Kevin's 200 20v

[Aktapod]

How did you reattach the headliner?

Well, I pulled off all the old fabric pretty easily. There was a bunch of red-orange crap left over, so I used a steel brush, which was very effective in removing the rest from the board. Makes a huge mess, and it's was extremely satisfying.

I used 3M 38808 adhesive spray to attach the new headliner to the board. I started in the large flat area in the back and moved outwards from there. I think it was Chris who once said "Stretching is your friend," and it's absolutely true. Spray the adhesive on both the fabric and board and wait the time indicated on the bottle to get it nice and tacky. A good amount is necessary, but don't overspray or you may soak through the fabric when you press it. Then stretch the fabric and lightly press it on, moving outwardly away from the parts you've already done. For the flat sections, it was immensely helpful to have my brother pull the fabric up and away as I took a clean paint roller and lightly pressed it to the board. For the best look, have the fabric get "laid" into position under tension when you can, rather than pressed, as it will look more uniform.

I wish I'd have figured this out earlier, but for parts that are pretty recessed with sharp corners (sun visor corners and the handles) it'll help to lay and stretch the fabric in surrounding areas in such a way that you'll have sufficient slack to press the fabric into the pocket without excessive force and stretch - or the adhesive may not be able to hold it down. Using the sun visor or whatever goes in that spot to uniformly keep it pressed is also helpful.

All in all, it's not too bad. Just be sure to carefully plan the order that you do sections in, so that you don't end up with wrinkles or a part where you physically can't spray because something you previously did is restricting you. Never cut anything until it's physically impossible to move the fabric from its position. Also, binder clips for the sunroof and any other edge that the fabric folds over. That's all I got.

[Aktapod]

Hmm, I need some opinions. As much as I'd like to stick with the factory 15" wheels forever, it conflicts with my plan to put either B5 HP2's or Touareg 17Z calipers up front. I'm getting pretty close to the wear limits on my tires, so what better time than now to change the wheels?

I've been looking for different wheels that meet most of the following criteria:
- Preferably 17"
- Cheapish
- Not too flashy
- Looks like could be from the factory to the untrained eye (I'd make an exception for some)
- Silver
- 5 or 7 spoke preferred

I think my favorite ones I've come across are B6 A4 Sport wheels, which I think would look great if I could find a local set.


That or Ronal R28's. Both simple, yet elegant. (Photo credit crash1121 on MG)


Thing is, I came across a guy at a meet selling four genuine 18" Porsche twists with tires for $200, which is pretty much a steal. Thoughts? To me, they look good, but maybe too much for the T44 (both size and flash). Might pick 'em up as it should be easy to sell them again at no loss, but they're definitely not my first choice. For what it's worth, they look great on an RS2 and UrS cars.


Anyone know of any pictures of them mounted to a Type 44? Or other suggestions for wheels I haven't heard of that kind of meet my parameters?

[loxxrider]

I have tried a multitude of wheels on my 200. One thing is pretty constant... wheels with "soft edges" are not very complimentary to the t44 shape. The B6 A4 sport wheels and the twists will not look quite right on there (as much as I love twists on more curvaceous cars like that RS2). It never hurts to have a set of twists though.

Here is a thread from MG where I posted a bunch of wheel choices on my car.

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=50687

[Aktapod]

Ooh that's a good way to qualify what I was thinking. Honestly, I'm having trouble finding much of anything that complements the T44 (hence, turning to the forum). I think I remember seeing a V8 with the A4 wheels and I really liked them, so I won't rule them out quite yet. Plus they're quite cheap.

Thanks for the link! I really like the RK's that Nick used to run, but they may be a bit out of my immediate budget - and that's money I'd rather go to performance and restoration.

[Midnight]

Have you considered B5 S4 Avus wheels. I scored a set off a wrecked S4 with good tires and good HP2 calipers and rotors for $600.

[AudiQuattros]

That or Ronal R28's. Both simple, yet elegant. (Photo credit crash1121 on MG)

Your avant?

[loxxrider]

I like those Ronals for a simple solution. They look good without being flashy.

[Aktapod]

Dmitry, I wish! I'm stuck with just a sedan for now, but maybe when I get some more space, I'll add an Avant and hope it's half as cool as yours.

I really like those Ronals, but they're quite hard to find, and apparently pretty soft and heavy. Looking for look-a-likes that might be more available, atm. However, I did find this yesterday:

I know this can be really subjective, but I think they look dynamite!

[AudiQuattros]

look good, but not great for the winter ... I would put. in the summer it is necessary to r18-19

[Aktapod]

Thanks! Unfortunately (or not?), we don't really have much of a winter where I live, so it's not really worth it to get two sets of wheels/tires. As crazy as it might sound, I actually like a nice, understated look that doesn't draw too much attention. I think one of the advantages of driving a 200 is that it doesn't have a very "loud" personality. Plus, the cops don't give me a second glance.

[Aktapod]

I'm out of school for the winter! Hopefully I'll be able to liven this thread up with some progress now.

Big thing coming up: turbo swap on the B5 (starting next week!), but I've got to fix this horrendous oil leak on the 200 first. I double checked, seriously hoping it was actually the cam seal, but the head and TB cover under it are completely dry. The leak is definitely from the front-center of the engine, and it's too high to be the the oil pan gasket. Is there anything else I might be missing, or is it pretty definitively the crank seal? I really don't want to have to do it if I don't have to.

[loxxrider]

I'm out of school for the winter! Hopefully I'll be able to liven this thread up with some progress now.

Big thing coming up: turbo swap on the B5 (starting next week!), but I've got to fix this horrendous oil leak on the 200 first. I double checked, seriously hoping it was actually the cam seal, but the head and TB cover under it are completely dry. The leak is definitely from the front-center of the engine, and it's too high to be the the oil pan gasket. Is there anything else I might be missing, or is it pretty definitively the crank seal? I really don't want to have to do it if I don't have to.

That does sound like a crank seal. I can't think of anything else it could be based on your description.

[themagellan]

Try a different oil weight if you want to get a little bit more time, hope you locate the leak.

[Aktapod]

Thanks! The 200's leaking pretty bad, so there's not really much I can do but drive as little as possible. New seal is on the way, as well as a hardened crank cog while I'm at it! Thanks, Chris!

[Aktapod]

I'm know what you're all thinking: "Hey, aren't you the guy who writes really long posts about almost nothing? What happened to you?" Not to worry, I'm still here! But I've been really busy working on another project for my dad - his B5 $4.

Firstly, merry Christmas!!


Quick rundown on what's going in:
-rebuilt K04's with brand new BW CHRA's
-034 Motor mounts and snub bracket. Yeah, yeah, I know, but from what I've heard, these seem reputable.
-Full 3" SSAC downpipes
-APR tune and fueling

So pretty much the bare minimum to get the car back in running shape after blowing the old turbos. Sometime in the future we'll get proper supporting hardware, such as intercoolers, brakes, real downpipes, and suspension, but the costs of the operation had to be kept low, so as to keep my mother happy.

Anyways, never pulled an engine before, so I hope this this goes okay:










Ready to go back in! If all goes well (which it never does) I hope to have her running this weekend.

[loxxrider]

Good work! B5S4 owners are masochists!

[chaloux]

Good work Sven. I agree with Chris lol. How long do you have to put it back in?

[Aktapod]

If only it weren't so true. I've got until school starts, but my dad is dailying the leaky 200 in the meantime, so I can take as long as I like. I'm quite ready to drive this beast, so I'm pretty motivated to get it done. I do have to go slowly, though, as I'm quite unfamiliar with the 2.7t and I'd hate to mess up a car that isn't my own.

[Aktapod]

Can anyone help identify what might cause this noise at this frequency?

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42W6AzO5jnA[/youtube]

I finally got around to fixing the 200's leak, and I let the car idle for around 2 minutes before it started and it got quite loud. I shut it off, because I didn't want to damage anything, but when I started it later, it was gone... only to come back after 2 minutes or so. This happens pretty consistently. It seems to come from under the timing cover, so I'm assuming water pump or timing idler. Is that reasonable?

It's a little hard to get off campus to where the car's at, so I'd like to figure out what I'm dealing with before then. I'll update with more interesting bits when I get everything sorted.

[loxxrider]

Not a clue...

[pilihp2]

Does it change with engine speed? higher RPM it go away?

[Aktapod]

It definitely changes proportionally to the engine speed, but I haven't revved it to the moon - only around 2k to make sure.

[Aktapod]

It almost sounds knocky, but it definitely has a belt-driven "whir" sound if you listen closely. I took a stethoscope to the valve cover, cylinder head, belt-driven accessories, and block and they were all fairly quiet, other than usual sounds.

[pilihp2]

Mine made this noise when the timing belt was not tensioned enough on one side
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUG_wvlF6Os[/youtube]

[loxxrider]

FYI there is a continental app for your phone that can help determine if the belt is tensioned right. I don't think it's a tension issue, but you never know. Mine made a funky whirring noise from the idler when it wasn't tensioned properly. I think the app is tension2go