The Project Pad

I had fat body injectors at the time. Yes chris let me know about the other ones!

when are you seeing positive boost and full boost on the HX40?

What clutch are you running?

Just curious as to why you chose the 144x22 rods over the 144x21 rods?

Positive i never really pay attention to. 16 psi i see by 4600. I really need to do some logs...

Pull through it man... I soo feel your pain... Hopefully the damage is easier to fix than mine...

What?

The car was fine sunday morning, the tune has been a little rich and fouled a set of plugs a couple weeks ago. so i drove it home sunday morning with no issue. AT one point i changed the routing of the vacuum lines to make one of them more desirable, touching nothing else. I hop in to wash the car(SILLY ME), and start the car. Its sputtering almost like its missing a cylinder or its setup for antilag. uhhh ok. thought maybe plugs are dirty so i took it down the road. It wasnt undrivable but it felt like the timing was off like... itd build some boost but not a misfire, but just not right...

the engine reacts when injectors and coils are unplugged one at a time. so i think its timing related in some way. Never any bad noises and still 170+ psi in every cylinder....


not really sure yet.... The engine should be fine so its not catastrophic, i think. Its acting like its a timing issue so basically when i check a few more things it should be one of these things

injector issue
coilpack issue(intermittent)
wiring
ecu issue
mechanical timing issue
maybe a failed chain tensioner??

Ill be pulling the motor this weekend to reseal the rear cover and see whats up with the tensioner and replace it at the same time. Ughh

:(

Have you done an intake pressure test? I know you're running speed density but from a diagnostics standpoint it just seems like too much of a coincidence that with all the flawless miles you've put on this thing the timing just happened to jump/skip right after you messed with those vac lines. Any of them go to the fuel pressure regulator? ECU reference line? Maybe you knocked a wire or sensor loose somewhere? Like I said, just seems too coincidental, in my experience problems that crop up immediately after work being done are 90% of the time related to the work done.

Had similar happen with a subaru impreza I did a timing belt/H20 pump on. Fired it up, ran beautifully, bled coolant and went to go for a test drive, thing starts giving symptoms of jumped timing. I pulled the whole thing apart, retimed the motor even though it looked right, fired it up, same story so I started digging around. Turns out I had knocked a spark plug boot just enough that it hadn't fallen off but wasn't making good contact. Pushed it down, boom, problem solved, still running without issue today.

I agree with the above of pressure testing the intake system. Those push to connect lines can sometimes be a headache. Especially the fittings they pop into if you aren't careful when you're taking the stuff apart.

posted from a computer in my pants

yeah, your description sounds like what happens when the ECU has no vacuum reference

mushasho wrote:Pull through it man... I soo feel your pain... Hopefully the damage is easier to fix than mine...

haven't even started diagnosing yet, its getting torn into this weekend

my2000apb wrote:

mushasho wrote:Pull through it man... I soo feel your pain... Hopefully the damage is easier to fix than mine...

haven't even started diagnosing yet, its getting torn into this weekend

Damnit tim makes sure that pic makes its rounds in everyone's thread at some time or another

Unplug the vac ref for ecu. Car dies. Plenty of vacuum from the line when unplugged. Vacuum is between 15-18 at idle. Was 19-20 before. Need to find 4 more coils to switch to be sure. The engine is clming out and getting retimed/sealed either way. Too many leaks from some welds on the pan we didnt do. Aldo since i installed the rear cover first not having the pan yet i have less then desirable seal somewherr between the two. Its best to do pan then rear cover. Pain in the dick. Ill check the mechanical timing when the engine is out. Hopefully nothing catastrophic. Im not pulling the engine for nothing. I reused tensioners from a good moyorr with 28k on it. Shouldnt have, but i did. Im guessing even if i smacked a valve the block will be fine and that all that really matters cuz thats where all the $$$ is. Also having 170psi(all) makes me feel better about that theory. Ill.do some more poking bwfore i pull it but its coming out regardless.

Before you pull the motor, you have a leak down tester?

posted from a computer in my pants

bummer, but sounds like you will be ok with 170psi across the board!

@170psi it makes sense that your off boost response is so nice! Problems notwithstanding, nice numbers Jim, well built.

My leak down tester is a useless garbage harbor freight one. Doesnt work for shit. I can still do cold leakdown out of the car as i really dont want to run it again until its to pull it in for 15 secs for its surgery. Ill be using a camera to check the pistons. If there are marks the head will be replaced.

I just reviewed the firt post on this thread..holy wow. The grammar and spelling was whacked. lol sorry.

Ill post some results later too. She'll be getting torn apart a bit later.
Ill say it again the rear cover needs to be resealed. Which means engine out. Doing the chains in the car(trans off) would be a ridiculous idea, or even if its just to reseal the cover.

Im going to start the car. observe oilq pressure one more time and pull it in. I drove it around my house and down the road and back the time I washed it so itll move itself. Wish me luck.

TPP needs a shoot me in the head emoticon.

http://youtu.be/yq-lNpOYjYc

Thats just as i went to pull it in to tear down.

Yuck

Pistons are loud on startup too fyi

What comp are those jes and what'd you do for the piston to wall clearance?

posted from a computer in my pants

Upper chains look ok. Now to check timing...

8.5:1 .0035 i believe. If im incorrect its what je recommended for turbo/nitrous setup. Between .003-.005