The Project Pad

mr_aj_johnson wrote:How long has it been since you've driven it? Nice lookin bits and bobs there Jared.

Its been a while. I got to drive it shortly after the B4 throttle cable went in. That was so I could feel how the the new setup was. Now that his 90 is on the road, we have a list of things to fix on the bandit, then I will get it back full time.

mr_aj_johnson wrote:How long has it been since you've driven it? Nice lookin bits and bobs there Jared.

Buy my mounts

I have had a whole bunch of small packages show up of the past week. Most of them went together to creat this




Thats right, I finally have all the parts back in my possession so I could assemble the porsche k26-6/t04e hybrid! I have if assembled, but I am waiting on a return email from turbonetics as to weather there is supposed to be an o-ring in the compressor housing. Searching on the interwebs has told me that it is either metal on metal, a thin flat gasket, or an o-ring. So, I figured instead of guessing, I would go to the source.

The only other question I have, is does the 100 in/lb torque spec for the compressor nut sound correct? I did a search on MG and that is what comes up. It was an old thread, and there was also the argument about weather or not to use any kind of loctite on the threads. What do you guys think?

Well, I couldn't find the compressor wheel nut torque online, so I asked Gpopshop. This is the procedure I got.

Using 2 drops of red loctite, torque the nut to 28 in/lb, then an additional 1/4 turn(tty)

This is the procedure they use when rebuilding them in house.

As for the turbonetics housing seal, I never got a response. So I'm going to put in an O-ring and call it good.

GOBS OF SILLYCONE

Well, as package after package shows up here at my apartment, I realized that I have a lot of work to do before Carlisle. I have just over a month to get these

The parts that George has, and the parts yet to arrive installed and tuned for. Its going to be Interesting

Spent the weekend at George's place working on the bandit. We got quite a bit done. New front outer CV boots, new front upper strut mounts(my street density's failed), retorqued the head studs, new valve cover gasket, made and installed a CSI block off plate, upgraded and rerouted the breather system, installed output flang seals in the trans, installed HPR isv hoses, and finally installed the HPR motor mounts.

George also mounted me up a sweet set of 215/45/16's on my comp wheels.

We couldn't help but laugh at the 1/2"+ difference in hight of the 2 density mounts we took out. My passenger side mount collapsed that far! What a PITA to get at too with a UrQ downpipe.

Still quite a bit left to do, but time was cut a little with having to run to Philly to pick up a 90 20v in need of some attention.

I bet it was easy installing those HPR mounts vs the stupid ass shitty 03crap ones!!!!!!!!

Yeah, with having the downpipe in the way, the trough bolt design was very nice. Hopefully next weekend George and I can knock out the rest of the work we need to do to the bandit, and his B4.

Just got my sticker for Carlisle, so its coming up quick!

So yesterday I spent the day at George's place again. We knocked out a bunch more items on the to do lost.

The trans is almost completely resealed. Turns out the rear output flang seal we go was incorrect, and George had to fight the shifter shaft seal pretty hard to get it out.

While he was rolling around under the car, figured it was a good time to install the HPR trans mounts. Good thing too, the street density mounts that were in there were on the verge of failure. Like normal, the downpipe was in the way there too. Gotta love the UrQ downpipe...

We also installed a vacuum manifold and ran new silicone hoses for everything!

Sorry for the crappy pic, looks much better on my phone...

We also installed the new section of silicone hose in the turbo cooling lines. That went pretty well.

Lastly we dropped the front control arms to replace the bushings. George will have to take them to work and use the press for removal and install. Having just moved in, don't want to smoke out the neighborhood.

I guess I forgot to mention the upgraded looks of the front end. Got a FK badgeless grill. Cleans up the front end don't you think?


Also helps hide the BOV a little too.

Wheres yo timing cover???!

In my storage unit. I always had problem with it hitting the cam cog. So I just removed the upper portion. I know I need to get it back on, I just need to get all new mounting hardware for it. In the 2 years it was apart, I managed to lose the studs for it. Using a bolts to secure it probably has a lot to do with it hitting.

Digging the vacuum manifold. I'm gonna have to put one in when I switch IM's

The one I have in there now is a 42 draft. Low profile, and generally small. It should work much better than having a bunch of "t"s and "y"s in the system. The silicone hose is from siliconeintakes.com it has a very heavy wall to keep it from collapsing under vacuum, or ballooning under boost.

Well, the local dealer happened to have the correct seal in stock for the rear output flange. George was also able to get the new bushings pressed into the control arms. So I got this pic.


It is back on its wheels, and not leaking any more! Well, it still leaks PS fluid, but I need to find replacements for all the hoses in that system..

At any rate, its almost ready for the show. Just want to swap in the euro tails and call it ready.

I think you'll be just as well going to your local tractor shop and having new PS hoses made.

I'm considering it. I found 2 of them on line, but the one is an aftermarket piece, and we all know how well the aftermarket hoses tend to hold up to the mineral oil we use for PS fluid. I just wish I could find a set, then take them in and get the rubber replaced.

IIRC, the small chassis pumps use regular ATF/PS fluid. It's the large chassis that use mineral oil due to the hydro boost system.

I've always ran the regular stuff in the 4000 with good results

Red line synthetic PS fluid FTW.

Worked fine in my 4K with an A6 PS pump, and in my 80 with same pump.

x2 on the Redline PSF. Mance tested a bunch and found it has the best zinc content.

I guess ill have to order some. I'm going to order an aftermarket replacement pressure line, and find some good PS hose to replace the rest of it. Hopefully soon I won't have any fluid leaks.

Oh, got this pic today. What a pair!

elaw wrote:Red line synthetic PS fluid FTW.

Worked fine in my 4K with an A6 PS pump, and in my 80 with same pump.

got any pictures of that setup? Did the A6 pump bolt right up or with some minor fab?

Well there's an asterisk to what I wrote, and that's that the pump was used on an AAN engine!

But on that engine, yes it bolts right up to the stock bracket and works with the stock pulley. I'm a little fuzzy on details of the hoses but I think I used a B3 pump -> rack hose, and just used a length of hose I had lying around to go from the reservoir to the pump. It may have even been the stock 4KQ hose. The rack -> reservoir hose was the stock one, as it's not affected by the engine swap.

I Just picked her up tonight! I forgot how much fun this car is to drive! She still have a couple issues, but those will be taken car of ASAP. I couldn't stop smileing the whole way home, especially when pulling 3rd to 6k rpm!

As for the issues, here is the short list.
1- New wheel and tire package rubs in the rear when you hit a hard bump, or take a hard corner.
----I have a pair of bistein HD's that I need to put in. The problem is I don't have the gland nuts, and cant get them. I tried emailing bilstein, but never got a reply. I'm going to take my spare housings, and make my own gland nuts. I will use the OEM ones, open them up, and weld on rings to hold a seal. then I will install them in the housings that are on the car. Done!

2- The alignment is now out.
---With all the suspension work we did, it was kind of expected that this would happen. After fixing the rear struts, take it for an alignment.

3- Fuel smell in the engine bay.
---I removed the fuel evap system. This included the charcoal canister under the hood. This means that there is an open line in the bay from the tank. Any one have any idea what I can do to vent it outside of the bay?