Derracuda's Project Alpine 4kq *Comatose*

Document and share your build!
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

well, back at it! it's been 100F+ here in CA and BOY does it suck. i went from 60-65F at home in oregon to this and it always kills the first day down.. blah.


first up, double adjust koni's 8)

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compression...
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rebound like standard...
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as you can see, my new inserts are a good deal shorter than the stock housings... so those will be modified accordingly. 3" shorter....
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next up... i needed more castor adjustment, so i cut the strut tower further more and moved it back about a half inch more..

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once i got the pass side all in place and looking right, i tackled the drivers side to get that out of the way.
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i used a guide string to make sure my mounting points stayed where they were supposed to....
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the tops have been moved back 1.75"...
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i'll probably pull the subframe tomorrow and rig up the drivers side control arm mountings and hopefully get the other control arm done... then the front is gonna be real close to being done. i can get the steering arms measured and built and get the engine/trans hung in place so their mounting is finalized.... oy! i'm excited 8)
HighDesertAudi

Post by HighDesertAudi »

derracuda wrote:well, back at it! it's been 100F here in CA and BOY does it suck. i went from 60-65F at home in oregon to this and it always kills the first day down.. blah.



Derek it's not much better here, it was 87F yesterday. Though I think it's supposed to cool down later this week.
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

weather has cooled down to a liveable 80ish today.. much better :)


i was playing around last night and slide the trans in to get an idea where things might be sitting, and found the need to move the heater valve up a little closer to the firewall..

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and i also found that i might need to raise the inner steering points up too, so this might be a viable solution (just need some spacers to go in the middle)
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then i got an axle in place to see how far back i could push the engine and trans and not kill the CV's... well, that's about 3" :)

not quite all the way where it should be, but close enough...
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all the way back... ( and with the wheel at full lock turning to the right putting the max stretch on the joint angles)
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i also made a temporary tie rod to see where my wheel sits at full lock, and it's plenty good 8) i've got plenty of clearance in the back, and it's real close in the front... but i'll make it work.
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also started chopping my strut tube a bit.. i'll expand on this later..
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lastly, i got the other front control arm done :D yay!
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i did it a little differently from the first one... dunno why, just felt like it :P it's all redo-able at this point since i know what to buy and how to make it.


i did make some gusset plates that i'll be putting on the other arm as well...
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WAUG0806

Post by WAUG0806 »

sweeet! great to see you tweaking the motor back as far as practical...

Nice welds. I'll have a welder in my hands soon for the first time since 12 week class 2 years ago

looks like we may finally be done with your "greater Portland weather" here - you can have it :bump:
SeStone

Post by SeStone »

I'll go out there and keel you if you put those steering rack bolts in single sheer. Also, you might want to try reading up on CVs to see if there's any issues with torque-holding ability towards the limits of their travel...I just don't want to see something stupid to happen where the CV pops out while doing donuts:p.

Also, did you check the axle clearance at the frame at full suspension compression? Can't see if the wheel is jacked up there or not.

Sam
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

SeStone wrote:I'll go out there and keel you if you put those steering rack bolts in single sheer. Also, you might want to try reading up on CVs to see if there's any issues with torque-holding ability towards the limits of their travel...I just don't want to see something stupid to happen where the CV pops out while doing donuts:p.

Also, did you check the axle clearance at the frame at full suspension compression? Can't see if the wheel is jacked up there or not.

Sam



the steering bolts i already thought of... i'd weld a lower extension on for that... don't worry, i'm not totally trying to kill myself :D


also, have you seen the dahlback golf's axles? he's got as much or more angle than i have here. the way CV cups are built, they are thinnest in the middle... there's more meat out at the edge of the cup than right where it rides 80% of the time in straight line driving.

also, the way i figure... since i'm not having a long-full travel suspension, and infact am shortening it, i have more room to play in the fore/aft department. a CV will function just fine at full droop right? it puts just about as much angle on it then as when i move it backward.

as for the axle/frame clearance, well, this subframe is narrower ;) the rails actually sit real close to the inner joint, but i may have to modify the subframe to get my extra 1'' downward movement i'm shooting for here.



in the big picture of things, even though i'm lowering the car 3" or better, the bigger tires are bring it back up a little bit, so this car won't sit slammed on the ground, and i think it'll still provide a good deal of functionality.
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

yay!! subframe is largely built and done.. just needs trans mounts 8)

i got the subframe bolted in tonight and both control arms, and it's sitting on the ground with no blocks :P man this is getting exciting! next time around i'll be working on engine and trans positioning so that i can get the axles situated and then the driveshaft....

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things ordered are the tie rod/rod ends, tubing for making the tie rods, exhaust materials, and another yukon denali exhaust tip!!!! whoo boy was it hard to find. i miss that old tip...


can't wait to get back on this thing.. it's starting to shape up and i see some kinda light in the tunnel... it could be a service light in the middle, but it's still a light :D
Andy10v

Post by Andy10v »

Awesome project.

Also real motivation for me to learn to use that welder properly, and then look at my welds in shame in comparison.

Great work and great inspiration to get modding.
cuatrokoop
Posts: 271
Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:27 pm
Location: Findlay, OH

Post by cuatrokoop »

D - what welder are you using again? Not sure if that is just flash rust at the welds or if you aren't using a high enough gas flow to shield. Any sort of air movement (say welding in an open garage) will blow the gas mix away from the tip and cause stuff like rust but also impurities in the welds (weakening the welds). Just something to think about. An inspector made a couple of our fab guys re-weld a whole enclosed fueling cabinet on a truck because the D-A's were welding with the bay door open on a windy day.

BTW, thanks for the boxes :wink:
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

hey Eric :)

yeah... it was a bit windy and i was trying to welding between the breezes and then it would get a bit fuzzy :P next time around i'll be more careful with that.


glad you got your boxes 8) looking forward to some progress on a v8q 5spd :D
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

ok, to go over my last post in regards to Eric (cuatrokoop), i've been welding inside with no wind, my argon is set at 22CFM, and i still get a bit of that brown flash stuff... sooo, i dunno. i know i got plenty of heat going into my welds, and when the wind kicks up and blows the gas away (outside welding), the welds bubble up and grow on their own, but it's not doing that now, so i feel it's workin ok as is. also the flash on the camera really makes it bright brown. and if nothing else, it should hold together long enough to get everything running and then redo it one day :P


time for a little update.. i've been working over the weekend on getting the engine and trans put into place and mounts made up. i was hoping to get 3" of movement backwards, but looks like i'll have to settle for 2.5". it'll just interfere too much with the steering arms and the back of the head. the whole package is also sitting about 1.75" lower than it normally would... so these things should help my CG a bit.

engine and trans on the floor...

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setting in about where i want it....
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temporary conduit trans mount :P
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where the steering arms are gonna have to shimmy through...
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good thing i'm shortening the steering arms 1" like i did on my zermatt car (nevermind the rediculous long bolt with spacers, it was just to get the steering arm mounted in it's proper path)
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low and deep..
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car on the ground with weight on the springs and at the lowest adjustable point, the pan is 5" from the ground. it'll come up a bit with proper ride height adjusted and the bigger wheels/tires.
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next thing i ran into, the manifolds were pretty much making out with the frame rails...
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and i needed it to go 3/4" towards the pass side to center the engine in the bay, and make my driveshafts equal lengths. so i opted to notch the frame rail on the pass. side. i think it's about 1.5" or so.
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hey! a headlight clip! (and a lot of shavings :P )
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i found a nice square chunk of steel to work with...
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and ended up with this..
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now i have a little breathing room
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i noticed when i cut the frame rail, that there's an inner runner, so effectively the frame rail isn't just a hollow horn, it's fairly sturdy. the piece i welded in is a bit thicker than the stock sheetmetal, so it should be plenty strong.

after all that, i got on the trans mounts...
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i had to shave this bushing to get it! :P
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there's enough room between the floorboard, subframe, and mounts to allow my exhaust to run over the tops of the axles and through the gauntlet so that everything stays tucked up tightly to the floor and away from the ground. the exhaust is 2.25" dual, and is 409 SS. i got some toyota tundra dual exhaust kit off ebay for a decent price, and it's all mandrel bent.

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the trans cross member/mount is fully removeable and ties the rear half of the subframe together unlike a stock setup. the round mounts are poly leaf spring bushings from a chevy truck. i wanted compact and tidy, i think this will work out. the mounts on the side of the trans are tucked tightly so that i don't have to pull them to remove the trans like a factory setup.


next i got on the engine mounts. i'm not completely done, but this is how far i've gotten. it's not necessarily asthetically pleasing to look at, but sometimes that can't be done, and strength trumps looks at this point. i've done my best to make most things bolt in and not irreversible, so that later on i can change them up if i get bored and want to re-fabricate everything :P the pass. side also allows for the starter to be removed without pulling the mount, or dropping the subframe like on my A6.

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last bit to do on it is some triangulation braces for my own piece of mind. i've seen some other guys weld angle iron to their frame rails, then just jut a piece out to hold the engine, but i'm kinda crazy sometimes with over beefing certain pieces, like the engine :P

drivers side still needs some finishing.
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while i had it all together, i test fit my axle, and the first hybrid i built came up short, soooo, i grabbed one of my A6 auto axles and tried it out... bingo!

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here you can see the castor i'm getting :D
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well, that's all for now. i'm gonna try and wrap up the engine mounts tonight and set the car up for building the front struts since they too are being built from scratch for these stupid wheels. i plan on making the car look absolutely awesome so that if it sucks to drive, i can at least stand back and go.. "man, those wheels are soooo wide!" :P lol.
bimmerboy

Post by bimmerboy »

I had not seen all this yet, thats pretty damn amazing.
HT Motorsport
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am

Post by HT Motorsport »

Argon is your problem Derek, for MIG you should be using Argonarc which is a mix of CO2 & Argon, 75%25% I think. For really thick stuff you can add 0.1% or something of Hydrogen. Cant remember exactly as its late in Dubai...

Streight Argon is for TIG only.

Not read the rest of your post yet, just thought I would add my 2C on the welding thing first.
HT Motorsport
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am

Post by HT Motorsport »

As for the rest of it...OH YEAHHHHHH :)
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

timmmy wrote:Argon is your problem Derek, for MIG you should be using Argonarc which is a mix of CO2 & Argon, 75%25% I think. For really thick stuff you can add 0.1% or something of Hydrogen. Cant remember exactly as its late in Dubai...

Streight Argon is for TIG only.

Not read the rest of your post yet, just thought I would add my 2C on the welding thing first.




the bottle is argon/CO2 mix. the % isn't stated where i can see it (or at least not on the tag at the top of the bottle). and i have a separate bottle of straight argon for the TIG.
a_CQ

Post by a_CQ »

Nice work D!

Question what springs are in the last picture? Something progressive? Wider than standard 2.5"?
oldsklaudidub

Post by oldsklaudidub »

:o
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

a_CQ wrote:Nice work D!

Question what springs are in the last picture? Something progressive? Wider than standard 2.5"?



they are 2.5" 430lb/in, 7" tall springs. i ran 8" tall 400lb springs previously, but when i ordered these up, the didn't have them in 8" tall, so i took the 7" which are apparently wider in the middle for whatever reason ... works out fine for my application. once the shorter struts are installed, pretty much all the free space up top will be taken up. 3" shorter strut plus upward adjustment on the collars...
a_CQ

Post by a_CQ »

Cool thanks...they do look wider in the middle which got me confused at 1st place...
WAUG0806

Post by WAUG0806 »

d3r3ksaid: ""if it sucks to drive, i can at least stand back and go.. "man, those wheels are soooo wide!" ""

I hope it's nice to drive AND cool to look at!

Noice woik!

Do you still need me to measure thos halfshafts I was gonna measure 3 weeks ago :? self >>> :bashtard: <<< self
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

hey Doug :) thank on the axles, but i can pass now. i think i've got it covered now. sorry i forgot to send you a message about that.
Wizard-of-OD

Post by Wizard-of-OD »

Looking really damn good D :woowoo:
Toxcheap

Post by Toxcheap »

Wow Derek you have got a lot done, nice work!
derracuda

Post by derracuda »

thanks Myke and Sammy! :)
Belgarion115

Post by Belgarion115 »

Umm.. wow. I am simply blown away by how much work you've put into this. I just read (skimmed for pictures and read text around them ;)) the whole thing and I just can't believe it. simply incredible.
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