That's all very good (and relevant) info, thank you.

Love the evolution, your car gets more dialed in with each iteration.

Gonna have to get a ride at some point, may just be the kick in the arse I need to get myself going again

Glad to see things progress.

Honest question, I've asked several folks and have yet to get a consistent answer. I know the obvious benefit of the girdle is to prevent flex, but I've yet to hear a hp figure/range where they become necessary/beneficial? When I was building my stroker Hank said there ...

Great idea with moving the carbon canister to the fender. I didn't particularly like the idea of deleting it but hadn't seen any tidy solutions, until now.

Ultras are sexy as hell, nice score. Personally speaking, I like the wheel fitment to have the rim flush with the edge of the fender. Looks brawny that way and fills out the wheel arches nicely. How do the OZ wheels fit in that regard, what is the ET?

Super cool armrest, I never knew there was an ...

http://www.extremeheatprotection.com/high-temperature-woven-fiberglass-fabric-plain-satin.html

Something like this looks alright... I'd guess basically any fibreglass rated for high heat will do the job nicely. If you were so inclined you could use gold foil to reflect heat away from the airbox ...

Oh boy, that's a nice tactic. Adapting the Sport quattro concept has been on my mind a long while.

Is there ducting into the scuttle panel / rain tray?

Velocity stack?

Gonna be another great project to follow! Looking forward to updates and glad it found the right home.

As an inspector said to me at work one day, "ugly isn't a discontinuity." Keep at it and one day you'll turn that hamburger into neatly stacked dimes!

If it's the same as the Urq (likey) then guys either cut the rad/hood support and add brackets with bolts, or lift the front and drop the subframe/motor underneath the front clip.

Pretty sure Hank's and Martin's build threads show the process for either route.

Dang. Not sure what I hate more, that you're selling or that it's not at an opportune time for me to swoop in.

GLWS.

You can always seal the 1/8" vent holes later, that's no bother. The filler metal will of course be stronger than the base metal.

The bit about cleaning is huge... prep is 80% of the job when welding, unless you screw up or miss something. Then it's 100%.

I'll try to run your issues by a couple of ...

What's the plan for braking upgrades?

Love the project, super cool idea and implementation.

morris400 wrote:Got my meth kit installed, and tested. Just waiting on the tuner now, dyno time should be on thursday.

How'd it go??!?

Car is progressing nicely! What remains to make you feel safe driving around your daughter?

That's badass.

I do have a steam cleaner (or 2) so I'll give it a shot. Not sure how I will reach into all the compartments in the tank, but can't hurt to try right?

Yeah, that's what I meant about making some kind of lance to get into the nooks and crannies. See if you can get some copper tube that will fit ...

If you have access to steam (and a flexible tube you can use as a lance) you could clean the inside of the coolant reservoir like a hot damn. We use steam in refineries to clean anything and everything. Usually make a lance with a ball valve, Swagelock fittings, and insulated tubing.

Other than ...

w00t

That's super cool that Marc is pitching in, you're in good hands.

Would be nice to go for a rip when I'm home on my next furlough, definitely be a kick in the ass (and motivating, to boot)!

Put those seats in the Avant!

Was it the same manufacturer? I could see tolerances being +/- by that amount in the casing/housing just by virtue of different tooling.

Shave the rotor... you know, less rotating mass

When I installed the 323 mm A8 rotors and 986 BoxsterS calipers with RS2 caliper carrier, I needed a 3 mm shim to fit the carrier and then needed to turn about 1-2 mm off the inner radius of the inside of the rotor for clearance.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m621/PRY4SNO/Brilliant%20Black ...

No reason you couldn't, but likely more reasons you shouldn't. Mostly down to being cheap insurance. Pretty sure it's $200 or so for some Ferrea exhaust valves. That's a fair cost for price of mind.

My guess is it's a needle valve for precise metering and being able to throttle the valve over a long period of time. Going CW on the valve narrows the orifice, so the pressure increases. CCW increases the opening, so at a constant volume the pressure decreases.

Nice box, indeed. Issam's the best.

If it were me I'd send it with that pump for now then you can plan the upgrade at your leisure. That pump should be good for plenty of heehaws for now, no? I'd keep the check valve to prevent backsiphoning and maintain line pressure. Can't hurt to have.