The Project Pad

Audilard wrote:

quattro87 wrote:

This is only the second time that i have seen a 20vt in real life, and the first time I have heard one in real life!!!!

He's lying......I let him take the TT 20v on a date just Friday night. Wrong kind of 20v you say!!

Wait a minute. You mean he went on a date instead of working on the car?? Slacker!! :wink:

Good to hear it running. Although I could have gone without the "Dad in the underwear" bit. Bad, bad images.

Yep, and she is hot!!!!! although she didnt know what an audi was...

Ok, so thanks for the encouraging words!!!!! I will keep you guys updated! Youtube is amazing!! I hadnt even heard of it when i left for brasil, and now you can find anything, and post anything on that site!! WOot woot!!! ill post some vids in the future!!

Hank

:woowoo: :woowoo: Congrats on the start hank! It's all uphill from here!

Sam

Had the downpipe off today to make the exhaust up.. It took all of about 2 minutes to take out... Gosh, I am surrounded by v-band sluts(you know who you are) here on motorgeek, and so I couldnt be outdone.. It is super nice being able to take the downpipe off in two minutes.... anywho,

Hank

Two years and counting.... Not bad, you make me feel good about where I am at now, I just started to really dig into 1983 #900438 Montego Black, I have had the car for a few years now, the first stop was the frame machine to check it for true, couple years ago now, must be 3 years now, turns out everything was OK after all, it just needed the front support panel to be replaced and some welding on the shock tower.... I have elected to stick with every thing stock, except for what can not be bought for a reasonable price original NOS should I need it. The interior is pretty weathered so I have stripped it down, pulled the carpet and the headliner (sagging horse hair clump), and door panels out, but it's in good condition body wise no rust otherwise and should clean up nice. I have the stock WX block it is all machined ready for new life, I'll post as I progress... I can see your well past the factory specs on those factory ball joints also, make sure they are nice and tight what ever you use....

Attachment ( 9526 ) : KIF_0241.JPG

I fixed the broken strut and we were off to the Body shop under V8 diesel power... or was that V10?

Attachment ( 9527 ) : KIF_0461.JPG

Nice job on the dp. Looks great. I love my v-bands too!!

OK, so I pulled an all nighter last night, and at 6 in the morning, I was getting ready for hte maiden voyage, hopped in, and started it up, idled nicely, and things were looking good... That is untill I went to put it in gear... THe clutch isnt disengaging.. IT wont let me get into gear.. If I put the car in gear, and push the clutch in, and try to start it, the car lurches forward as if no clutch was working... I dont really get it.. The slave is pretty darn new, and was working great when the car was running before.. I always thought that the Clutch Master had a symptom of a dead pedal, so I ruled that out.. The clutch feel actually dosnt feel bad, but does kindof feel too easy to push for it being a stage 3+... I pressure bled the Cluthc system, but I didnt do anything in reverse untill this morning when it wasnt working, I then made a jig to force fluid back into the slave and up to the resevor, which worked nicely, and I was able to put a bunch of fluid back into the res. SO that makes me rule out the whole clutch bleeding possibliity!!

Is my thinking flawwed?????!! I am using the 200 20vt Clutch package from Spec, on a 7a aluminum flywheel.. Pretty much the same thing I used on my old 20v setup..

Hank

i know what your problem is... and you're not gonna like it.


your clutch disc hub is bottomed out on the input shaft splines and that happens to not be far enough back to give the disc room to freewheel from the thicker 7A flywheel. i went over this a few years ago on my car and i guess you missed this?

you need to remove about 3-4mm of the splines on the trans side of hte clutch disc... or, buy the 016 alu. version of the flywheel.

So to get the Spec packagee to work with a stock 7A flywheel you have to machine it down? Is that mentioned when purchased?

I guess it says on the 034 website that with the 200 20vt kit you have to use a stock 200 20vt flywheel or the aluminum one. For the 01A or 01E tranny you can use the stock 7A flywheel.

I *may* have my 200 20v flywheel.....may.

The splines have already been machined to work with the 016/20v combo that was in the car last. This is the same trans and flywheel, just different pressure plate and disk.

Like I said, this is the setup that was used on the 20v motor with the same tranny and hte same block.. The only thing that changed is the pressure plate and the disk.. The 7a flywheel mod was done to remove that excess material to let it seat properly, but lets supose that for some reason it is not, would my symptoms be a clutch that dosnt want to release? Does it pin the disk up against the flywheel and not allow disengagement? That owuld almost make sense because honestly, the pedal feels pretty darn good, and acts like the slave and everything is mechanically working, and you can feel the linear spring of the PP it seems like. but no workie..

THanks for the comments..

I guess we missed machining the new disk.....Hank you were just wanting an excuse to remove the 3+ and replace it with the extra clamp 3+.

Didnt Mowafy have to do something similar on his 20vt?

So I was asking about TO and Pilot bearings and got.... I'm going ot have to machine the Trans side of my Spec Stage 3+ clutch disk, coupled to an AAN with a 3B spec aluminum flywheel. Isn't the 3B thinner than the 7A flywheel?

Is that to me nate?

I have the 7a flywheel with a 200 20v pressure plate and disk.. The 7a flywheel has been machined down the 3 mm to clear the splines... however, maybe a little more is required..

I went and drove the car the other night by running with the car enough to coax it into 1st gear and then rev match gears to get into lower ones.. I tried to slip the clutch to get it to break in, kindof like what was done on the a4 vr6 car.. but to no avail.. My brakes feel soft and like there is air somewhere, so i am going to bleed everything one last time tonight, and see where that puts me...
while driving, I can push the clutch in which will not allow me to switch gears, but if I am accelerating, It will start to slip, like it is halfway engaged.. THe pedal really feels great though, that is the part that kindof baffles me....

Hank

hank, drill a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing and make sure that when the clutch pedal is depressed... that the disc freely turns. i left the hole open in my old tranny and never had any issues, but if it bugs you, just drill the hole in a common plug size. i think i used a 1.5" hole saw. that's a plenty

this will tell you 100% whether or not the disc is hung up or not according to the PP coming completely off the disc. (i think i had like 1-3mm of clearance with the pedal depressed)

thats a good idea and I think I will take you up on that idea! Got pictures of where you ended up drilling?

Hank

Here's my combo, this might help you make some sense of this. I'm running an AAN spec PP, 016 style disk and early 016 (4kq) TO bearing, I had to extend the clutch slave pushrod about 1/2". I've been thinking putting in the later 3B style TO bearing would fix the issue because it's deaper and contacts the PP sooner. You might be running into a similar problem. I popped out the slave, ground down a big allen head cap screw to make an extension, taped it to the slave to hold it in place durring instalation, and well, reinstalled. It's actually still in the car like this. I think Marc or another nut around here actually modded the rod itself.

audifreakjim wrote:Here's my combo, this might help you make some sense of this. I'm running an AAN spec PP, 016 style disk and early 016 (4kq) TO bearing, I had to extend the clutch slave pushrod about 1/2". I've been thinking putting in the later 3B style TO bearing would fix the issue because it's deaper and contacts the PP sooner. You might be running into a similar problem. I popped out the slave, ground down a big allen head cap screw to make an extension, taped it to the slave to hold it in place durring instalation, and well, reinstalled. It's actually still in the car like this. I think Marc or another nut around here actually modded the rod itself.

Wow, thanks Jim, that actually is what it feels like!! An extention on the throwout might be what is needed.. I had TO bearing that came with the clutch, but It wasnt a bolt on afair, and the TO on there was only 5k miles old.. I should have replaced it it sounds like.. I will try that mod tonight actually!! I will get back to you....

Jim you mean to tell me that you have tape holding it together after years of use? What kind of tape is this!!!!! impressive..

Marc, wanna chime in and tell me your mod on the slave rod?

Hank

It was actually 3in1 oil and some gauze pads holding it together.

Here's Marc's
http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... &start=675

perfect Jim, thanks again!

Hank

Woops, asleep at the console. thanks for linking into my thread Jim

marc or Jim.. what did the pedal feel like prior to making the rod mod? Would it not go into gear??