusing the brittle original connectors.

I have only just started looking for connectors - the only ones that I may have to potentially reuse are the ones that plug into lights etc... (headlights, turnsignals, fog lights)... if anyone has part numbers / source for them that would be great. If the are NLA then I will make due as thes connectors are in ok shape...

Just spent some time looking through this, very nice work. Love the attention to the wiring, very inspiring. I would definitely do bulkhead connectors. Not only do they make removing the harness/engine easy, it makes changing ECU's much easier down the road. Just redo the in-car portion and you are done.

Thanks!

audifreakjim wrote:Just spent some time looking through this, very nice work. Love the attention to the wiring, very inspiring. I would definitely do bulkhead connectors. Not only do they make removing the harness/engine easy, it makes changing ECU's much easier down the road. Just redo the in-car portion and you are done.

I would be interested in some recommendations for bulkhead connectors. A big deutsch? Something more OEM?

MikeB25 wrote:

audifreakjim wrote:Just spent some time looking through this, very nice work. Love the attention to the wiring, very inspiring. I would definitely do bulkhead connectors. Not only do they make removing the harness/engine easy, it makes changing ECU's much easier down the road. Just redo the in-car portion and you are done.

I would be interested in some recommendations for bulkhead connectors. A big deutsch? Something more OEM?

PRY4SNO wrote:

MikeB25 wrote:

audifreakjim wrote:Just spent some time looking through this, very nice work. Love the attention to the wiring, very inspiring. I would definitely do bulkhead connectors. Not only do they make removing the harness/engine easy, it makes changing ECU's much easier down the road. Just redo the in-car portion and you are done.

I would be interested in some recommendations for bulkhead connectors. A big deutsch? Something more OEM?

Given how important the connection would be for a reliable engine operation if you are doing connectors IMHO they should be good... Deutsch connectors for sure check that box... once again, just my opinion.

But expensive...

https://www.milspecwiring.com/55-WAY-20 ... _1594.html


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Finally mount the meth pump... took a while to decide where...




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Only way that could be any cleaner is with a black anodized bracket.

Well done.

PRY4SNO wrote:Only way that could be any cleaner is with a black anodized bracket.

Well done.

Thanks! No one will ever see it.. I’ve stopped Messing with re forming the liner... it’s close but can’t quite get it there....


Moved onto the catch can bracket (also plan on putting light and fan relays on it). I’m thinking I may veneer it, was going to go with body colour...

Still picking away at wiring - had to wait for more shrink tubing to come in...

FFF wrote:Still picking away at wiring - had to wait for more shrink tubing to come in...

Ok nice I like how you ran it through the fenderwell . Nice touch

Afterthought wrote:Ok nice I like how you ran it through the fenderwell . Nice touch

Thanks!! Certainly takes longer to pre run wires but generally the result is better... of course I will likely forget something and end up with rework!

Accusump showed up...



I think I may install it behind the engine.