The Project Pad

AngryTaco wrote:Sure am. Red Car, white wheels with black trim

So you're doin what i'm doin too. I already have two-thirds of it done...Red car, white wheels, and i'm just waiting on a peice from a friend to complete my extra set of stainless trim that i'm going to paint black. I hope it looks alright.

That should look good. Once the car is driving right, the rear driver quarter is getting much needed body work and I may have my friend paint the car

40v4kq wrote:

AngryTaco wrote:Sure am. Red Car, white wheels with black trim

So you're doin what i'm doin too. I already have two-thirds of it done...Red car, white wheels, and i'm just waiting on a peice from a friend to complete my extra set of stainless trim that i'm going to paint black. I hope it looks alright.

Oh shit pressure is on.... It's not like you gave me a power steering pump or anything!

40v4kq wrote:

AngryTaco wrote:Sure am. Red Car, white wheels with black trim

So you're doin what i'm doin too. I already have two-thirds of it done...Red car, white wheels, and i'm just waiting on a peice from a friend to complete my extra set of stainless trim that i'm going to paint black. I hope it looks alright.

.

LOL @ JT4K.

New paint on 4kq's looks nice, JT4K can vouch for that.

Yah cause I'm gunna be painting Dans for him at this rate!

HAHA, but nah, i dont need no repaint. I just need to get the nicer driver side doors on an just repaint the black trim on the doors and I should be set. The rest of the paint looks great when its all buffed out.

Taco, forget about the suspension, just get this thing running so everyone(and myself) will shut up about it already! LOL

Lol. Ill try for tomorrow!

On the 5ktq fuel pump relay, fuel does not flow until te engine is turning over correct?

That is correct. Dont make the same mistake I did. I had got all the wiring done but left the stock JT relay in there. When I didnt hear the pump prime when I turned the ignition on I said "well, that doesnt work" and never even tried cranking it. Turns out that was my issue. I didnt realize the MC relay doesnt do anything til the car is started.

Weird. What actually tells the pump to turn on? And I dont mean the Ecm. Im talking like is it the TDC/RPM Sensor?

The pump does not prime until the engine is cranked, the signal come from the hall sender I believe... I remember this same issue with my KH swap...

Looking at my 4kq manual (bentley) that has the EWD for 85 and 86 urq it shoes the signal to the fuel pump relay coming from the "electronic ignition system control unit" and there are three sonsors that input signals into that unit...engine RPM sending unit, ingnition timing sensor, and the hall generator in the dist. I think twin towers is correct about the hall being the one it uses for the fuel pump.

Awesome. I just like knowing these things. If I dont have it running today, itll definitly be running this week

how much do you ahve left to hook up? shouldnt be all that much with you already cranking it over to prime.

Hurry up I want to know about how mine is going to sound!!! :dur:

Just took a compression test before putting the plugs in:

120-119-121-121-121

Hows that for a novice engine builder?

damn right, I like it.

We have fuel gentlemen!!!

ok, now we need spark! keep it up, she will be running before nites end! :vids:

Ok, Im working on the spark right now. The hall sensor is active obviously because of fuel pump. Do all sensors need to be plugged in for spark?

I would imagine you would want them all hooked up. This way the ecu know what is going on.

yes you need them all hooked up, otherwise the ecm wont know when to spark.

Make sure the bellhousing sensors arent flip flopped (btdt). DO IT!

Ok guys still not getting spark. Everything is hooked up. There is power at the coil. I tested the 2-pin connector that goes to the coil from the ecm and it is reading 0v where the minimum is 0.2v. When the key is on it will read 1.5v but drops to 0 when cranking. I tried flip flopping the tdc/rpm sensors but no change. Did an ohm test on the wires and they check out

Just a question here. during my 4ktq swap I had the power to my ecu going to a switched 12v source. But that source was not 12v when cranking. It would go to 0 volts at cranking. Does your source give 12v during cranking?

My source immediately shoots down to about 40mv when cranking. Has a good 12.5v when not cranking