The Project Pad

The [s]hemhorraging[/s] spending of money continues! This time with a forum sponsor.

Keen eyed stalkers will already know what I bought.

Less than thrilled with the 60-2 wheel I welded to the harmonic damper, and the craptacular bracket that came with it, and the fact that I had to cut away a lot of the lower timing cover for clearance, and needing to buy a very expensive crank sensor to make it work... $320 off to Marc Swanson at EFI Express, and I got this crank trigger rear main seal in the mail.

Wanting to do this, but not wanting to spend the money, is most of why I haven't made much progress. Didn't want to put the trans on in case I bought the seal, but didn't want to spend the money, but still MAYBE so let's leave the trans off for now, and so on for close to five years.

I have enough 10-valve spoor kicking about that sourcing another cover and damper should be a non issue.

2020 goals, VW Quantum:

After the RX-7's 12A is no longer powering the engine stand, remove Quantum engine, install on stand, and pull cylinder head to verify that things didn't rust up in the last five years. (If they did, al of the following is moot. If not, then Install new head studs, since the current set is half one type of 4cyl stud and half the other type. Remove oil pan, remove rear main seal, install crank trigger type rear main seal. Button everything up.

Disassemble the K26 turbo on the engine and the K24-7400 (S60R) turbo powering a box and meld the two, bolt up to 2 piece exhaust manifold, install on engine.

Machine as much metal as possible from heavy as berk "MC1" turbo flywheel, install along with the "Stage 1" (whatever the hell that is supposed to mean) stock-looking clutch purchased six years ago for $100 with the flywheel.

Attach 400k mile old Quantum transmission, insert drivetrain into car, purchase equipment for MIG welding aluminum, cut apart heavily-modified intake manifold because it wasn't modified the way I would like it it to be, splice in large diameter plenum chamber and rear-facing throttle body.

Figure out what the heck I'm going to do for an intercooler.

Modify cheap scratch and dent Griffin radiator to be mounted 90 degrees out of phase with newfound aluminum welding abilities.

Acquire some form of engine management. Still not sure if P38, M4.4, or MS3Pro. If you know what those TLAs are, congratulations. If not, ask your momma when you're old enough. P38 and M4.4 offer way-high geek cred, MS3Pro is more expensive but is the lazy button, also offers the option of poppitybang turbo melting antilag.

More things I am forgetting. There's a lot to do.

Ports on the 2-piece manifold are GIGANTIC compared to the one piece manifold, even after extensive porting! (And brazing, because it was cracked... they are all cracked)



Just to show it isn't an optical illusion brought about by other casting differences, here's a closer pic with exhaust gaskets laid over for reference. The 2-piece manifold's ports are actually larger than the gasket, although still contacting the fire ring.



The turbo side outlet is also significantly larger. I spent a lot of time porting this on the one piece manifold, the 2pc is as-cast. And still larger. (The wastegate outlet looks so close as to be not pictureworthy)

New plans afoot.

My Volvo needs a catalyst in order for me to re-register it in fewer weeks than I care to think about. Catalytic converters don't die, they are killed. If I pull the old cat off and find a bunch of oil residue, I will be using my K24-7400 as a replacement turbo for the Volvo instead of an upgrade turbo for the VW.

Also, the ported one-piece exhaust manifold has officially been rehomed, If I need to use the -7400 on the Volvo, I may go a different turbo route altogether for the VW. Maybe 3LDZ, maybe 5858, not sure yet.

The Volvo calmly ate a head gasket, that in a roundabout way ended up costing me pretty much my entire Quantum budget.

However, while I had the head off, I made some block shims to shore up the one weakness with Volvos, the cylinders cracking out at the top.









Now where this is relevant to Audis. In the process of repair, I originally bought a late model 2.4 engine, which is the same as the S60R engine except with 81mm bores instead of 83mm bores, so the cylinders do not have this weakness. It is generally regarded to be safe up to around the 500awhp level, unopened. More with shimming the block, because the block is still the primary weakness, not the bottom end. I still have this engine, with its steel reinforced (!) forged pistons and 22mm wristpins and 143mm rods. The stroke is 93.2mm and the deck height is slightly higher than 220mm.

I have an idea brewing in my head to use the Volvo pistons and rods in an Audi 20v engine. I still need to compare but it looks like if you cut the Audi rod journals down 1mm and narrow the Volvo rods a couple mm, and deck the Audi engine about 1.5mm, it'd work just fine. And the piston shape looks much better than anything for Audis.

One thing I do need to do is cc some cylinder heads. This is the Volvo head for comparison.



Note the angled quench pads. This engine was 300hp/300ft-lb with about 15 pounds of boost, from an 8.5:1 2.5l engine... tuned for 87 octane.

The Volvo is beefing coolant into and out of cylinder 3. Getting most depressed. Driving the shop loaner Honda Fit is making me question my choice of cars. On the other hand, a good used second gen Fit would cost about five times what doing another engine in the Volvo would cost, plus there isn't that 50-110mp "pass the zombies in their minivans on the morning commute" rush.

Anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AifMGe ... e=youtu.be

Embdding is apparently broken, linking instead.

Looks identical to the albatross in the back of the Batcave. I've got half the valves, but on the other hand I am also shooting for about half the WHP. The US record for 20v power is only 369whp, that's my bogey.

369 whp? Hmmm... Makes me wonder how close I could get haha.

DE80q wrote:369 whp? Hmmm... Makes me wonder how close I could get haha.

Do it! Give me a higher bar to limbo over, or something

What is super funny is the person who holds the 369hp record did the dyno tests at altitude and claims that it was actualy 460something corrected.

Correction factors do not apply to turbocharged cars because turbochargers compensate for altitude!!

That is as dumb as saying well, my airplane is altitude compensated up to 18,000ft, that means it makes twice the horsepower at sea level. NO IT DOES NOT.

So... Once again, my S60R ate all my money. As of 10,000 miles ago, it has a 2.4l engine in it and it runs really strong, after I replaced the parts store mystery coils with genuine Volvo. Before that it would detonate/break up over 14psi boost. It makes 18psi...

Anyway.

I'm cutting the Gordian's Knot. Half the project stall on this is that the engine and chassis as procured from a certain CIS enthusiast, was fabricated with the intent of using CIS, and I wanted to use EFI. And if I was going to do EFI, I wanted to do it "right".

Bought a supposedly good condition CIS-E fuel distributor. New plan is to use the MAC-14 for ignition, the CIS-E for fuel, and finally drive the damn thing.