The Project Pad

All I'd really have to do is get a custom driveline, and weld up the center dif to make it work lol

Front Braided SS Brake Lines



Cutting up the core support.






Pulled all that worthless N/A crap that was hiding under the passenger fender



Cleaned up the bay where the lines ran to the old intake and purge (?) canister crap



Almost Done :dur:

Looking good! thiings are moving along nicely. LETS HEAR THIS THING FIRE UP!!

I got the belts for the alternator and power steering pump today. Gonna go to the top fuel drags then prolly finish a bunch of stuff tomorrow. Will mock fab the intercooler and finally figure out how to route the intake

Have fun at the drags, I went a couple years ago at maple grove here in PA. I had a lot of fun, except when they started the one when I was standing behind it

I couldnt see or hear anything for a few mins.

Looks good man!

Scored a perfect front dif actuator at the JY for $3 :dur:

Pulled all the little bolts and nuts that had gond missing from the JY too. Off to the drags!

I want a jet car now

Ok guys.....going crazy now.

Here is what is happening. I was bolting down everything for the starter and have been attempting to simply turn the engine over. Well I would get a very mild click. At this time, all interior lights and functions would work. After i charged the battery for 2 hours and secured every electrical connection, i attempted to turn it over again. No luck. After turning the key a few more times, I lost all interior power and functions. Took a voltage test at the fuse box and voltage was 0. Tried connecting just the starter to the power supply and had a solid 14v without the interior feed wire hooked up. So I know it is not the starter.

Now, I have found 2 culprits. If I pull out fuse #4, I will get 7v. If I remove fuse #19, I will get 14v. If I put fuse #4 back in, 0v. Fuse #19 will yield 7v. Now, then when the relay next to the ISVC (in my previous pics) on the bottom row of the interior rays, is plugged in, I get the same stupid voltgage reading. If I remove that relay and jump the power wire to a black/red wire on the same relay plugin, voltage shoots up to like 90v. WTF!?

Now the strange part? No blown fuses, even if I put a stupid 5amp fuse in fuse #4. What the hell would cause such a drain!?

Do you have all the engine/body grounds hooked up? How is the battery to chassis ground?

Ok slightly narrowed down to pin F50z. If I connect a 12v source to it, it shoots up to 250+ volts on the multimeter. F50z is the wire that goes off to the ignition switch. It is a red/bk wire

Yes all grounds are hooked up.

How do I tell where pin F50z goes ??????

:(


Ignition switch wire ---> F50Z ----> ???

AngryTaco wrote: 250+ volts

WTF. Me thinks that's not possible. Doesn't that wire go to your fuse box for ignition switched accessories?

Yeah thats what weird. Any other wire it goes straight to 12-14v.

I got the little buzzer and door ding to work again buts what is weird is that if I tried to turn the light on, its like all power is lost or everything gets weaker. I guess tomorrow, Ill pop the battery in from the truck and see what happens. I cant even get an arc from where the battery connects to the starter. Before, I could get a decent spark if I grounded the starter wire quickly. Now I dont get crap. If i pull the battery out and jump the posts, it damn near welds my screw drivers together

Ok, first off, anything over battery voltage is impossible so that means your volt meter is either way off or it is auto-ranging and what you are seeing is millivolts. Secondly, what you are describing sounds like it may be a bad connection on the battery or possibly at a power distribution block if you have added one because you have moved your battery. Check all those connections first to make sure they are clean and tight. Thirdly, are you sure your battery is good? It could have shorted cells making the amp hour or reserve capacity very low. That could also explain the small click you were getting in the beginning.

40v4kq wrote:Ok, first off, anything over battery voltage is impossible so that means your volt meter is either way off or it is auto-ranging and what you are seeing is millivolts. Secondly, what you are describing sounds like it may be a bad connection on the battery or possibly at a power distribution block if you have added one because you have moved your battery. Check all those connections first to make sure they are clean and tight. Thirdly, are you sure your battery is good? It could have shorted cells making the amp hour or reserve capacity very low. That could also explain the small click you were getting in the beginning.

Do what Dan says, all good diag info right here. It's usually something simple, like a bad battery connection or a crapped out battery.

Yeah I'm going to swap the battery tonight and see what happens. Is it possible to go with too big of a power cable?
I only went with like 1 size bigger over factory.

I think you are right about the MM wiggin out and actually showing mV rather than Volts. I think I was just pissed off and thinking immediately wtf?

No, in terms of battery cable, bigger = better. Especially if you moved the battery to the trunk.

Right, that's what I figured. I'm just in paranoid/obsession stage of electrical diagnositics right now.

Ok...I think I may have narrowed it down. When I jump the battery posts together, I get 13v. When I go from negative post to the ground cable, I get 12.2v. Does this mean my ground is not sufficient enough? This was all I messed with as I wanted to get the intercooler hooked up.

Dont worry, the intercooler will be nice and square when I TIG the mounts on.

I'll make a list of everything I used to make the intercooler work. All the piping is 2" OD with the exception of the tip that plugs into the Michelin Man boot, I believe that is 2.5".

AngryTaco wrote:Ok...I think I may have narrowed it down. When I jump the battery posts together, I get 13v. When I go from negative post to the ground cable, I get 12.2v. Does this mean my ground is not sufficient enough? This was all I messed with as I wanted to get the intercooler hooked up.

Well, this could be the problem. 13v on a battery that is sitting means it either has a static charge built up or it is failing, i'm gonna guess that its a static charge form you charging it. What your meter shows you(voltage) is the voltage difference between the two places you have the probes touching...which means that if you are touching two points on the ground side and you see voltage there it means you have HUGE resistance between those two points. What you are doing is very similar to a voltage drop test but that requires amperage flow through the part being tested to actually see the drop in voltage through a connection or load or whatever you are checking for loss. What you are seeing is a little odd because even with a crappy connection voltage on both sides of a connection should be even(unless you have current flowing). Sounds like you have a very bad ground.

AngryTaco wrote:I plan to have this done at latest, end of May

Dear my earlier self:

You are a dumbass. You didnt plan on the following:

2x Broken Motor Mounts
2x Broken Trans Mounts
2x Broken Radiator Mounts
4x Blown Shocks
2x Broken Sub Frame Mounts
1x Shattered Transmission Shaft Bearing
Breaking the front Vacuum Actuator upon installing engine/trans
Electrical Issues
PITA Intercooler Fab work
Not grabbing crucial parts from 5ktq part-car
Other various problems you came across

Dear other people attempting to due similar swaps. Don't make these mistakes and plan accordingly :-)