The Project Pad

WOOT

You must be stoked, considering how long you had to wait!

Audilard wrote:Be sure to save the file that passed before you start messing with tuning! Then you can reload the file.

Oh yeah, saved for sure ;D


Def stoked, now I can really focus on power. I spent the afternoon playing with rpm v ref DC, got it pretty stable to 10psi boost (what the last car maxed out at). Feels great but I really need to get on the dyno to keep things safe and see how far we can go...


In case anyone is searching for WG/Boost info, I finally got around to teeing the signal line so that the lower port always gets signal and the upper is modulated by the WGFV (the valve's port vents the top when off). Works great!

Yesss! Bet you are relieved to have emissions done!

I'm creeping up from ~10psi to ~15psi. EGTs are good, I don't think I'll go further before I get on the dyno. I'll try and grab a vid this week. Plenty of other things to focus on (maintenance, windshield, brakes, seats, paint, suspension...).

More immediately, I think I need to get AN/PTFE fuel lines asap. Currently I have the "VAP" fuel line replacement setup with Gates Barricade lines and EFI hose clamps but I am pretty sure I am cheating immolation. So far this project has had 3 (IIRC) failed lines 1. My fault running a cheap rubber line for too long 2. The stock 3b feed line failed at a crimp 3. Tonight the Barricade feed line slipped off the 3b hard line/banjo. Luckily, all 3 happened when parked and, I guess, ethanol is a bit more stable.

I'm going to crank down all of the clamps in the am but I think the issue is that the Barricade has a more rigid liner which is not grabbing the barbs on the hard lines enough. There was talk on QW about this, near exact, issue and I may have been remiss in a re-torqueing. I may grab some nyloc nuts to postpone an IMS fuel rail and -6 PTFE lines.

Always something

As I've learned, it's FAR better to have driving issues than the kind that keep you tucked inside the garage for months on end.

This thread needs some Mexican vids showing this recent boost increase

I've missed a couple of sets of these and the price has gone up about 50% since my first CQ so I jumped on them:



(going to pop the glass for cleaning before install)

Thanks PRA4WX!

Get EM on and get pictures!

I've been getting boost pretty solid. Convinced myself that ~18 psi is only 14 psi at sea level (~200 kpa) so I should be good. Last week was a pretty solid 175 kpa.

The downside is that I am seeing >70% inj DC at times so I am wondering if I can trim out some fuel...I've read a bunch of different ideas about lambda targets but I'm still not 100% on where I stand as far as boost, compression, and protecting the cast pistons.

Here is what I'm thinking (the 1.10s are for my commute, pretty smooth), thoughts?

Way way way too rich. Shoot for 0.9 up to 200 kpa. 0.85 if you really want to be conservative.

loxxrider wrote:Way way way too rich. Shoot for 0.9 up to 200 kpa. 0.85 if you really want to be conservative.

So I've heard similar numbers, am I over thinking that 10.2:1 compression shifts the curve a bit? It'd be great if I'm being stupid and have plenty of injector for E85 and 200kpa

Also, don't forget E85:

Well, I'm not exactly an expert on tuning E85 just yet as I haven't done it myself, but consider that Hank is running .8-.82 lambda at 40 psi on E85. If anything, he is running higher lambda values with it than on gas. That chart does not seem to take boost into account either. For example, if you try to run .85 lambda on gas at 30 psi, you might have some issues. It would indeed probably make the most power there, but it'd likely be pretty hot.

So my point is, wait for others to respond since I'm new at E85, but I say you can lean it out the way I mentioned. I think 0.9 everywhere (possibly even leaner on the really low boost side) will do you good up to 200 kPa to be on the safe side.

So, I've toned down my lambda targets and things seem to be working fine. Still looking for slightly better spool but I think I have a few leaks which are hampering that effort.

I also have a bad TRE and I'm considering an upgrade. I've heard good things about heim joints as inners but looking at >$200 for the full boat with new, OEM style, outers from 034 is a bit much. So I'm thinking about something like this ~$50, two of these ~$30, and two outer TREs ~$30.

Any thoughts? Of course, I could just get the pair of TREs but if I'm taking everything apart and doing an alignment I may as well do it once.

Remember, not that it matters a bunch, but I am quoting lambda on the gas scale, not on the ethanol scale. If you do lambda on the ethanol scale, it is not .8-.82 lambda on the scale, and not quite as lean as it appears. This is the same reason .71-.75 lambda on the gas scale is rich misfire city if you are using lambda on the gas scale.

Lambda is lambda as long as it is 1.0:1 lambda.

FWIW, .89ish at 200ish seems to be doing fine.

Ed, if you try to make tie rods from those items you may run into some headaches. The 034 arms come with some custom spacers/collars to offset the joints in the center holder thing and size down to whatever the metric studs are (M8 or M10?). They have to be offset rearward or they will hit that holder quite badly. Also, keep in mind that the stock tie rod ends are probably threaded in metric, so you would need to figure out something funky to work on that end if you wanted to keep the stock outers.

Sam

Good points Sam, I knew about the spacers but had not considered the metric TREs. I'll probably just do my outers and take some measurements for now.

I may have to inquire about these http://daymotorsports.com/proddisp.php? ... +OEM.+Adap

Whatever you do, make sure you can adjust the toe from the wheel well. Having to loosen the interior rod end is a huge PITA. I am going to be re-doing mine because of this, and leveraging something like a rod end linkage adjuster
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-as12-12/overview/

Good idea, the main thing I need to figure out is how to run an OEM outer (metric threads). I don't think I want to run a heim in single shear...

Maybe look into having one of those thingys I posted made with the correct metric threads for the OEM tie rod end. I bet it would not be hard for an average machinist to do. The most expensive part is probably the proper metric tap.

I'm thinking that could be the way to go.

If I found a M14x1.5 link I could just use the stock adjusters or Bambridge's 17mm hex versions below. The only problem it that M14x1.5 heims for the inners are going to be less common.

Alternatively, if the taper is 7 degrees I could just get standard TREs with of the correct size.

In other news, I'm thinking about making "RS" style door cards. Really just for fun as the stock cards are not "that" heavy.

This kit seems like it could be adapted to an Audi shaped door card; I'd have to figure out the window switches and mirror adjusters (or just set the mirrors where I want them ).

Mcstiff wrote:I'm thinking that could be the way to go.

If I found a M14x1.5 link I could just use the stock adjusters or Bambridge's 17mm hex versions below. The only problem it that M14x1.5 heims for the inners are going to be less common.

Alternatively, if the taper is 7 degrees I could just get standard TREs with of the correct size.

So it looks like the cone size is 10mm and 8mm which leads me to believe that they have a 10 degree taper (I don't know the length of the cone but 11.34mm sounds close and 10 0r 7 seems to be the standard).

Once I nail down the correct size it is a matter of finding a female TRE with the correct std threads.

Or just F it and get bump steer adjustment studs and run easily replaced TREs in single sheer with these covers

Also, seals it seems like a really solid company, I'm thinking about using their Elastomer Rod ends for inners.

Mcstiff wrote:Got it out of the garage!

Wow, can't believe it has been about a year and I have not blown up the 7a Thank you E85!

Anyway, just got 16.8 MPG on a tank of E85. Mostly stop and go / 2 lane roads and I have been driving without EGO until I sort out the WBO2 heater. I'm pretty happy to be paying $2.99/Gal rather than ~$4 for 91OCT. I no longer drive near the E92 station so I'll be sticking to E85.