The Project Pad

Crank pulley? I have the nice crank cog from EFIexpress thats new... not the pulley where the belt rides though. I didn't think that was necessary.

I did give some thought to the oil pump and I can get a good deal on one, BUT I do plan to dry sump this thing next summer before it gets high strung so I figure maybe its worth the risk (knocks on wood).

Yeah I'm talking about the cog...timing belt crank pulley, not the harmonic dampner. Although you should definitely inspect that as well (see link below). That is sweet you got the hardened cog from Marc...that is a nice piece.

I forgot you told me you were gonna run dry sump...in that case I wouldn't replace the pump either. But of course inspect it when the motor is apart.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/119036.phtml

Good to know, thanks bud. Yeah, I don't like to take chances when it comes to the timing belt... thats why I got a new cam gear and that hardened steel cog.

After doing some select reading I am STRONGLY considering not honing the cylinders and depending on how the rings look, possibly not replacing them either. Rod and main bearings will still get replaced however. Thoughts welcome.

I'm getting really antsy about doing this... I think about it more every day. If only that tranny would hurry up... *wink wink*

loxxrider wrote:I'm getting really antsy about doing this... I think about it more every day. If only that tranny would hurry up... *wink wink*

That's what sh... Nevermind...

Eddie Murphy says...

I'm curious as to what your reasoning is behind not honeing and using original rings...

I've always just cross hatched my cylinders and used new oem rings on boosted engines. Rings are definitely a wear item in an engine and do wear out after time. I don't think serious honing is necessary , but a lite cross hatch for new rings to seat is good. Especially considering how many miles are on your engine I would do new rings. But like I said, I would really like to know why you don't want to.

I'll be sending you an email tonight about some stuff as well. I can't wait to see this thing come together some more. It's sounds like it's gonna be awesome!

Jon, you are right. Conventional wisdom certainly does say that a hone will help rings seat and that it is an important process in any re-ringing. However, I am inclined to challenge conventional wisdom when I or someone else brings up a good case against it as in the argument about low or high comp and boost or as in Holset vs Garrett, etc. This is the little article that put me on the outs with honing:

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm

As for the rings, you are also right. They are a wear item and should be replaced. I'm not sure there is any argument against that other than cheapness and laziness. If they look fine and measure out within spec then I feel like keeping them in there an extra year or year and a half wouldn't be a terrible idea. This one I don't feel as strongly about though. I'll probably do rings, its just that I'm *considering* not if they are in good condition since I'll be rebuilding again anyway.

I'll shoot you a reply e-mail in a minute.

Are you just not messing with the rings, or are you putting in new rings in the original bores?

I have actually read that same article before. Cast iron rings will seat to just about anything. I somewhat agree that the conventional "put it in the hand drill" and hone stone makes a bore that will take a lot of wear of the rings to get the peaks knocked off. The problem you will run into is that the AAN uses a chromoly top ring and then cast 2nd ring an then a cast oil ring. The Chromoly ring needs something abrasive to seat, as the material is just to hard to cut a smooth bore. This article even addresses this if you read it over.

I could see just putting rods in with those rings and pistons being used in the same holes. Mark the ring location when you are taking them out, and try to put them back in the same location. If compression is good now, it shouldn't change with rods in there. I wouldn't recommend putting new rings in a non honed hole however. If you feel the need, use the cheap, non Goertz rings as they typically do not have a chromoly top ring. They are generally Cast.

HTH

Thanks Hank,

I agree with your statements when you consider the chromoly top ring. My compression is fine so I think I'll just keep them as long as they look OK.

i fiddle sticking dig it man, im still in wow. Charlie sheen gives it a win!

I've decided that the car is getting torn down on the first

Nice. I will be there on the 27th ! If you're not done by then I can lend a hand.

Oh yeah! I forgot you were coming down here. That will definitely be fun

I started the build tonight. The car sprung a vac leak at the fpr and that made me want to just get started lol. I only have two to three hours each night to work on the car including the weekends. Here is what two hours got me tonight.

Attachment ( 26797 ) : audi build.jpg

Making good progress! How long do you expect it to be down?

Dude.... Yes. I am really looking forwards to your buildup!

Thanks Ben, me too

Jon, I'm not sure yet. I just gained a bit of time because I quit my second job lol. Someone was giving me a bunch of unnecessary shit/lip today and a lot of disrespect and I just said screw this. Now my weekends have opened up! I'll have the engine/tranny out within the next 4-6 man hours I think and then its bottom end build time. When thats complete I'm probably going to be waiting on my tranny still :/ and I have a lot to order as soon as some people get back to me. I'll probably be ready to drop it in within a few weeks, but the tranny will be the big issue. I don't know when it will get here and I need to make mounts for it, shorten the axles, and make a shifter rod.

Head came off today. Only had trouble with one bolt and it was on the water manifold. Cylinders look like brand new, but the pistons are a bit black. I'll get pics and take a closer look at everything tomorrow. I was just happy to get the head off tonight. I am about 4 hours in now with the head off. I think before I venture any further into the removal I'm going to start cleaning things. Everything is either greasy, oily, or sooty.

There were lots of "while I'm in there" things I took note of... Not looking forward to the kind of $$ I'm going to be spending lol.

Can you say: Opening can of worms?

Good luck, man. Looking forward to see your beast come together again.

:pics:

I know exactly what you mean! They will nickle and dime you broke.

My pistons were pretty black as well but after a good cleaning they looked great. My cylinder walls looked new as well. Sounds like it's coming along! I'm stoked to see the progress

loxxrider wrote:Everything is either greasy, oily, or sooty.

Gee, I wonder why everything is sooty...

ef you Ed dump tube reroute will be a part of this rebuild lol

All I did tonight was clean a few parts and organize things a bit. My tools were scattered all over the place and I had too many bolts laying around etc. Now all of the bolts have a home in their original holes.

Here are some pics. First is the head on a table. Don't worry, the head is jacked up on one side so the valves wont get bent.



Next is a quick shot of the cross-hatching on the cylinders.



Next two are pics of the cylinders and pistons and the crud they have on them. Not nice.





I guess its just carbon buildup? Also, why are there discolored rings around the tops of the cylinders?

I also now have a 3b intake, fuel rail, and tb for sale

Chris, are you redoing that connection between turbo cold side flange to inlet tubing?

Looks a bit ghetto. Are going V-band on the intake tubing?