The Project Pad

The nice thing about the limiter as it is envisaged as it is a good and cheap testing tool i.e. do a run without it by just taking off the top nut, then put the nut on and do another back to back and see if it helps. If it does sweet, if not just unbolt it and go to the next option.

Limiting the droop on the front suspension is going to reduce grip, and if you still have a torsen, possibly lead to a complete loss of power transmitted to the ground. That limiter will only reduce the amount of normal force on the front tires, it will not prevent the front end from lifting. Only way to do that is stiffer springs out back or solid shocks out back/wheelie bar.

timmmy wrote:The nice thing about the limiter as it is envisaged as it is a good and cheap testing tool i.e. do a run without it by just taking off the top nut, then put the nut on and do another back to back and see if it helps. If it does sweet, if not just unbolt it and go to the next option.

finally someone sees my point of view this is free, not hundreds of dollars wasted for custom length or custom valved shocks that "could work" and could turn into thousands of dollars to get dialed in perfect. and the springs.... again, how much stiffer would they need to be? i run 900's in the rear and 650's in the front. these successful DSM cars are running less, much less. i just did what i thought might work, and it did pretty well. and now trying to maybe make it a little better.

450 f, 600 r, a ton of preload, strut is used for a limiting strap. only 3/4in. travel f, and 1.5in r.

and ^^^^this guy^^^^ is on the verge of cracking 7.9xx and has run some 1.2x sec 60' times!!!

i have different springs, i have some 6" 448's and some 7" 450's. my front takes 7" 650's now and 8" 900's in the rear. i can put the 650's in the rear and the 450's in the front, and that is another free experiment to try. but i also do not want the death hop that the DSMs are prone to. i thought about lowering the spring rate on just the fronts but people say it will do the opposite of what i want.

there just isnt many people doing this type of thing with this type of car, and none of them really are sharing their "secrets". oh shit, forbid competition or someone else trying to learn from you.

it is just to see what i see.... but one of the other reasons i am doing this is that the TOE out is bad when it lifts, as well, due to the change in steering.

and i do not have a Torsen center. Wavetrac--->welded---->locked.

Aaron you should also play with the static rake of the car to help control this lift. If you bias the rear high and the front low the weight transfer will be modified keeping more on the nose. That is easy and free to play with too assuming you have coilovers all round. As others have said, if you have adjustable compression and rebound damping you can play with that too to delay weight transfer front to rear.

Anti squat and dive control arm geometry will also help but that will require building height adjustable control arm mounting points all round which is a fair bit of work. (work I am doing on my race car by deleting the subframes completely and building control arm mounts directly on the chassis. Plus I save weight from no subframes.

timmmy wrote:Aaron you should also play with the static rake of the car to help control this lift. If you bias the rear high and the front low the weight transfer will be modified keeping more on the nose. That is easy and free to play with too assuming you have coilovers all round.

yep i have done this before with positive results.... i have notes somewhere, but i did get positive results. that could have been better driving too, but i dont think that was entirely the case. the 60' was getting better with those changes as well.

shifter action now completed.


Link to video

badass

Do want!
Hope the recovery is going well!

That's freakin sweet!

Nice pants

hahaha love the imaginary race

I feel an 8.xx coming soon! Camera view is great too.

My only complaint is that damned microphone. Sounds like poopoo! If you have an external mic input on whatever that camera is, I'll buy you a mic and send it to you just so it doesn't sound like Hagrid's asshole every time I watch one of your vids!

haha. that was the Hero-2 GoPro in the "open" case... ???

i ditched the onboard setup just because of the sound.... maybe i need it in the enclosed case?

The sound from GoPros has always been bad. They "fixed" that issue by providing an external mic input on the Hero 2 which is why I bought one in the first place. Anything, even the cheapest lapel mic sounds incredibly better than the stock mic.

hmmmm. arent the external mics power though? i will have to look into it. Zerb told me about a neat one once...

I have one that isn't powered and it works great. It is a bit big though. You should be able to find one that doesn't require power fairly easily.

ok... i will look for one sometime before race season starts for me. if i remember.

it has to be able to deal with the loud environment, as it would always be inside the car.

Ahhhhhhggggggg mind melted by the shift action!!!!!!

awesome. cant wait for actual racing action with the beast.

i cant wait to do THIS!!!!


Link to video

so, Alex @ Konstant Design has been working with me on a T-shirt design. i wanted to have something for when we are at the track, that shows like a team sort of....

i like it very much. i had to make a minimum order, and should have extras. this wasnt a "profit" type of thing, this was all out of my own pocket to do.

and no i am not selling anything here actively, as that is against the rules. on Facebook though, i did mention the extras, and that i would be dividing the cost of the artwork by the number of shirts i have to order, and if there were extras than that is what they could be sold for ON FACEBOOK. if i went over my minimum shirt order (supposed to be 48 minimum, but he let me only do 36 as i am just a guy not a huge race team with lots and lots of dollars to spend on fluff stuff like this) then i would just divide the cost equally.

i just wanted to look a little more professional really. and he is making tee's, long sleeve tee's, tank tops, hoodies. mens, womens, and down to Medium for kids.

send me a message ON FACEBOOK about it :-)

damnit i dont have FB :(

Dude, that's legit man!

doing work on the new intercooler setup. since i changed stuff up, a figured now would be the time to get an ACTUAL REAL DEAL BRAND NAME core. and so i talked to my friend Reid, owner of Kaizenspeed and owner/builder/driver of an 8.4 sec Honda Hatch drag car what he runs. and he told me he uses a Precision P1000 core. and then he proceeded to let me know that he had his old one from a previous iteration sitting around getting dusty, and for a very minimal fee a deal was struck. and i could not believe when i looked up how much this Precision PT1000 actually sells for! ~$1100! he had modified it to lie flat and built the reservoir on top of it, and it was inside the car. but he changed and just got a new one to build out under hood. but if it handles ~1200whp Honda power, it will be great for my lesser setup, my mind tells me.

and i cannot believe how much better this core is. the internals are much more densely packed and just has the look of better quality.

http://www.precisionturbo.net/heat-exch ... --PT1000/5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i am in the process of modding to suit but i got the whole thing for $150 plus shipping, one heck of a deal i must say!



this was the first few tries, but i ended up flipping it so the inlet/outlet are further away from the TB, to make that transition a little smoother. this does away with the in-car reservoir and all the lines running to and from the AWIC at the same time.





then i got creative for plumbing and fluid flow path.













and this is how the water path works.


Link to video

wow, i have been slacking for updating here havent i.

so my polycarbonate sheet (48x96) came in, so Derek helped me layout the rear window. he was maneuvering the glass while i was marking things out. two pairs of hands are better for this kind of work.

and then i went on about cutting, trimming, and drilling the holes for it.

first i layed out the drill lines, where i planned to rivet it to the hatch.





then i broke out another little used but very good fabrication tool box, the CLECO's.







then lay out the trim line i do on all of these, from the inside. scuff it with emery cloth for paint adhesion, and flat/semi gloss black it out. this will get the same kind of logo the other one had, but this time black to match the roof which will be painted black here shortly as well.

and while working on the rear hatch, i decided to do some battery work too.

got down the little Kinetic 800 and weighed it against the Optima Yellow top i have always run in the car. a solid 21+ pound savings!!! for FREE!!!



then i bought a different battery the next day, for a total weight loss on the battery alone of 32 pounds!!!! this is the battery i ended up getting.

http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Crank- ... ttery.html