The Project Pad

Control arm broke broke due to reduced compliance of the delrin bushings. One can argue good vs bad bushing design, but theres nothing wrong with replacing 20 year old worn out bushings with new oem...and not running the risk.

That freaks me out. I grease mine every few months when they get squeaky

They are delrin

Kuma85 wrote:NVH?

Noise, Vibration, Harshness. Its a term most car magazines use in their ratings.

As for you're bogging problems, Have you put new plugs in yet? If not, I'd do that as well. Low
RPM, High load seems to amplify problems from bad plugs on a naturally aspirated motor.

audiPete wrote:http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=44697" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That wasn't a delrin bushing problem, that was a rusty POS control arm with a seized sleeve problem, caused by poor installation and even worse maintenance. Maybe I'm just spoiled by being out in the West but I wouldn't have put a control arm that looked like that on my car.

I'll add to the above, IMO a properly installed and maintained delrin bushing would have prevented that failure longer than a stock bushing. Reason I say that is in looking at the break it appears that the arm failed due to repeated bending loads (caused by the seized sleeve) on a part that was compromised due to rust. A properly installed/lubed delrin bushing/sleeve imparts very little bending load there, a stock bonded bushing imparts a MUCH higher load due to its design.

Thats the rub, it seems that the failures were due in part to either improperly made sleeves, or lack of awareness that this type of bushing needs periodic lubrication and therefore should be considered a maintenance item. YMMV

So SapperMike adjusted my throttle screw and messed with the idle some yesterday, car runs better and hasn't stuttered as badly as it was before. I am wondering if my knock sensor is going to shit/is shit or I need an o2 sensor or MAF. Something is not right. Checked all the hoses and I sprayed ether on them. The engine didn't rev up or anything, so no leaks I presume.

Been talking with Dave Kitterman and sent him video of my exhaust and my Roma while on the highway. But the car never does the bad stuff when I'm trying to show someone. It's like my car knows!

RPM* not Roma. Stupid autocheck

The car does know. Audi's are good like that!

As for your bushings, there is the 3rd option of urothane. That is what I am going with.

Yep everyone was right and I know I'm a dumbass. The bondo is cracking.

I'm gonna buy the good trim from Varia, after taxes come in. fiddle sticks it.

Kuma wrote:So SapperMike adjusted my throttle screw and messed with the idle some yesterday, car runs better and hasn't stuttered as badly as it was before. I am wondering if my knock sensor is going to shit/is shit or I need an o2 sensor or MAF. Something is not right. Checked all the hoses and I sprayed ether on them. The engine didn't rev up or anything, so no leaks I presume.

Been talking with Dave Kitterman and sent him video of my exhaust and my Roma while on the highway. But the car never does the bad stuff when I'm trying to show someone. It's like my car knows!

Kuma - did Mike check to see if the oring under the throttle screw was still intact? they tend to rot over time and can give you a vacuum leak - you need to completely and carefully remove the screw and check the oring.

audiPete wrote:

Kuma wrote:So SapperMike adjusted my throttle screw and messed with the idle some yesterday, car runs better and hasn't stuttered as badly as it was before. I am wondering if my knock sensor is going to shit/is shit or I need an o2 sensor or MAF. Something is not right. Checked all the hoses and I sprayed ether on them. The engine didn't rev up or anything, so no leaks I presume.

Been talking with Dave Kitterman and sent him video of my exhaust and my Roma while on the highway. But the car never does the bad stuff when I'm trying to show someone. It's like my car knows!

Kuma - did Mike check to see if the oring under the throttle screw was still intact? they tend to rot over time and can give you a vacuum leak - you need to completely and carefully remove the screw and check the oring.

ermmm, i actually have no idea. I will ask.


so i was looking at GermanAutoParts.com for suspension bits. but i am not sure if i have everything?

i need to locate the bushings too.

gotta figure out some math so i can buy this stuff a little at a time.


Make Part Qty Price Total
Audi Control arm w/ bushings $153.25 $153.25
Audi Control arm w/ bushings $153.25 $153.25
Audi Ball joint, left side $54.02 $54.02
Audi Ball joint, right side $56.23 $56.23
Audi Tie rod assembly, rear suspension. $128.47 $256.94
Audi Ball joint $51.27 $51.27
Audi Ball joint $51.27 $51.27
Audi Bushing, control arm $8.72 $34.88
Audi Bushing, control arm $8.72 $34.88
Audi Tie rod assembly, includes inner and outer ends $54.02 $54.02
Audi Tie rod assembly, includes inner and outer ends $76.05 $76.05
Audi Tie rod end, outer $19.45 $38.90
Audi C.V. Axle assembly, ***NEW*** Complete high quality aftermarket, EMPI brand, axle assembly. This is a new axle, not a rebuilt, so there is no core deposit and no exchange necessary. Includes new joints, shaft, boots, and grease. $99.50 $199.00
Audi C.V. Axle assembly, ***NEW*** Complete high quality aftermarket, EMPI brand, axle assembly. This is a new axle, not a rebuilt, so there is no core deposit and no exchange necessary. Includes new joints, shaft, boots, and grease. $99.50 $99.50
Audi Bolt, 16x72mm, 17mm hex socket head. $12.95 $51.80
Audi 17mm impact grade hex bit, 1/2 inch drive. $9.92 $9.92


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Ixnay the German auto parts. I have been informed that autohausaz is much better

1990 early build with cast control arms. wauge58b0la011644 but i am not sure if the parts on the car are the original size or not.

okay, so front control arms are original. i have a late build apparently.

i think i am going to have to come at this in a different direction.

going to do the rear suspension first and the bushings that are back there if i can manage that as well.

then move towards the front.

i found a H&R cup kit via Erhmann's suggestion on German ebay.

Kitterman has been giving me insight and info as well lately, and i thank you guys both for your help.


This next weekend since this weekend sucks dookie... I am going to be replacing the fuel filter, the rear swap bar bushings(maybe), tightening the rear strut towers, having a friend help me install some pretty dope yellow fog lights from a w126 into the spots the stock fogs go, and the alternator belt.

just some small stuff for now.

after i get some stuff sorted out with tax monies, maybe i will be able to finally execute some real work on the car.

No worries brother. I have owned mine for so long there isnt much I dont know. most of the time I cant help answering. its like trying not to breathe.

Well, thats why i text you all the time. Plus, you hold good conversations and your advice is sound from what i can tell.

im wanting to upgrade my Control Arms at some point down the road and i have noticed that Aaron did not try to use Cast control arms on the rear of his CQ. I was curious about the billet ones and the tube ones.

btw, does any one know the thread pitch for the shifter on my CQ?

Thanks to Dave Kitterman for hooking me up so i can refresh part of my suspension! I dont know how much to say thank you!


i am going to build a vacuum smoke machine thingy today with that DIY created on MG the other day.

Found my Vacuum leak.




Well, one of them. i am going to replace this part first then i will redo the smoke test.




So far this is my only update.

but yay!

those are FORGED control arms, not cast.

and i do have them on all four corners of my car

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=25630

Smart ass.

HAHAHA! She lives! AGAIN!

fixed the leak and rerouted some hoses for better since the OG one is poopie. ill add pics shortly.

YAY.

now for the suspension.


Thanks Dave Kitterman!

And everyone else who has been gracious enough to help.

this is the culprit. Dont know what its called. I repaired it with the one i made and bam. i have great idle.


after i installed the new hose with new clamps.

had to make a new hose for temp until i can get more time to work on the car, but here ya go. Dont worry, i already got the talk from Dave.