The Project Pad

Oh ok. I wonder what the system is like in a t44. It's something I've been planning on fixing eventually, but havent had the time to look into it at all.

loxxrider wrote:Oh ok. I wonder what the system is like in a t44. It's something I've been planning on fixing eventually, but havent had the time to look into it at all.

I bet its the same thing. I have found that the electrical contacts in the stalk have almost always been corroded to the point of not sending any outputs anymore. The stalk gets switched 12v in and it sends 12v out on 3 different wires.
-12v out for "cruise on" this remains constantly energized when switch is in the on position
-12v momentary out when the set button is pushed
-12v momentary out when the resume button is pushed

These are what my contacts looked like before

after

Good info, I am always surprised mine still works by just hooking up the vacuum hose to the actuator.

audifreakjim wrote:Good info, I am always surprised mine still works by just hooking up the vacuum hose to the actuator.

probably because you live/lived in dryer climates? mine usually just need that corrosion cleaned off and they work again. Everything corrodes around here, too much moisture.

Realized I never posted this here. The bushing in the 016 based linkage disintegrated. Even though 034 makes a replacement, I wanted to get rid of the rubber all together. Turns out an FK 8 size bearing and cup drop right in! With some careful height measurements and high offset spacers, the fit and function is perfect.

Sweet!

Any chance you could supply some part numbers for those of us less clueful about bearings?

Here are the bearing cups.
http://www.fkrodends.com/AINCP18.html

I went with the CP8 cup and FKSSX8T bearing. Stainless and Teflon lined.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-fkssx8t

*Edit* Here are the QA1 SN8-66 high misalignment spacers I used

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-sn8-66

Money!

Been driving around the last few days with the spool valve forced open by accident. Have thought to myself numerous times, "wow this car sounds better than normal". I think can accomplish this with a small pressure tank and a check valve.
-Open most of the time except for the area of the map where its needed, above 100kpa and below ~4700 rpms

I was thinking the same thing. I'm not knowledgeable enough to do it with tuning but thought it would be nice to have both sides open when you wanted. For example... stop and go traffic where you don't build up enough boost to cause it to open and you want it open to let the hot exhaust gas to to get out easier and make everything run cooler. I was thinking of a cable operated lever that would be inside the car near the shifter and was attached to quick spool rod so all you would have to do is pull the lever and the cable would draw the butterfly open.

We can help you set it up in VEMS josh. It's really easy to do with the check valve and pressure reservoir as Jim says.

Sweet! Thanks! I will definitely want some help with that especially when I go to a EFR 9180.

Jim, I was thinking about it and are you going to run a line to a two port tank/accumalator from the manifold or some point where you have boost, put a check valve on that side so the pressure will stay in the tank,.... then on the second port, have a solenoid valve controlled by VEMS that delivers air to the quick spool actuator to keep it open based on your programming...???

That's how I envisioned it but Jim may have some different plumbing in mind. An n75 (from Marc or even an AAN's stock one) will do the trick nicely, that's what we used to control the qsv.

Time for an update. Had a bad noise develop at BBQ, turns out the flywheel bolts were backing out due to the mechanic not using loctite...

It rattled the thrust bearings out, which caused some side loading on the rod bearings.

Another interesting thing is the front pulley was loose too. Probably due to the flywheel hammering the crank.

New crank, rod bearings, thrust bearings, and flywheel are going in. Might do inconel exhaust valves too.

Also going to swap out that heavy ass full face spec clutch disk for a lighter, more TQ capable spring 6 puck

Wow, I am little bit surprised about the bearing damage and the front pulley loosening. I suppose it makes sense, those were some pretty nasty vibrations.

I'm sure that rip through the gears that you so kindly provided us did not help

Sorry to see this happened, but, like usual, the car will be even better than it was.

It had to come apart anyways, I probably would do it again even if I know it was going to cost me a set of rod bearings

A little tiny piece of me hopes this isn't a sign of a death vibration like Hank talks about that breaks TT-RS cranks in half when using a single mass flywheel. Might be wise to invest in a better crank balancer? We deal with the same shit on the super lightweight Porsche stroker cranks and flywheels vibrating loose. A front crank damper/balancer seems to have solved it.

Sam

I'm running a TT-RS balancer in the front already. Not sure if that's a good thing bad thing now. Didn't know that was an issue!

Is that Fluidampr that Issam is making now made to help with this?
I'm no engineer but I know that there are a couple ways that you can change the critical speed of a rotating mass, if you change the weight that is one way and also to change that damping is another. If you are going to change the flywheel and clutch you'll be changing that equation quite a bit.

I'll hit him up. Now is the time to change it.

Man I am sorry about your engine. This is the reason I do everything myself. Sometimes that is hard to do with work and other fixits in general. But I hate paying someone hard earned money and then have to go in there and fix it the right way.
Hope you are back on the road soon.

Was the spool valve that broke the original version or the Super HD version from Sound Performance?

I'll be running a similar setup so I'm wondering what precautions I need to take so I don't grenade my turbo.

Your build is awesome! Thanks for the help.

Marc

Super HD, the latest revision.

Thanks - I was afraid you would say that. Will definitely weld mine and look at disabling when using anti-lag.