The Project Pad

So, which turbo is this?

I am guessing a GTX30R. I like that little display!

Let it be known that Hank has a thing for nuts.

I decided to get a little more friendly Spring Mountain turbo.

I approve of this message. So, the car will be there mid-April? :wink:

LOL @ Ed.

Hank, it's great to see you've gone VEMS. Now I dont have to bug Marc anymore when i need help(not that you havn't been bugged yet with random questions way too late at night)

Perhaps too much thinking while I should be sleeping, but do you guys think a guy could get away with a single cable driven bicycle brake adapted to the inner CV(I have those 15mm spacers on my drivers front to make up half shaft length)? I could waterjet out custom rotors and make brackets so that it would not be much bigger than the 108mm CV, probably just a hair over that. I understand it wouldn't be much torque for actually stoping a car in an emergency, but I do think it would keep the car stationary on a hill. I guess I could run some numbers, but I want to put some boxter S rear calipers on the URQ, but I need to be able to pass inspections(well not really) still, and an ebrake is still required. I still want a proper hydro ebrake, but it seems like a cable driven ebrake setup would work well.

Picture these inboard, and a pull lever down by the hood release that just locks the wheel so it doesnt roll away. This setup would be particularly sweet at hte track, where putting an ebrake on after a hot lap is a good way to get your pads to weld up to the rotor, or warp rotors. The inboard idea would only be used for stationary lock, so it would never be hot. Even though the padlock is typically uber flat, it is still somewhat unnerving with that gt3 or r8 in front of you

I don't see why not... just need to make sure you can get enough clamping force on it is all.

Easier?

I've thought of installing an ebrake on the center driveshaft. You would be making use of the gearing in the differential to your advantage.

Don't be a girl, you don't need an ebrake for anything. Leave the car in gear, it'll be fine.

is there a motorcycle or scooter Rotor/Caliper that would be similar but more robust?

a_CQ wrote:Don't be a girl, you don't need an ebrake for anything. Leave the car in gear, it'll be fine.

them turbo people like to really let the cars warm up and cool down

hard to do in gear unless u wanna sit in the car the whole time

I really doubt a mountain bike brake could generate the sort of torque you are looking for. Bikes are an order of magnitude lighter. Why not just make up mounts for some spotter calipers? A few high performance cars do it this way. Put the factory calipers opposite your rear calipers, but only use them for the E-brake.

Ford GT

are those guys runnign two small calipers for ebrake? one on either side or jsut a single?
whatss one of them calipers run anyway? $?

Valid point, Tim. I forgot about cooling down part. Piece of 2x4 should work as well or just a simple wheel chok. I've used my floor jack a few times too.

we have some chocks at work that are small and are U shaped for both sides of the wheel

i really want a small single side cable brake for mine

How aboot a brake on the diff input? No good if your axle snaps but otherwise out of the way.

Mcstiff wrote:How aboot a brake on the diff input? No good if your axle snaps but otherwise out of the way.

It would be better because of the gearing advantage. Same reason why we leave our gearbox in 1st or reverse when parked. Some 1 ton trucks have an emergency brake on the driveline. It works really well.

I think he's afraid he wont be able to get the car to rotate.

if you're going to do all that - why not do a single disk on the input flange of your rear diff and save the unsprung weight.

You design my above idea and I'll buy one.

I'd be interested aswell, eventually want to upgrade front and rear. Hopefully sometime this summer after the car is together.

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