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Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 1:56 pm
by repomanpro
Looking good Aaron, Let me know if you have the paint to finish the front
bumper next saturday. We are going to the DJM BBQ on Sunday.
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:11 pm
by zerb
nah, the ones mid-way up the door. but looking more closely now, it seems you just painted right over them
and you got on the farking roof to take pics, hah.
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:26 pm
by speeding-g60
those are color matched from factory? at least every CQ i can think of was that way?
same as on my Lago one....
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:27 pm
by speeding-g60
and Don, thank you for painting that. it looks FORKING AWESOME!!!!
and Johnny, yeah i did get up on de roof to take a down-shot of it
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:17 pm
by speeding-g60
chipping away at stuff..... put on for final the rear bumper and the driver side skirt. had to wait til that beautiful paint got laid down. its hot out, and i have been cleaning up/arranging the garage space after the paint task yesterday.
cleaned the windows (they needed it bad) and hooked up WB02.
and i am really tired of not having things i ordered well in advance. since my twin-disc flywheel is with the motor, and the motor is STUCK in customs, i cant wait any longer. so i bought a new twin-disc clutch ($1300 OUCH) just to get the flywheel to balance this motor. they were supposed to send it out ASAP. was SUPPOSED to be here to me by Friday. nope, no such luck, they did not even send it :curses: :? :bullshits: :curses:
so i am gonna be the most pissed off DOOD ever if my new $1300 clutch arrives on same day or later than my original one that is with the shortblock. one pissed off dude for certain. only spent that money on the premise that it would be shipped the very next day, and it wasnt. i will use the clutch when i mod the rabbit with an extra Quattro drivetrain i have here laying around, but i did not need to spend that right now for sure.
and thats the kind of frustration that makes a fella wanna up and quit for awhile a project such as this. but now that it is all pretty and sparkly and shiny, i have more will to work on it LOL.
speeding-g60 wrote:both door bars and driver side sill bar need made and done.
need to run and terminate the sender units for engine monitoring stuff. figure out brake lights maybe. thats low priority though.
make a sunroof delete panel lexan.
make side/lower mounts for radiator.
finish plumbing oil cooler lines.
cooling lines need finished. these are really close to being done. just need to get some hose.
have clutch line made after i figure out what thread configuration the ends are for the master and slave.
need to figure out rear calipers for e-brake. Derek says i can redo the park brake things. gotta take that apart to see.
gotta wire in the driver window switch.
gotta make a hanger for the exhaust, when its back on the car. i want to make a beauty plate to fill the oversized hole they put in the fender for it.
gotta take it to get aligned once i am done dicking with the suspension.
and i still have yet to think about limiting the front end.
gotta mount the radiator overflow can, and plumb it in.
i have to figure out a throttle cable, and make mounting stuff for it. figured, needs executed.
need to remake the WG dump tubes and figure out plumbing on the dual WG's. i got some SS flex tube for that. will make the required shape for the dumps, and then tack them into that configuration.
need to finish welding closed all the unused holes on the firewall.
oh yes, drain and fill trans and diff, install welded center diff, pull this block out and install pink block, once we go thru the bottom end with a new crank and new bearings, etc.
wire in the starter button, where the key used to be.
final mount the AWIC and reservoir. after i weld in the pass side door bar.
mount harness and final mount seat and seat back brace.
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:29 pm
by zerb
whats wrong with your ebrakes? you have fluid in the system and still nothing?
cause if so then my idea of me not having anything bled= my ebrakes not working, may go out the window.
and ya, those strips on my sedan are black. thats what i was wondering.
also. if i remember on my way out the door tomorrow i can see what threads are on clutch master/clutch slave, cause i have the line laying around the garage..........somewhere.
if i get the pitches i can tell you whats what, get some adapters from metric bubble flare, which is im sure what the threads are. and then throw a ss braided line together for you at work.
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:27 pm
by speeding-g60
that would be sweetness, J.... and that line is not bubble flare, it is inverted actually, both ends. :? but that is the plan, find fitting, have SS braided teflon inner lined clutch line made. it would be roughly the same as what you need.... and thats what i did with the rabbit. but i had the appropriate AN adapters silver-soldered to the actual factory lines, about 2" long or so. the clutch master was Wilwood so i could get the 1/8" NPT x AN fitting easily.
and i looked at about 100 coupes and S2's, they are all body color matched trims....
and about those E-brakes, i dunno.
the little arm moves on the caliper, but not enough to stop the wheel. and i tried it all ways.... and i did bleed the brakes, so i know thats not it. the pedal stops the wheel moving, but not the park brake.
Derek told me i can take that little e-brake actuator arm apart and clean it. the cable is about maxxed. maybe i go out there right now and fork with that and see what i see. yeah.....
man that paint is a pretty color
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:47 pm
by zerb
i fvcked with the ebrake cable for a while, but i gave up until i get fluid in the system and bleed the brakes. cables are new, calipers are new, so we'll see.
the cable ends, just looking at em, look like 13x1.0mm thread, inverted flare...youre right on the not being bubble thing.
i dont see were rusells or earls makes 13mmx1.0mm inverted flare male to any type of -an male fitting, so the only way out of it may be soldering some things together.
its too bad you couldnt just take a brake line nut with the appropriate thread and have a -4an fitting welded onto it. but i think the line with the flare in there is needed to make the seal, i could be wrong though.
ill have to take a look through the fitting book at work tomorrow and see if anyone makes anything thatd help.
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:56 pm
by speeding-g60
the line with the fitting end does need to be there to seal it. BUT: they do make a solid fitting for braided lines that takes place of that. just a matter of finding it.
and if i cant find one, i make one. simple.
Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:26 am
by zerb
right. that little guy on the right there, they make those for brake line stuffs. but all ive seen is them in 10mm thread, and i think the clutch cylinders seem to have a larger thread, which means we'd have to make somethings.
Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:30 pm
by speeding-g60
made sunroof panel today, and 3/4 framed it in. i need one more piece of aluminum angle, and then i need to pre-camber the rear arch so it sits flush. the front was easy. the back has no real lip to attach to so i need to span the sides....
not a problem, just need material.
Lexan is 1/4" thick, more leftover stuff. gonna shoot it the body color from the inside before i final install it
i think black would be hot in the sun anyways.
i painted the driver floor, and thats really about it.
so still just picking away at the list.
also ran the WB02 and EGT wiring underhood, as well as wired them in final-like.
i think i will toss in the mock-up block tomorrow, and a spare head. then attach turbo and manifold, and mount the exhaust. that way i can cut off the excess pipe out of the fender, and get the exhaust wrapped. maybe i can leave it there and then final mount the fender and skirt?
and i spent a good deal of time researching brake line fittings. i am ditching the stock hydraulic clutch line, in favor of SS braided line. i will give up that info with part numbers and line length when i figure it all out. but that should give a little firmness to the clutch pedal at least.
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:07 am
by RSCoupe
speeding-g60 wrote:...and i spent a good deal of time researching brake line fittings. i am ditching the stock hydraulic clutch line, in favor of SS braided line. i will give up that info with part numbers and line length when i figure it all out. but that should give a little firmness to the clutch pedal at least.
Oh good! I'm very interested in this, as I couldn't find -04AN adapters to go to the metric threads at the master and slave. :-)
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:47 am
by a_CQ
Are those threads really M13x1mm??
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:50 am
by zerb
12mmx1.0 inverted flare. 6mm brake line.
so if you go to the flaps and get an inverted flare 12mmx1.0mm nut, the line will not fit in there cause its meant to accept 3/16 or 1/4, two different nuts obviously. but a 3/16 is too loose, and 1/4 is just a TAD too big.
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:56 am
by audifreakjim
zerb wrote:right. that little guy on the right there, they make those for brake line stuffs. but all ive seen is them in 10mm thread, and i think the clutch cylinders seem to have a larger thread, which means we'd have to make somethings.
I just finished doing the master cyl to slave cyl hose. The fittings are 12x1mm, but very deep. I started with off the shelf adapters, but found they did not work perfect because of the depth. I made it work by bottoming out the adapter on a crush washer and will post pics in my thread later. If I was to redo it, I would take the factory line out and have new fittings brazed on like above. This is how I did my power steering and it works great.
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:57 am
by speeding-g60
speeding-g60 in IM with zerb RE: this line wrote:[/quote]
i am getting these ordered tomorrow from this place. 2 fittings and 1 each hoses. these fittings look to be the ones that wont need crush washer, o-ring, etc. they "look" better.
i will let you know ASAP. whats that $40 or so plus ship? FARK it. i dont have to go anywhere Smile. i compared threads, it is 1.0 pitch. i measured a known fitting, 10mm x 1.0 and it was 9.8xmm. measured the clutch line fitting, it was 11.8xmm. so it is by assumption a 12mm x 1.0 inverted fitting. which would be convex by their description.
who knows i may start a revolution LOL.
http://www.dash3.com/maleadapt.html305-04-M12S -4 TO 12MM X 1.00 - STEEL (CONVEX SEAT) $3.50
610418 -4 FEMALE STRAIGHT TO STRAIGHT 18 4 $9.80
610420 -4 FEMALE STRAIGHT TO STRAIGHT 20 4 $10.40
610422 -4 FEMALE STRAIGHT TO STRAIGHT 22 4 $11.30
check pg 7 here, PN SBH8070
http://www.classictube.com/pdfs/stopflex_catalog.pdf
and then look @ HFMM05 on page 45 here:
http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/cata ... _20248.pdf
but then if i follow the legend, it would say that M12 x 1.25 is EU (european) and then be this one: HFMM17 on page 45 as well:
http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/cata ... _20248.pdf[/quote]
so does anyone have any input? glad to hear it if you do....[img]
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 7:19 am
by speeding-g60
ok so i spoke with the guy on the phone, and this is what i need he said. and i will make it a DIY when i validate this to make sure it works.
here is the skinny, and the exact part numbers i ordered.
i ordered 4 fittings (2 cars) and 3 lines, to make sure i got the right ones. i measured roughly 18 inches, so i got 18, 20, 22. for $10 each i cant go wrong. he also recommends i go -3AN as it will provide faster response and more line pressure.
306-03-M12S -3 TO 12MM X 1.00 - STEEL (CONCAVE SEAT) $3.50 X 4
610418 -4 FEMALE STRAIGHT TO STRAIGHT 18 4 $9.80 X 1
610420 -4 FEMALE STRAIGHT TO STRAIGHT 20 4 $10.40 X 1
610422 -4 FEMALE STRAIGHT TO STRAIGHT 22 4 $11.30 X 1
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:19 am
by Wizard-of-OD
Well in CANADA...we only use metric fittings
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:26 am
by my2000apb
Wizard-of-OD wrote:Well in CANADA...we only use metric fittings
(napolean dynamite voice)
LUCKY! ugh
oh issam you dont use AN fittings up there? :?
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:35 am
by derracuda
where is the sunroof update!?! the topic title is so misleading!!!! :frustrated:
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 7:59 pm
by speeding-g60
i did the work. almost complete. update enough. i have to figure something for the rear edge, but front and sides are mounted. and it fits great, looks great. i will paint it body color from the inside so it is nice and shiny from the out. black will radiate heat that i dont want really. gonna be hot enough wearing a full suit in the long run.
and you get to see firsthand the progress this thing gets or doesnt. unlike EVERY OTHER PERSON ON HERE LOL.
i mounted the radiator lower mount today. and painted the upper bar finally.
tomorrow i will final install the fuel pumps, etc. i am half tempted to spend 24 minutes and put a motor back in, so i can final mount the exhaust and make its bracketry. and then final mount the fender and skirt for that side as well.
just seems like soooo many 20-30 minute stuffs to do. never know which to do. tonight i started on one thing and ended up working on a completely different item. ADHD i tell ya....
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:18 pm
by speeding-g60
i also mounted the fuel injectors and rail to the manifold. and have the throttle cable figured, just need to tack it in place. another reason for the mock up motor to go back in. but i dont have a welder at the moment to do the tacking so i will wait.
here are the requisite pictorz, D. just cant wait a few days to see it in person LOL.
Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:18 pm
by my2000apb
keep chuggin man, dereks making good headway for waterlands, you better be ready and able to beat him
Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 4:59 am
by Acidburn
Looking good, i'd started reading this when you posted up on s2forum.
with regards to the e-brake are you bleeding the system with the handbrake off? as that has been known to cause problems before.
Look forward to seeing vids of this running, love the huge garage to work on it in.
Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 6:22 am
by speeding-g60
yes, i bled the brakes with the handbrake off. should i do it otherwise? the calipers do move with the hand brake, but not enough to grip the rotor.
and thanks for stopping by and checking in on it here. i get alot more <3 here than on S2forums for sure....
and i recognize the name from over there.