The Project Pad

Posted: **Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:19 pm**

just worked a bit on setting up the pink motor to display this weekend...

and working on the center diff swap for the welded unit.

and i was browsing for this and that, and came across some pertinent info for the clutch line stuff i have been working on. the EXACT PN for the Goodridge M12 x 1.0 x -3AN fitting....

i WILL have a DIY up whence i finish the test of it. my parts have been ordered and should be here shortly.

this short post is to give the PN info for replacing that clutch line and slave on the newer 01E trans' that have the retarded clip type setup with a good old fashioned regular(ish) hydraulic fitting. and then making the -3AN line to replace the old weather checked rubber section and hardline with one single SS Braided line.

M12 x 1.0 inverted flare to AN-3 fitting available from Goodridge P/N 306-03-M121D.

The Audi slave P/N 4A0721261 will fit the 01E.

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.p ... 1181360837

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.p ... 1181360837

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.p ... 1184180178

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:19 am**

Good information there, especially since the Audi 4KQ/QSW/presumably 80Q clutch hose has been NLA for some time now.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2009 9:54 am**

Here is my solution
http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... 265#348265

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:33 am**

any pros/cons to the -4 or -3 line. im going to grab those two fittings Jim got from summit and make my line out of 1/4 ss braid that i have here at work.

oddly enough even after i got the part # from jims thread i went back through the Earls fitting book and its def not listed in there, lol

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:41 am**

For brake lines, -3 is closest to factory. For the clutch, the factory line is closer to -4. You are actually moving more fluid through the lines so a bigger line will offer less restriction for the fluid. The size doesn't matter for pressure because that calculation is based on the piston size at both ends, not the line connecting them.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:39 pm**

so i got a lot done today actually. and probably nothing on the "LIST" either LOL.

front bumper painted.
windshield wings painted. driver side installed.
sunroof panel painted. still need to make back side mount thing.

the rear end, i got the E-brake to work finally. i went to the wreckers today for some wandering around time.... while the paint "dried" so to speak. came upon a pair of G38 rear calipers. they seemed seized, i worked on them for a good 30-40 minutes and got one to "work" so i thought. but it dawned on me that since my calipers were working but not pressing far enough to clamp with park brake... they must still be fine. so i played around with mine at home.

i pulled e-brake, and nothing. pumped brakes with e-brake pulled, nothing. pushed pedal and held while pulling e-brake. VIOLA!!!! i have a park brake. double check it, release and wheels turn. set, and wheels dont. WOOHOO!!!!! just needed to "set" the e-brake part of the caliper closer to the rotor is the only way i can explain it.

so back to the days work. i put the welded diff in for good. then i put the driveshaft in. spin a front wheel, all wheels spin in the same direction. good sign. haha.

i moved on to the rear end. just went thru everything making sure everything is tightened, etc. still need to do the control arm bolts, but all else is good. tossed a ghetto alignment on the rear trying to get toe close. got the spacers sorted out for the rear tie rods. now they are finalized. and i finally put all the clamps on the CV boots.

while at the wrecking yard, i had to find some inner door handles, like old school rabbit style that bolt to the door not incorporated in a door panel. i wound up with a pair from Pathfinder/Hardbody truck. one red, one tan. tweaked the hook on the cable, screwed to the inner structure, now i have inside handles. WOOT!

tossed the front bumper on for a quick pic. looks sharp. and tomorrow i plan to at least finalize the pass side door bar so as to complete that side of the car cage-wise. do the sill bar for the driver side, and maybe do the harness mounts. could possibly do the door bar for the driver side as well.... dunno. we will see how i feel.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:45 pm**

speeding-g60 wrote:driver side sill bar and then door bar need made and done. NEEDED.

need to run and terminate the sender units for engine monitoring stuff. NEEDED.

figure out brake lights maybe. thats low priority though. NOT NEEDED for first race.

finish plumbing oil cooler lines. NEEDED.

cooling lines need finished. these are really close to being done. NEEDED.

gotta wire in the driver window switch. low priority NOT NEEDED for first race.

gotta take it to get aligned once i am done dicking with the suspension. NEEDED.

and i still have yet to think about limiting the front end. NOT NEEDED for first race.

gotta mount the radiator overflow can, and plumb it in. NEEDED.

need to remake the WG dump tubes and figure out plumbing on the dual WG's. i got some SS flex tube for that. will make the required shape for the dumps, and then tack them into that configuration. NOT NEEDED for first race.

need to finish welding closed all the unused holes on the firewall. NOT NEEDED for first race.

fill trans. drain and fill rear diff. NEEDED.

final mount the AWIC and reservoir and wire the pump for final. DONE!!!

mount harness and final mount seat and seat back brace. NEEDED.

Posted: **Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:06 pm**

pass side of cage is done. did door bar today. will paint that side of the car inside tonight maybe. cage is dark bronze, interior of car is black floor and silver rest of it.

Posted: **Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:28 pm**

Stop showing me cool new paint pictures. Makes me want to paint my car!!

Posted: **Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:40 pm**

Audilard wrote:Show me more cool new paint pictures. Makes me want to paint my car!!

I think this is what you meant to say.

Posted: **Sun Aug 09, 2009 5:26 pm**

Nice work Aaron! Your car looks great, even though it doesn't have to!

Posted: **Sun Aug 09, 2009 6:56 pm**

thanks Mike.... and yeah it did have to look good. it gave some life back into the project seeing it look tits.... i am sure some of the longer term project'ers understand... yeah i coulda gone out all ratty looking, but why? the rabbit both years it premiered all raggedy looking. not so this time

finished up the AWIC reservoir. made the damper pads, mounted it, wired it, done. tested it, flows great.

painted that side of the car as well. roughly anyhow. not perfect....

the sunroof panel is gonna be kinda freaky. its painted body color from the inside, and cleared inside as well. so the lexan shiny outside is the outside of the car. but its gonna give a rose-colored look internally i think. gonna be weird. can paint black over the inside clear to darken it if i need to. still need to make the rearward edge mount. i will go do that now i guess.... dinner is finished.

Posted: **Tue Aug 11, 2009 8:03 pm**

clutch hydro parts came....

and i think that they are gonna work. they do look a tad shorter, but if you notice the dirt line on the stock fitting, they do not need to be that long. they fit tight in the slave and the master with no need for a crush washer. and they are a different shape at the end than the ones Jim (>) got i think.... they have the smooth end with no threads on the end already.

will know when motor is in. you'ns'll be the very first set of people i tell. watch for the DIY Aaron-stylez.....

Posted: **Tue Aug 11, 2009 8:55 pm**

good work man!!
20 more days haha

Posted: **Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:32 pm**

Yeah, those adapters look perfect. Nice find.

Posted: **Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:10 pm**

OH me likey those!

Posted: **Wed Aug 12, 2009 4:19 am**

and i want to say 4 fittings AND 3 lines was $54.xx shipped.

my math says under $30 shipped if you know the exact length you need....

and Lucas, yeah i know it is actually 17 days. it needs to be AT Waterlands on the 18th day from today so that day does not count.

Posted: **Wed Aug 12, 2009 4:45 pm**

ok. so i did some modding to the fitting for the slave. first i chamfered the hole a little, and then i took a little away from the "nut" on the fitting. i was not comfortable with it otherwise.

it did not seem to give me any space between the fitting "nut" and the body of the slave.

mine does now, and i will toss this in the DIY i put up when i test it out.

but this is what i am talking about. now it fits nice and tight, it feels like the flare seats well now.

and whilst searching around, i found a picture of a fitting to take the clip in piece for the plastic bodied slave cyl to -AN fitting. pretty cool. will keep it for reference.....

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.p ... 1219222628

Posted: **Wed Aug 12, 2009 4:51 pm**

Aaron I know braided looks cool, but your car is solid why just do not go metal line??? No flex, les weight easy and cheap to make. And if transmission needs to be pulled leave line long enough to be able slide slave a side.

Posted: **Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:03 pm**

because i like cool shit.... no, but seriously. i do not have flaring tools.... and this was cheap really. and easy to use. no hardline being bent around and stuff.

all i have is the stock line i cut in half knowing i would eventually make something like this. and the stock line is expensive to replace and has the rubber section in it as well....

i took a couple more pix, but i think the line looks good in there....

and i also put a standard old 10mm x 1.0 Speed bleeder there in place of the stock bleeder. will make bleeding it much easier, that and the Motive Powerbleeder... gotta like nice tools that really make life easier.

and that was 18" line if anyone wonders.

Posted: **Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:12 pm**

Ha ha I have made miles and miles of hard line in my life takes me no time it looks like it was factory installed, best tool I ever bought was hydraulic flaring tool, SS is a breeze.

Posted: **Wed Aug 12, 2009 7:34 pm**

updated list, prioritized and structured for needed and wanted.

also made and welded 80% out the driver sill bar. still need that door bar to complete cage. dont want to do that til last last. may not put swing-kit on it this go round either... we will see.

speeding-g60 wrote:NEEDED FOR RACE DAY

driver side door bar needs made. made sill bar today.
fill trans. drain and fill rear diff. anytime
install sunroof panel after rear brace installed. anytime
final mount seat and seat back brace. anytime after door bar
install harness. anytime after door bar

cooling lines need finished. after motor is in for good.
run and terminate the sender units for engine monitoring stuff. after motor is in for good.
finish plumbing oil cooler lines. after motor is in for good.
figure out plumbing on the dual WG's. after motor is in for good.
gotta mount the radiator overflow can, and plumb it in. after motor is in for good.
gotta take it to get aligned once i am done dicking with the suspension after motor is in for good.

Needed, but not necessarily for the big first day

figure out brake lights maybe. thats low priority though.
wire in the driver window switch.
still have yet to think about limiting the front end.
remake the WG dump tubes with SS flex tube for that.
need to finish welding closed all the unused holes on the firewall.

Posted: **Thu Aug 13, 2009 2:20 am**

Swing kit is a pta to put in, I did 6 points of my cage in a 5hr, and then spend another 7-8 hr on a swing bars, they are nice if you need to get in and out on a street do

Posted: **Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:10 pm**

driver side door bar. DONE!!!
install sunroof panel. DONE!!

cage is done. done enough to race anyhow..... did the door bar tonight. may put a gusset under the upper end of door bar like pass side, but will decide door bar swing kit laterz.... and again doing the sunroof brace AFTER the door bar reminds me how much it sucks ballz doing interior work on a caged car :bashtard:

sunroof rear brace in and done. now to mount panel. tonight possibly.

motor is about re-assembled. pick it up and toss it in, i am almost ready to fire it up.

i can almost smell race gas exhaust, its getting close.

Posted: **Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:19 pm**

you should see that fluidampr next monday for sure.

and do me a favor, and figure out the brake lights, lol.

:-D

The Project Pad

Aarons Drag CQ: 3-29 anodized and welded stuff. AN lines