The Project Pad

ShavedQuattro wrote:Aw, yes, that is the deal. Yeah, mine are for the VW application. They are pretty darn thick. Anything is possible though I suppose. I wish I would have put more caster into mine. At the very most forward possition, I am at stock camber(or 0) so I think i only get about 4 degrees with the camber plates right?

with the setup you have, i don't think you could get more than about 2...maybe 3 degrees of castor. my upper strut mounting points are now 2.5" further back than factory and i'm at about 6 degrees ... and that's about stock on an E30.

What engine is that Derek? Your valve covers look different than mine....

mdg3369 wrote:What engine is that Derek? Your valve covers look different than mine....

that's because you're missing 8 valves my friend

derracuda wrote:my friend

:cheers: everybody drink!

what? mike's my friend, isn't he :?

needs R8 intake manifold!!!!

Attachment ( 13631 ) : audi_R8_2008-e03-800.jpg

strut time


i bought Koni 8611 dual adjust struts (yes, rebound like the standard yellows, AND compression 8) ) so i can have a little more tunability in my car's reactions. i didn't buy the correct length units though.. on purpose. i bought the shortest ones that would fit in my strut housings so that with all the lowering going on, the struts wouldn't be closer to bottoming out instead of the middle of their travel range like they should be.




2 5/8" need to be taken out of the strut tubes for proper fitment of these new struts.


the smaller sleeve goes inside for strength and alignment of the strut housing


then slide together


ahh, just the right length


then drill the bottom for access to the compression adjuster


ready for welding. i drilled holes for spot welding the tubes to hold them in place, then seam welded them



here you can see the sleeve inside


starting assembly..


mounted up in the plates




they will make the car sit low... real low


here's the wheel at full droop


it's a little bit hard to tell, but it's about 2" + higher than the rear wheel at full droop (rear is still stock)


the compression adjuster in the hole





i may have to rebuild the subframe again to give a little more height in the inner control arm mount points.






the rear will be getting the same treatment once i get the steering arms finished up front and probably axles. *sigh* so much work left to do....

How low will you go?



(That's stock by the way)

what is that, a pontiac solstice??

looks a little lower than stock to me..

derracuda wrote:what is that, a pontiac solstice??

looks a little lower than stock to me..

With the optional suspension, and I'm assuming it has shorter tires too, but who knows. You're really going all out with this eh? It's moving along quite nicely!

maybe this low?


(i apologize for the crappy mobile pic, saw it on campus and couldnt resist.)

Derek, are you still going to use the Porsche wheels?

apavlov13 wrote:Derek, are you still going to use the Porsche wheels?

we'll see....

thegetawaycar wrote:

Derek, if you get it that low you and Trevor could be best friends! Imagine all the not driving it you could do!

i could lay unibody!!! *sparkshowers*

Derek...few questions...

1/Why did you orient those camber plates that way? Are you planing on keeping the constant camber and adjusting the castor?

2/Bottom adjuster on the shock - can you switch to a allen-type screw there? the reason is when you install your axles and CV boots, it will be very hard to slide a flat head, even a stubby, in there to adjust.

3/What is the total travel differential between that shock and say standard Koni application for these cars? I don't know if you mentioned this before too, but what Koni shock is that(the short one)?

I've contemplated about doing similar for my car. Finding a shock that's similar in dimensions and double adjustable and then just making it fit my strut housing...It takes some time to do it though...

a_CQ wrote:Derek...few questions...

1/Why did you orient those camber plates that way? Are you planing on keeping the constant camber and adjusting the castor?

2/Bottom adjuster on the shock - can you switch to a allen-type screw there? the reason is when you install your axles and CV boots, it will be very hard to slide a flat head, even a stubby, in there to adjust.

3/What is the total travel differential between that shock and say standard Koni application for these cars? I don't know if you mentioned this before too, but what Koni shock is that(the short one)?

I've contemplated about doing similar for my car. Finding a shock that's similar in dimensions and double adjustable and then just making it fit my strut housing...It takes some time to do it though...

#1. i don't want to set crazy camber. i'm more interested in dialing in the castor and centering the wheel in the wheel well for proper functionality. right now i get about 1 degree of negative camber(on the outside wheel) when i turn. stock is 0... and actually dips into the positive once the car rolls over a bit on it's side.

#2. i'm going to find a insert bit for a screw gun or whatever and make a little handle for it. i had no choice in the adjuster spec.

#3. i did say they are 8611 models, and there are several length/diameter choices to make. you can find them on summit's website, or go straight to koni's site and find all the dimensions on the struts you need

yes... one more piece of the puzzle fitted in place..

Ohhhhh.. IIc for the V8!!!! I hope that the ECU see's double duty in the other 4ktq!!! Very cool man. I love the Firewall connector too. Very nice. I wanna rewire my coupe soo bad. That poor harness has been through 2 cars and 3 different engines.

Did you mount your ECU like that so you could easily share the ECU?
I think I like my ECU mounting more. I am not taking credit for it.. Sean ( QuattroV1.0 did mine). It is pretty trick. It is behind the glovebox, but it has the LED part cutout... It would be hard to share ECU's with it like I have it.. But I like it.

Derek, were did you get your bulkhead connectors?
I hope the split wire loom is just temporary...

right now, the ECU will have only one function... making the alpine car run. the 20vt zermatt car will be getting an AAN conversion with 034's 3071 chipset, so no need for tuning on it

i did the harness this way so that it's easy to undo either half of the harness. if i want to remove the engine, one plug for pretty much everything. after working on the newer audi's that have fairly simplified harnesses, i've made a goal of modelling this build after that.


as for the split loom... eh, it's just under the dash. i won't us it in the engine bay though, it sucks once it's gotten hot

i got the amp connector at a local electronics store in the clearance bin for $1... the only one! but then i had to spend $20 in pin yikes!

Mark,

There are places like Allied Electronics and Newark that carry those bulk head connectors. Also a more obscure one that has Mil-Spec stuff is TT Electronics.

http://www.alliedelec.com/Circular-Conn ... e=2314&M=1

That should take you to a page that you can select how many contacts you need in your circular connector.

Yeah, yeah, Nate, I know you guys have them. :wink:
I was just curious where he got them, as they looked different.

Thanks Koop, I was looking for a place that had metal/MIL Spec connectors. I'm worried about the durability of the plastic ones.

RSCoupe wrote:Yeah, yeah, Nate, I know you guys have them. :wink:
I was just curious where he got them, as they looked different.

Thanks Koop, I was looking for a place that had metal/MIL Spec connectors. I'm worried about the durability of the plastic ones.

in defense of the plastic ones, bmw has been using them for 20+ years and at least IME, we've never had to repair one from breaking.

Do you run the VR sensor in the bulk head? Any problems with interference?