The Project Pad

Wait I am confused. The Machined portion is facing the engine or tranmission?

The machined side of the hub faces the tyranny. The input shaft isn't splined far enough to not bottom out on the hub so as bolts are tightened it pushes the hub towards the flywheel distorting the disc in the process. The spec flywheel side sticker is still on the other side so its installed correct.

A potential clue to the mystery...
torsen 016:



...and excuse the grease. I don't mean to dirty up your nice clean thread.

If it's any help my setup is flat flywheel, southbend clutch & pressure plate for the flat flywheel, urq 016 trans, urq throwout fork and bearing. Input from the local CO urq guys said the t/o bearing needs to match the transmission. I had a 91 200 t/o bearing and fork along side the urq parts and they were different. Sorry but I didn't take measurements. I think you will have this one figured out quickly.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll have to do some measuring and comparing tomorrow and see what I've got.

Chris, Thanks for the picture. I'll have to see what the Urq 016 length is. Measuring from the bottom of the pilot hole out to the outside edge of the disc hub is ~3 1/8", but I doubt if the shaft bottoms out in the hole so your picture might be just about right. Question though.....you like those blue gloves? I only use white gloves if anything.

I hate these blue gloves. HF garbage. I tore three gloves (left hand) trying to put them on yesterday. I laughed as I pictured myself returning them to HF and telling them all of the left-hand gloves were defective. Believe me, I much prefer the white gloves for durability.

Has nothing to do with durability, but rather white gloves are easier to see if things are dirty or not. :wink:

dbldmnd wrote:If it's any help my setup is flat flywheel, southbend clutch & pressure plate for the flat flywheel, urq 016 trans, urq throwout fork and bearing. Input from the local CO urq guys said the t/o bearing needs to match the transmission. I had a 91 200 t/o bearing and fork along side the urq parts and they were different. Sorry but I didn't take measurements. I think you will have this one figured out quickly.

Agreed.

The throw out bearing and arm is completely different on torsen cars (MC2 and 3B, read flat flywheels)
as opposed to non torsen cars (Ur-q and MC1, read dished flywheels)...
my feeling is that you need a new style arm and throw out bearing.

Hope this helps in some way.

Cheers

So John, are you saying that you tried to sneak a Torsen'd 016 in this car without the rest of us knowing?

Karma itself kept her off the road lol

Those shady Iroz boys...

No, not a torsen 016, but basically the flywheel and pressure plate for one (read flat flywheel). I think is what Martin is saying is that with the flat style flywheel I may need the arm and throwout bearing to match. Sean you still offering your tranny mount to use with my floor jack? When you in town?

Im home for another whole week. you are welcome to use the trans adapter for the jack. get ahold of me with your schedule and / or I can leave it out for ya

Can I swing by and pick it up on the bike? Will it fit? I have the weekend off so maybe Friday sometime I can come by.

Friday is good - Im home all day

There is a case for it, but make sure u don't need my jack too.

You think it will fit in my top box? If so, and you would set it out, I would slide on by on my way home from work in the morning about 6 or so.

Can't wait for some vids of this thing zipping around on Saturday! :wink:

:woowoo: :woowoo:

Not as much as I do Peter!! We will see.

quattro87 wrote:You think it will fit in my top box? If so, and you would set it out, I would slide on by on my way home from work in the morning about 6 or so.

Sorry. just got this now... I have seen you haul a 3" UrQ downpipe on that motorcycle so I know there are possibilities lol

I didn't hear back so I just went on by this morning. I almost needed to stop to warm up. 45deg is about cold on a bike. :(

I'm sure Martin will correct if I'm wrong, but I think the way the parts match up regardless of the flywheel/clutch:

016 locker -> urq t/o bearing and fork
016 torsen -> torsen t/o bearing and fork

You do need the correct pilot bearing for the trans, I remember needing to get an urq pilot bearing because the 20vt pilot bearing didn't fit the end of the 016 locker main shaft.

That is pretty much how I thought it should work. I kept the Urq arm and throwout bearing. Since my block and crank were out of an AAN the the crank didn't even have a pilot bearing in it. It has to be the smaller pilot to match the 016 input shaft. Thanks for the input.

dbldmnd wrote:I'm sure Martin will correct if I'm wrong, but I think the way the parts match up regardless of the flywheel/clutch:

016 locker -> urq t/o bearing and fork
016 torsen -> torsen t/o bearing and fork

You do need the correct pilot bearing for the trans, I remember needing to get an urq pilot bearing because the 20vt pilot bearing didn't fit the end of the 016 locker main shaft.

Actually I think it's more dependant on the flywheel/clutch you use.
Flat flywheel, use torsen fork/to bearig
Dished flywheel use locker fork/to bearing.

Mike H had MC2/3B flywheel/clutch in his Ur-q with locker 016 and had used the matching fork/to bearing (new style) with good result.
He just wanted the WX to rev up quicker..

I also used that setup on the 7A 4kq... locker gearbox, 3B flywheel and clutch with new style fork/to bearing.

HTH

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Datapoint FYI - my setup:
3B motor
016 locker transmission
3B flywheel
3B Southbend clutch
016 locker clutch fork (urq/5kcstq)
016 locker t/o bearing (urq/5kcstq)
016 locker pilot bearing (urq/assume same as 5ktcsq)

I've used this setup on both the original urq locker transmission and, ahem, a few 5ktcsq boxes.

Good info Brandon, that's basically my setup in the urq and it seems to work fine for the few miles I have driven it.

Well just to confuse things a little more, let me throw in another data point.

My setup is AAN engine, 3B FW + disc + PP, 016 locker (code AGD from a 5000 quattro) and the correct fork & release bearing for the transmission.

The setup absolutely works - there are no shifting issues and the clutch holds with 20 PSI boost. But... the clutch engages with the pedal *very* high off the floor. It's drivable but definitely doesn't seem right.

The funny thing is it originally wasn't so bad, but recently I replaced all the worn-out hardware that was causing a ton of slop between the master cylinder and the pedal, and that made things worse! :(

ralleyquattro wrote:I also used that setup on the 7A 4kq... locker gearbox, 3B flywheel and clutch with new style fork/to bearing.

HTH

Hey not to threadjack but... does anyone know of a source to get that release fork new? ETKA says it's NLA and I checked a few aftermarket sources with no luck.