The Project Pad

Fixed vid for you…


Also….



Yes, yesssssss, let the hatred flow through you

Mudflaps on. Had to get 12 gauge wire so didn't have time to relay the lights (and the mudflaps were more involved than I thought). Also fixed the small fuel leak by replacing a fitting. Good progress.

themagellan wrote:


Yes, yesssssss, let the hatred flow through you

Haha it's not the first or second time I've had an issue with something being wrong/bad/not fitting. I just won't even bother trying to get it resolved this time. Small and cheap, oh well.

Anyone have any idea why the car would keep making fuel pump relays fail?

I was walking by the car and no more than 20 min later (good thing I came out) I heard the fuel pump going. I just pulled out the relay and all is good. But this is what the other relay was doing. It was just connected and randomly would fail and send constant power to the fuel pump (no key on, car locked, havent even ran the car in days). It has the 034 fuel pump relay kit (with another relay on it now). Anyone have any ideas? Not trying to have this be a continuous thing.

could be a failed driver in the ecu sending a ground to the relay when it shouldn't. test with a multimeter.

Marc wrote:could be a failed driver in the ecu sending a ground to the relay when it shouldn't. test with a multimeter.

Would that still be able to happen with no power to the ECU though? I will get out there and test it tomorrow.

A4V8swap wrote:

Marc wrote:could be a failed driver in the ecu sending a ground to the relay when it shouldn't. test with a multimeter.

Would that still be able to happen with no power to the ECU though? I will get out there and test it tomorrow.

yes.

one symptom of a failed injector driver is it will stick to ground at all times. powered or not.

Marc wrote:

A4V8swap wrote:

Marc wrote:could be a failed driver in the ecu sending a ground to the relay when it shouldn't. test with a multimeter.

Would that still be able to happen with no power to the ECU though? I will get out there and test it tomorrow.

yes.

one symptom of a failed injector driver is it will stick to ground at all times. powered or not.

Ahhh thank you. I will look up how to test the VEMS injector driver. Thank you again.

I also tried another relay and the same result for what its worth.

The best way to diagnose it would be to pull the ECU and test continuity between the fuel pump relay ground pin and an external ECU ground pin. If you have continuity with everything unplugged it's the pump driver in the ECU, I would guess that's a PNP transistor or something similar.

If you don't have continuity there then it's in your wiring somewhere. Good luck!

yep, right on.

if it is the ecu I can repair it.

All sounds good. Thank you for that piece of information. Now to find a 3b ECU pinout.

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_s ... 0vpin.html

No photo update. But I did order some new pieces. Found out that the B3 brake booster I swapped in had a leak, so I bought a rebuilt brake booster online.

Ended up that my valve cover gasket is bad, but not where I expected (cylinder 4 spark plug hole leaks oil horribly), so I ordered a new one. Oil cap was cracked, ordered a new one and seal.

Hated the way I did my vacuum lines, so I am redoing them all. I had these clear vacuum lines and had them set up with all these tees and they ran behind the manifold (and with the VEMS coils mounted there) and it was just messy and shitty. Ordered a vacuum distribution block and will be mounting it by the heater box. I will run my vacuum lines into the grommet there. Ordered all new black silicone vacuum lines also and spring clamps. It will be cleaner and I will be happier.

Ordered some Aerocatch hood pins that I will be installing also.

So basically I should be happy after all that comes in and it is installed. Then it's exhaust work and then tune. I put off dropping it off at the local shop to have an exhaust made because I really want this done.

Also I charged the battery and re-installed the fuel pump relay. No more issues with it turning on. Weird. Maybe this is weird but could low voltage or high temperatures cause it to do it's relay duties on me?

you went through all the work with the IC to make the latch work and now you hoodpin it?!?!?

we could make you a sexy exhaust!!!

my2000apb wrote:you went through all the work with the IC to make the latch work and now you hoodpin it?!?!?

we could make you a sexy exhaust!!!

Haha well I can't figure it out to be honest and I'm over it. I hate the way the latch is setup from the factory. Bought a new cable, posted about it. Just honestly do not get it. I found out that the driver side weird pin thing on the car was blocked by some IC brackets. Trimmed them and swore that would fix it, but it didn't. Then I realized that the bar piece there was bent from touching the IC bracket. Fixed that and still nothing. Oh well.

What would the estimated time be to accomplish that? We could work something out if you'd want to. I could drive/tow it up there sometime soon if you want.

PM'd

Ordered some Aerocatch hood pins that I will be installing also.

Welcome to the club that are now running mage's shadytree half assed mechanical fix suggestions. So happy to have you be part of the family

can't wait to see this beast tuned…. I think your car's goals are exactly in line with mine, and can't wait to see how everything runs for you.


Crazy to think this car was another 10 seconds away from burning completely to the ground, to now running and driving and shooting for 400+wheel.

themagellan wrote:Crazy to think this car was another 10 seconds away from burning completely to the ground, to now running and driving and shooting for 400+wheel.

x2

Photo update.

My AN fittings came in for my catch can. So I mounted/plumbed it up. It's slightly tilted, but oh well. I'll address it later.

It is a vibrant 3" catch can. 6 1/2" NPT fittings on each end, removable cap top and bottom. 2 10AN fittings off the valve cover and partial silicone catch can with a new check valve installed into a barb to connects to the catch can. PTC vacuum fittings with tubing to check oil level. On the bottom of a catch can I got fancy and instead of ripping it off to drain it I installed a drain valve with an AN hose off it that goes by the subframe to drain it. Overkill but I am happy.



Dat drain doe

vt10vt wrote:The best way to diagnose it would be to pull the ECU and test continuity between the fuel pump relay ground pin and an external ECU ground pin. If you have continuity with everything unplugged it's the pump driver in the ECU, I would guess that's a PNP transistor or something similar.

If you don't have continuity there then it's in your wiring somewhere. Good luck!

Okay so I checked the 034 website to figure out where pin 3 went off the ECU. I was kind of confused so I checked continuity from pin 3 to each pin on the relay and got more confused.

Instructions:

http://store.034motorsport.com/docs/C4S ... 20Docs.pdf


Followed this for the install.

Off the SPST relay I have

pin 85: BLK 166 ohms
pin 86: Grn/Ylw 248 ohms
pin 30: RED 166 ohms
pin 87: inf.

I figured only one pin would show continuity and the rest would be infinite, no?

The problem now constantly exists. As soon as I plug a relay in no matter what the fuel pump runs. My whole low charge/high temp weird theory isn't true since the battery is freshly charged. I am going to assume off this that the injector driver is bad, no?

I dont know vems as well as a lot of others but not sure which pins youre looking at. Google vems pin out (and ideally your specific ecu model if you know) but from my quick search it seems pin 15 of the big connector is consistently the fuel pump relay. The injector drivers have nothing to do with the fuel pump driver. The pump driver has its own circuit triggered by the cpu when it sees rpm signals.

It seems to me pin 26 of that same connector is a good bet for an ecu ground so check 15-26. It should either be open (0ohm) or infinite ie no continuity.

There is essentially a small relay in the ecu that grounds the fuel pump relay. The driver in the ecu opens a path from pin 15 to the ecu's internal ground plane, so if you unplug the vems unit and have continuity between these pins it means that driver is leaving the path from the fuel pump relay open to ground thus running the pump constantly.

vt10vt wrote:I dont know vems as well as a lot of others but not sure which pins youre looking at. Google vems pin out (and ideally your specific ecu model if you know) but from my quick search it seems pin 15 of the big connector is consistently the fuel pump relay. The injector drivers have nothing to do with the fuel pump driver. The pump driver has its own circuit triggered by the cpu when it sees rpm signals.

It seems to me pin 26 of that same connector is a good bet for an ecu ground so check 15-26. It should either be open (0ohm) or infinite ie no continuity.

There is essentially a small relay in the ecu that grounds the fuel pump relay. The driver in the ecu opens a path from pin 15 to the ecu's internal ground plane, so if you unplug the vems unit and have continuity between these pins it means that driver is leaving the path from the fuel pump relay open to ground thus running the
pump constantly.

It's a PnP so its the same as a 3b 200. That's why I was using Pin3 off the engine harness side. The Pin numbers I was referring to are off the relay by the battery for the fuel pump.

Okay so I will start with pin 15 this time and check for continuity. I see pin 15 being injector number 3 signal though on SJM?

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_s ... 0vpin.html

Wait yeah I was looking at a universal vems diagram. You should be using the 3b pin out if the vems ecu plugs straight into the 3b harness without needing a jumper harness

A4V8swap wrote:

vt10vt wrote:I dont know vems as well as a lot of others but not sure which pins youre looking at. Google vems pin out (and ideally your specific ecu model if you know) but from my quick search it seems pin 15 of the big connector is consistently the fuel pump relay. The injector drivers have nothing to do with the fuel pump driver. The pump driver has its own circuit triggered by the cpu when it sees rpm signals.

It seems to me pin 26 of that same connector is a good bet for an ecu ground so check 15-26. It should either be open (0ohm) or infinite ie no continuity.

There is essentially a small relay in the ecu that grounds the fuel pump relay. The driver in the ecu opens a path from pin 15 to the ecu's internal ground plane, so if you unplug the vems unit and have continuity between these pins it means that driver is leaving the path from the fuel pump relay open to ground thus running the
pump constantly.

It's a PnP so its the same as a 3b 200. That's why I was using Pin3 off the engine harness side. The Pin numbers I was referring to are off the relay by the battery for the fuel pump.

Okay so I will start with pin 15 this time and check for continuity. I see pin 15 being injector number 3 signal though on SJM?

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_s ... 0vpin.html

Pins 2-3 of a PnP 3b vems ecu should do the trick

Loaded up on the tow truck on her way to EFI express.

Car was sent to Marc @ EFI. Fuel pump issue fixed already. Exhaust and getting tuned next getting done now. Pretty excited and thanks again to Marc. Great guy.