The Project Pad

For those of you that haven't heard of my "build" its a 91 20VTQ. So far the list of improvements is short and the list of problems long.
To date the known issues are:

It needs a radiator- Going with what ever parts geek has and I'll leave it at that because simple

The Fuel lines are rotted away and need to be replaced.
In the process of looking at the fuel lines it has now been determined that the gas tank wall not currently rusted through, shouldn't go back in because of the amount of rust it has. I don't know where i could source one from or that it would be any cheaper than going to a fuel cell. The fuel cell taking the place of the spare tire.
The other issue with going to a fuel cell is that after testing the factory fuel level sender it appears to be that 180ish Ohms is empty and about 40ish is full. So I don't think that a 90 ohm GM sending unit that is usually equipped on some fuel cells will work with the factory wiring or it will "work" just not read correctly on the factory gauge.
So the fix for all this "simple" stuff is mounting into new fuel cell, fuel pump, hard lines, and the plethora of AN fittings needed to complete the plumbing.

The other side of all this is as some of you may know the sure amount of things you have to remove to get to the dam fuel tank to drop it is as follows...EVERY THING.
And now because I have removed the suspension, and at least 1/2 of the drive train now all of the rusted worn out crap there will have to be replaced, all the bushings and bolts.
Why the hell is the front carrier two pieces? why? Also why doesn't the dam drive shaft come apart from the Diff, all the bolts are removed and no amount of bashing/ swearing is freeing the beast. I'm open to suggestions. As far as the exhaust goes that's going to get straight piped though some glass packs no cat's.

So burning questions.
Any one have a factory gas tank that's in good condition? if so how much?
Convert the fuel gauge to 90 ohm or the sender with the factory resistance? Or run an after market fuel gauge the easy way ( I like cheap though)
Drive shaft separation manual any one?
Anything else I'm missing

The car is stock with possibly a chip so says the PO but i doubt it. So i don't need the Full on Race fuel system but at this point I think its going to get it. Thanks all for your input.

Littlegreek on motorgeek has a new 90q radiator he's selling for cheap.

Fuel tank, I think, can be taken from any junkyard quattro b5 a4 if you can't find a b3/4 90. If I'm wrong, ask Littlegreek... he might be willing to pull out the one from his parts 90 for you.

Anyways, welcome to the forum and life with 20+ year old cars

Once you're done and on to the next headache, you'll be happy you've come so far and won't have to retread old ground any time soon.

Pics when you can!

Heat can help with DS removal. Just not too much unless you plan on cleaning and repacking. Heat the diff side, not the DS side.

I think the OP has 200 20v judging by his screen name not a 90q 20v. For a new radiator I recommend a behr not a nissens. autohuasaz has the best price plus free shipping.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/produc ... 443121251K
I think your logic on using a fuelcell instead of finding a good used tank being cheaper is flawed. You can use a gas tank from the c4 a6 up to 98 for avant models and up to 97 for sedans. Look for one from a southern car.

Yodasfro is correct it is a 1991 200 Quattro with the 20VT (3B).

Today I was able to separate the drive shaft, CV's and Diff from each other chaloux

Got the old rusted fuel lines off and made some phone calls to friends in Atlanta who are now on the hunt for a gas tank with scouting info

THANK YOU YODASFRO

will the rear knuckels fit as well from the C4 chassis?

Yes the rear bearing housings are the same only difference would be if you got urs4/6 housings then hubs would have more offset stick with 100/a6 parts and they are the same.

Anything else i should grab of a C4 wall I'm at the Salvage yard?