The Project Pad

why does the subframe NEED to be removable? a'la Hapster.

i can send you min that are cut lol

How much you hack? Happen to have any pics?


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Ok. So we got a motor bolted to a trans. Trans mounted in the car. And the motor dangling from the hoist. I'm doing my best to photo document what I haven't already read on here as I go.

First off. If you keep the stock tie rods in this chassis....b3...I don't see how the vacuum pump will be able to stay on the motor. I have the tie rods modified to be on top of the rack. And I'm still pretty tight here.


Not sure if I'll keep it or ditch it at this point. But it's looking like it'll have to go you can slide perhaps 3 or 4 pieces of paper in there but no more. I was going to modify the tie rods regardless this build so I may see if I can make it all fit.

Second. Space I'm front. I bolted back up what I had made for the VRT setup. And it does seem as if there is a bit more room between the engine and the radiator. And with the accessory belt being set back off the crank pulley versus it sticking out like on the vr. I may be able to get a fan in there to pull the air through the rad versus 2 smaller fans pushing the air from the other side as was intended with the VRT.


The subframe has already been cut and welded some to give more clearance when the vr was in there. But it still certainly won't be enough for this motor as you can see. Do I think I can make it work? Probably with some more subframe modifications. But I forgot to measure the ground clearance I would have IF I hacked and dropped the subframe to accommodate the stock pan setup.




Other then they. We got some mount plates all ready to be water jetted and then hopefully I'll have some much needed parts here this week from the small chassis 07k pioneer himself Hank.







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so thats a late block? you have the 2 pressure sensors and the oil valve below it?

4kq tie rods are close but do clear the vac pump. Thats 01e hank trans mounts shoved back all the way and no spacer on a 4kq prop shaft

Yes that's a late block. And I thought that the 4k tie rods were a different setup...lucky. Can't push this thing back further due to the pump. Can't go forward cause it'll make the front end too tight.

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Few questions for you since you've done the swap. How level is your motor? Left side is front of car right side is rear.


Clearance for the hood on the belt side of the motor? What about on the chain side?



And. Idk how. But a starter will be there somewhere sometime. Looks like I'll need a die grinder for starters.


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I'm watching with interest.

Question on the factory oil pan: Is it entirely because of space constraints that an Iroz pan is necessary or are there also baffle/pickup/sump concerns over changing the angle of the engine 90*?

vt10vt wrote:I'm watching with interest.

Question on the factory oil pan: Is it entirely because of space constraints that an Iroz pan is necessary or are there also baffle/pickup/sump concerns over changing the angle of the engine 90*?

space, is certainly and issue. The oil pump pickup being turned is down further down on my list of issues

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maybe hank can chime in. my car is nowhere near on level ground right now

In regards to the pickup being an issue. The vr6 wasn't meant to be mounted longitudinal either. And I haven't heard of any oiling issues with those motors in audi chassis. In the end obviously just bolting an oil pan on is much less involved then cutting and rebuilding part of a subframe no matter how you look at it. I'm 50 percent done with mine here, hope to finish it up tomorrow or the weekend and then I will post pics once it's completed.

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So. Here's some terrible pics of the sub frame process here.






The piece of wood is straight relative to the bottom of the 2by3 tubing. The idea is to chop that tubing and make it 1by3 so it tucks up a bit more. After that it should all clear just fine.

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Got the subframe done tonight. Just need to finish welding parts of it. Welds aren't beautiful. Design isn't beautiful. But it fits. And so does the motor with the stock pan setup.




Enough room to slide my hand in there on the passenger side. Which is the tightest spot on these motors. The drivers side has even more room.


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Really exciting to see an 07k swap without waiting 6mo for a $1k oil pan, makes it much more appealing as a prospective swap.

Nice job!!

Zerb wrote:

vt10vt wrote:I'm watching with interest.

Question on the factory oil pan: Is it entirely because of space constraints that an Iroz pan is necessary or are there also baffle/pickup/sump concerns over changing the angle of the engine 90*?

space, is certainly and issue. The oil pump pickup being turned is down further down on my list of issues

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This is kind of what I was thinking, especially with how people flip VR's without issue all the time, but Hank was talking about oiling issues but I guess that's probably a problem with the design of the Iroz pan

the more i look at this picture the more i wish i triangle slotted the tubing and then bent it to the angle it needed, seam welded it, chopped it for the angle to meet the subframe, and welded that, it would have looked much cleaner and probably been a bit stronger too. oh well.

Looks good, can't wait to see what you do with this lump.

6 months? sign me up!

So. Got some pieces from the waterjet for my aluminum thermostat housing setup and the flange off the head as well.

Everything fits up well. Including on the car. Will need to trim a bit of the back of the accessory bracket for the water pump feed tube. Other then that we should be good to go.






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Love some custom fab... keep it up.

So. Idk if I mentioned it above. But I finally bought a tig welder. Picked up the eastwood tig 200. Seemed like it was a pretty good starter machine so I went for it. Never pushed a torch before in my life so if this shit looks awful, that's why. Enjoy.




This was a practice bead yesterday after I got a gas lens setup on the torch.


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What gas lens setup did you get? I've got the Eastwood too, but have only messed with steel on the stock torch. Need to pick up some SS and Al filler.

i got the stubby gas lens kit from USA weld. seems like a nice product. thats where i bought my filler rod and tungsten from also. i was going to get that from McMaster Carr, but once i saw the prices at USA weld it was no contest.

Got some motor mount stuff done this evening. Ran out of gas. Went to store and got a bottle. Came back. Welded some more. Ran out of wire. Tomorrow I shall finish.





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And. We have a motor bolted in and mucho fabricationo shall commence shortly.

This is obviously not the final rendition. I will grind down and round out the edges on the ends there.






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