The Project Pad

i thought of that idea too RS, but what about when launching the car at the drag strip....i figured the fuel will want to go towards the back of the tank...which would be the opposite way of the sump no?


thats what i didnt think thatd be a good idea.

unless aaron is running like 1/10 full on a tank then I dont think he will be suffering from fueling issues due to starvation.

but this isnt about aaron and his fulez.

im talking about my cell for my trunk here. if the sump is pointed towards the front of the car, once i launch....gas will be going away from the sump. which i thought would be bad period.

yeah, i think the Wiz got a lil confused. i run a small custom cell underhood.

but having the outlets towards the rear is the way to go. fuel slosh. i would think 1/4 tank should be good.

i am just trying to recall how i see the musclecars i run with do it. if enclosed trunk i think they are good to go, but still the fuel pumps out of the car.

from one local american muscle guys, alcohol injected smallblock in a c10...runs high 8's....said that i should set the sump so that its facing the back end of the car. like in picture example numero dos.

zerb wrote:but this isnt about aaron and his fulez.

im talking about my cell for my trunk here. if the sump is pointed towards the front of the car, once i launch....gas will be going away from the sump. which i thought would be bad period.

Do you ever plan on running low fuel?
Basically it boils down to an extra 4 feet of line Johnny

Well...I don't plan on running low fuel, especially in a drag race situaiton. And the four feet of braided line is no biggie, you know that. 8)

nice pistons, can you give me the link where you bought it?

Issam/Wizard-of-OD my guess

speeding-g60 wrote:Issam/Wizard-of-OD my guess

:stupid:

zerb wrote: issam asked what comp, i said 8.5:1, he said ok, and that was that, haha

i used my superior powers of deductive reasoning to figure this puzzle out.

i read what was the answer to my question right after the pics were posted of those pistons

got my fuel cell pretty much in there today, i cant weld for life...not that having a $400 wire feed hi/low mig helps the situation any, lol....but it gets the job done. pics.

read the rulebook for NHRA and make sure you have spec mounting.

i had to do some serious framework first year of the rabbit to make it all spec. not that they ever looked at it, but ya never know.

gots some strut cartridges today, and got my housings back last night. just got powdercoat them, and theyll be ready to go back in the car.

fronts are quite tight in the housing, the rears....have a wee bit of room around them. is that terrible? im now wishing i didnt make that dumpster run a few weekends ago cause i cant compare them with the stock units.

wow. about time some work got done to this dusty project HAHAHA

one thing. on mine, i only welded the bottom. the purpose of the rings is to have an exact flat seat for the sleeve to fit upon. and having the weld there might interfere with that. i know its a small weld (after all ( stupid disney music is ringing in my ears now ha )) but the sleeve needs to sit flat out on that ring. others have experienced the sleeve actually breaking/splitting from just having it sit on the original weld of the strut housing itself....

but the TIG welds look nice, looks like no filler was used on top of the perch plates, just fused. if thats the case, then you should be alright.

(and the Disney music plays on in my head. DOH!!!)

(as that terrible disney song repeats a small section over in my brain)

i did tell the duder that welds my stuff, hey...you only need to weld the bottom....cause this sleeve here (i actually slid it onto the strut housing) needs to sit flat on the ring. but its quite small, and done extremely well, so i think ill be ok.

oh and....ordered the cage from s and w last week, should be here in about a week or so.
gonna go to the local circle track race car shop and pick up some kirkeys seats this weekend hopefully. then we'll be in business.

its a small weld, after all.... its a small weld, after all.... its a small weld, after all; its a small, small, weld. (ADHD sucks LOL)

man i crack myself up at times.

and to think, you street driving this car might want a lil more comfort than a Kirkey. my honda buddy has rode one in his 10 sec street car for over 4 years, though, so i guess it is ok. and thats his only car, daily driver.

kirkeys seat+one of those pads=comfort

I used konis in my car just like you are and I made a shim sleave to get that to fit tightly into my stock housings. I used the factory insert and actually cut the ends off and slid the tube over top of the koni. It fit tightly over the koni and perfectly into the stock housing (obviously since thats what it was made to fit into) Its to bad you chucked the old shocks. :(

show me what to cut, i will make you some. i got 2 or 3 sets of junk cartridges laying around here.

zerb wrote:

There is a spacer that fits at the top of the insert and holds it tight in the tube. I might have a pair laying around if you don't have them...

yes, the spacer came on my Bilstien Sport HD's too. i would have thought they came with these as well.

if you can find or get, and someone shows me what to cut, i will cut a pair for you....

did you need these spacers for both the front and rear struts? the fronts seem to fit quite snug, the rears have a wee bit of room though.

after closer inspection of the KONI box, aka me actually looking at the plastic bag inside of it....there are indeed spacers for the rears.

hAHAHAHA

:slap:

its not my fault....its the attention deficit hyperactivity disorder.