The Project Pad

Kuma85 wrote:got a picture of the powerflex bushing.

I haven't seen a pic of those yet. They look like nice pieces.
Also, I stated above you have to pull the diff to press out the old one. That is incorrect. I'm to used to working on 83/84 4kq/urq. On your car the rear mount unbolts from the diff with 4-bolts, then you can press it out of that mount. Much easier. Just support the diff in place with a couple jack stands. ON the early 4kq and Urq, the diff is all one piece so if you want to press that in, you have to ManHandle the entire diff on the the press, or use some other contraption to remove it. :frustrated:

If you are going to install that in the rear, I'd either get their matching tranny/diff mounts. OR get the 034 Track density mounts. I would think their track density should be similar to that unit.

Kuma, which light is dimmer? In the pics, the pass side looks to be darker, but that could just be the lighting.

I agree zarati. If you can get a hold of powerflex diff/trans mounts, I would. If you cant, go with the density line and you will be fine.

zarati wrote:

Kuma85 wrote:got a picture of the powerflex bushing.

I haven't seen a pic of those yet. They look like nice pieces.
Also, I stated above you have to pull the diff to press out the old one. That is incorrect. I'm to used to working on 83/84 4kq/urq. On your car the rear mount unbolts from the diff with 4-bolts, then you can press it out of that mount. Much easier. Just support the diff in place with a couple jack stands. ON the early 4kq and Urq, the diff is all one piece so if you want to press that in, you have to ManHandle the entire diff on the the press, or use some other contraption to remove it. :frustrated:

If you are going to install that in the rear, I'd either get their matching tranny/diff mounts. OR get the 034 Track density mounts. I would think their track density should be similar to that unit.

that seems much less like a chore now. I also was wondering when you said jack stands, i prop it up and then press out the mount? i can just push it out with my fingers?


Im glad that i dont have to drop the whole diff. that would be a pita.

DE80q wrote:Kuma, which light is dimmer? In the pics, the pass side looks to be darker, but that could just be the lighting.

I agree zarati. If you can get a hold of powerflex diff/trans mounts, I would. If you cant, go with the density line and you will be fine.

the tail light itself is not dimmer.

I found a short in the tail lights, so when i press the brakes, the lights on the right side of the car are much much dimmer. I need to resodder(SP?) the passenger side turn light. apparently it broke off and i just founf it.


the tails are seemingly even though, and with a little compound polish they came out great!!! the middle panel is less shiny and i will need to clear it all over again, and its a little crooked so it will have to come off again anyways.


i got the short shifter installed. It is relatively shorter than the stock one and it has a lot of sloppy play still. im just going to save up and get the JHM solid shifter. that is my ultimate goal for shifters for now.


there is a car show coming up on the 4th of November in Dallas called vagabahn, www.vagabahncarshow.com

i already registerd and im getting my car ready to show. its nothing spectacular, but since im the only Audi Coupe Quattro thats going to be there, i might win something!


maybe some cash, that would be nice.




im painting the car on monday, so ill be sanding it down and taping it and prepping it to paint.


its a surprise though, so ill post up when its finished.

The factory mount is a steel wrapped rubber piece that is pressed into Tue housing. You will need to cut/melt the rubber out, and cut the steel ring out. After that, clean up the housing and you should be able to press in the new mount pretty easily being a poly mount.

Where is the Radio and the interior light fuse at?

DE80q wrote:The factory mount is a steel wrapped rubber piece that is pressed into Tue housing. You will need to cut/melt the rubber out, and cut the steel ring out. After that, clean up the housing and you should be able to press in the new mount pretty easily being a poly mount.

:stupid: Yes. IF you have a press you can press that mount out as well, but its definitely not something you can pop out with your fingers.
What I meant when I aid prop the diff up with a jack stand, is that you need to actually remove the rear mount. Its bolted to the diff with 4-large allens. Picture an engine mount. Its bolted up like that. When you remove that, the diff will want to flow backwards and stress the side mounts. I like to just prop it up to keep tension off the driveline.

Anyhow, once you remove the mount, you'll see what we are talking about. Getting the old one out is a little PITA, but the new ones will go in nice an easy. When you dos the side mounts, they are also very easy. 3-Bolts each and they are done. You can swap them in about 10-min each.

zarati wrote:

DE80q wrote:The factory mount is a steel wrapped rubber piece that is pressed into Tue housing. You will need to cut/melt the rubber out, and cut the steel ring out. After that, clean up the housing and you should be able to press in the new mount pretty easily being a poly mount.

:stupid: Yes. IF you have a press you can press that mount out as well, but its definitely not something you can pop out with your fingers.
What I meant when I aid prop the diff up with a jack stand, is that you need to actually remove the rear mount. Its bolted to the diff with 4-large allens. Picture an engine mount. Its bolted up like that. When you remove that, the diff will want to flow backwards and stress the side mounts. I like to just prop it up to keep tension off the driveline.

Anyhow, once you remove the mount, you'll see what we are talking about. Getting the old one out is a little PITA, but the new ones will go in nice an easy. When you dos the side mounts, they are also very easy. 3-Bolts each and they are done. You can swap them in about 10-min each.

Okay, i think im able to envision this better. I crawled underneath and i see wwhat yuo are talking about.

Im going to have to do all the mounts at the same time because it would be a hassle to take it out over and over and over.


BTW, my tail lights seem legal.

oh and replaced my #4 fuse yesterday, that one fuse controls so much stuff in the car its rediculous. Even my tails were acting funky, then i put in the new one and BAM, everything works.


weird.

Looking good. Now time to upgrade those headlights. I only hope my 80 will look this good.

im sure it will. My car is gonna be a work in progress until its gone. My kids really wants my car cause he thinks its fast, but thats because it has no muffler or resonator. Its just LOUD. But its quicker than it was when i first got it.


There seems to be an issue though, the car kinda bogs down when i am accelerating. It doesnt do it all the time, but more often than i like.


any ideas?

I ran some seafoam through it when i got it, and it ran like shit for a while. then it leveled out. but im thinking that maybe its got a clogged fuel filter?

god i hope my pump isnt taking a shit.

Meh. The pump is easy to replace. Don't sweat it. ;-)

Pics yet of this paint or what?!

Okay, no sweat then.


im heading over to a buddies place to start the prep at around 1000.

You guys wont get to see the paint until its finished, but ill post pics up until!


it will awesome.












I hope,lol.

Progress!!!

Shaving the rear window wiper. Apparently, when you delete the rear wiper it messes up the front wipers...
they arent intermittent anymore.

also, shaved the rear emblems, and i had to clean out my K&N air cone, but car is still bogging down...


going to shave the bottom door sills to rid myself of having to buy the pesky lower door trims...

and plastidipped the grill.


still more work to come.

Oil that filter lightly... MAF's don't like to be oiled.

im thinking about these for my garage.


http://www.flor.com/catalogsearch/resul ... mit=Search

Stephen, dipyourcar seems to be back up! They are releasing new "Blaze" colors

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Plastidip will go on the wheels. it will peel cause of the heat here in Texas on the car

The bogging is possibly a bad knock sensor. Have had it on 2 different cars. One set a code the other did not.

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i think i have a few of those in the back of my car. I will bust one out and take a photo.

they look used....

I recently bought both knock sensors (Bosch) for my 7A off of EBay for ~$55, use the bolt through style for a 3B they're wayyyyy cheaper.

Kuma85 wrote:Plastidip will go on the wheels. it will peel cause of the heat here in Texas on the car

If you use your brakes hard at all, the wheels will get hotter than it ever gets in Texas.

the plastidip is just for the car show coming up.

Im actually trying to trade my wheels for a set of Enkei 92 wheels with tires.


or a set of Cobra R wheels